Ford Excursion :: How Long Does Vehicle Sit Without Driving It
Sep 4, 2013
I love my Rig, however I wish I had more time to drive the Beast. My Ex sits at home about 90% of the time patiently waiting for it's next assignment. Service is reserved for family trips, once in awhile light duty towing, occasional date nights with other couples, loading up the kids & their friends to get ice cream, etc. I have other vehicles for my daily driver.
Curious to see how often other Ex DIESEL owners drive their rigs and what the average time the truck sits vs. being used. I'd rather drive the truck than let it idle for 1/2 hr.
My Truck has the 7.3 so, to keep the Diesel happy I don't drive it less than 20 miles when it does move. Diesel motor experts agree that driving a diesel less than 4 miles roundtrip is not good for the motor because the engine has not had time to reach full operating Temp. About to roll 260,000 and that 7.3 motor seems like it's just starting to get broken in.
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I have a 2000 X 7.3 diesel with under 100,000 miles. I drive it about 10,000 miles a year, all towing. However it does get used everyday driving a student to the bus, a distance of about 10 blocks. There is an engine block heater which I use all winter but the engine never warms up on the ten block run. I do service the engine twice a year, every six months. What damage am I doing and what can I do to prevent any damage?
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I am going on vacation in May and am curious how long the C can sit if it's not started or driven? I have read that it can drain or possibly damage the battery from sitting to long, so just how long is o.k.? It seems like a pain to have to find someone to start up or drive the car while on vacation.
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I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. Manual transmission.
For the past two days, once the vehicle has been running long enough to get hot, it becomes really difficult to shift. I think I'm losing the clutch pedal. For example, when in first gear stopped at a traffic light, the car will stall out with the clutch engaged (as if the clutch weren't pressed down.) With the car moving, it's physically very hard to move the gear shift.
Topped off the break/clutch master cylinder fluid, and it seems ok. Also took a look at the transmission fluid, and it is not low.
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2003 Excursion 4wd. Noticed a few days ago that when selecting reverse, it seemed to take longer to actually go into gear. Didn't think much of it and it has been fine since. Pulled the camper a few hours away for the weekend..
Now the truck is slow to engage reverse. Even when warm, when I put it in Reverse, it takes up to 30 seconds or so for it to 'catch'. I checked fluid and it's ok. Shifter feels ok. Fwd gears are fine?
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It reached 93 here today and it has always taken too long for my AC to reach a cool temperature. I have never had the AUTO setting slow the fan down even at highway speeds. I am moving to TX in the next few months and I already know what it is like driving it down there...HOT! I could really like improving the efficiency of the AC of my Ex.
Can I use the same insulation used for home AC lines on the truck? Is there any high-temp insulation I could fun over the lines? I found a coolant shut-off valve for the heater core on 7.3 trucks, but not for the 6.0. Is there an equivalent for us with the 6.0?
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I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
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Ok. So. 2005 excursion v10 270k miles. Never ever had an issue starting. Today it was about 30 degrees in Detroit. Had to crank for about 4 seconds. Usually it turns over within one second of cranking. So I get to work and hook up a fuel pressure tester to it. Got to 35psi while running, upon shutting off it dropped to 0 within 30 seconds. I have no codes. And absolutely no drive ability issues. No gas smell. And I'm really hoping its just z fuel pump check valve cause then I can just prime it by doing key on key off then crank...also hoping not injector cause I won't be able to pull the injectors till Sunday snd I really don't wanna hydro lock my motor >.< best way to test injector/fuel pump valve? I like to fix issues as soon as they pop up. Wanna get my v10 to 400k.
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Recently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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I have a shake at 60-78 mph. Have had the tires balanced three times, last balance is beter. I'm thinking of switching the wheels from my 05 F250 to the 03 Excursion to verify a tire problem. Will the factory F250 17" wheels fit for the test? Both are 4x4 vehicles. The truck rides smooth.
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I just got an Ex and am going to take it out next weekend and am trying to get it all squared away. What I am wondering is if there is a way to program it so all the doors unlock when shutting off the vehicle. Currently the drivers door will but I have to hit the unlock button to let everyone else out.
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Went for a drive last night in my "new" 2002, 4wd and which brought up some newbe excursion owner questions. First of all it has 95,000 miles on it and it is a V10. I noticed a clunk sound from the back of vehicle intermittently. u joints?, rear springs? or rear end?
Noticed that the front springs looked like they were sagging, is this normal or do I have an excuse to lift it? Also the shocks appear to be the original units and I figure that they are going to be on their way out. In the past I had good results with KYB gas-a just on a old F250 2wd.
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I am going to compile a List of Parts for swapping a manual transmission into an diesel Excursion. My search for the ideal vehicle has not been fruitful to any degree...I would like an F350 (or comparable with a stick) but the wife doesn't want a "truck"....and the only kind of vehicles I like to drive, are vehicles with a manual transmission...
I would be lying if I didn't call it an obsession.....but that is just the way I am wired. So the wife likes the Excursions....and I like the manual trans.....so I figured since the Excursion and the F250 and F350 are built on the same basic frame/body the swap would be "easy". Enough of that, my initial list looks something like this:
Transmission
Manual Trans Crossmember
Transfer Case (is it different between the auto and manual trucks?)
Clutch/Flywheel Assy
Pedal Assy
Slave Cyl/Master Cyl and plumbing
Dash Gauge cluster from a manual trans truck(without the Automatic Gear Select Display)
Steering Column from a manual trans truck
Shifter and Shifter boot
Wiring Harness for manual trans(?)
What else?
My "theory" is that all of the parts will be "bolt in". Besides the fact that this would be a serious undertaking, what problems could I expect?
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My 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
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99 F-150 V8 - During mountain driving after a long downhill I get a cloud of smoke when I get back on the gas. Appears to be darker smoke not oil like blue smoke. Only other issue I have with the truck is an occasional cloud of blue smoke when I start it which I believe is just aging valve seals. What is causing the cloud of smoke after a downhill?
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The leather on my steering wheel is showing a lot of wear so I will be needing a new one soon. I was curious if the new F250 steering wheels would fit a 2005 EX? I like the style of 2009, 2010 & 2011 much better that the stock wheel in 2005.
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When I turn off my Ex, the drivers door unlocks automatically, but the other doors remain locked. Is there a way to program it so that all doors unlock automatically?
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Our excursion usually sits unless we are towing or need to haul a group of people. The past three days my wife has been using it as a commuter. Yesterday she told me that two times at start-up she has heard a loud clunk/thump sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. At first she thought it was happening when she engaged the brake to put it in drive. Today she called me and told me the sound came just after start-up while the vehicle was warming up before the brake was applied. What this could be? I wish I would have observed it so I could give more details.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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Started having a key issue: while in the car, intermittently, get a "key out" error with accompanying long beep as if you walked away with car running. This happened while driving. Changed the battery (key fob-keyless limited elantra 2011) but still did it. Not all the time, unpredictable. Got 90k miles, and not a covered entity per dealer...yes, not a power train component.
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