Ford Excursion :: Horn Got Stuck On
Sep 14, 2014
I went to drive my truck last night and when I started it up somehow the horn got stuck on. The Ford emblem in the steering wheel has come off before and I think some of the tabs that hold the emblem in place are floating around behind the horn cover. How do I take it apart and short term, where do I find the horn under the hood to disconnect it?
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Recently my car horn became stuck in the on position even though I was not driving the car or using the horn. In fact, it got stuck in the middle of the night!! To stop the horn, I simply removed the fuse for the horn, but I was curious what sort of issue would cause this problem and what should be done to fix it.
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My daughter's 2004 F150 has a horn problem. She used it the other day and it would not stop blowing. Someone unplugged it for her. When I checked it out and re-plugged it in it still continues to blow. Question is where do I begin. Does this have a horn relay? Do I have to remove the air bag to access the connections under the pad? I own a 1985 F150 and mine is much simpler.
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Or to put it another way - Yet another Hadley air horn installation. First up made a mounting bracket for the horns......to mount them on the frame.Then another bracket to mount the air tank, wiring and compressor. Finally fitted an illuminated switch to change from OEM horns to the Hadleys. This switch illuminates dimly with the parking lights and brighter when switched to the Hadleys.
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What is the location of this? It's fuse 37. But it's neither under the steering wheel, or drivers side engine compartment....
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My horn isn't working. The under-dash fuse is OK and was going to check the horn relay, but can't figure out which one it is despite numerous FTE and Google searches. I pulled the cover on 2 power distribution boxes under the hood, driver's side. One box has 2 relays. The other has 4. Which one controls the horn?
Then...how do I test it to see if it's good/bad?
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Many of you said it was the "ClockSpring" that needed to be replaced. But I already did that. A brand new clockspring on it. The horn only blows when the engine is off and when the engine is on the horn and Curse Control don't work. I have a 2001 Excursion. So What could the problem be? It works with the keyless remote. But just when you driving down the street and some bone head cut you off you can't just it.
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Weirdest thing happened this morning. I went to start the car and the horn was immediately on. I figured maybe the steering wheel was stuck. Anyways it went for a bit then while I was on the highway it came on and stayed on. People were looking while I'm going 60mph with the horn blasting. Anyways it went off on its own. I checked the fuse today and it is blown. I no longer have a horn. Why this happened? I will take the steering wheel off tomorrow to check the grounds.
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I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 ... .. A few months back the horn started sounding on its' own in the night, so I pulled the fuse... .. Then the Cruise Control stopped working. I have googled references to clockspring failure and these problems... ..
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I have a 2003 V12 Phaeton with 50k miles. Wonderful car to drive but unending series of electrical and mechanical problems. On FM, the sound completely stopped. The receiver seems to be working since all radio stations are displayed on the screen. But there is no sound. AM and CD both work. The dealer took a look and told me that they couldn't pinpoint the problem and that I would have to replace the entire entertainment console.
Unrelated but also annoying, all within the last month: the horn stopped working (dealer can't figure out why), one of the windshield wipers stuck in the up position, drainage canals plugged resulting in backseat flooding after a heavy rain that shorted electrical connections in rear seat (the dealer said this was a widespread "design defect" in Phaetons and Audi A8's) and front passenger seat heater shorted burning a hole in the leather (and, almost, my wife's rear).
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My 2005 Diesel Excursion is stuck in 4 low. I have tried suggestions in manual but it did not work.
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Was pulling a trailer with a large tractor and had switched the 01 7.3 Ex with 300k miles to 4WD with the switch on the dash. All was fine till I tried to switch back to 2WD.
Then it sounded like I hit some rumble strips a few times and then a constant shake/rumble till I switched it back to 4WD Hi and all was fine as far as the rumble strip feel.
Also, I tried to Manual maneuver the hubs and they are unmovable, but that has always been the case since I got it at 140k miles. I rarely use 4wd so this is a whole new arena for me.
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2002 7.3 liter. I tried to change my fuel filter, but the cap is stuck. I completely striped the socket on top of it. How to remove it? I tried Chanel locks.... It won't budge.
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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So after confirming that my Ex was in 2wd (dash switch) with no 4x4 light on gage cluster it still was in 4H. So I took it to the dealer and they managed to get it stuck in 4 Low and now it won't go into any gear but 4x4 Low. Definitely a transfer case problem but I ended up driving it home at 20 MPH. 119K on truck.
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This piece just blew all the coolant out of my vehicle. Pulled it off and headed to the parts store.
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I tried starting up the Ex last night and it would not stay running unless I pressed on the gas and once I let go of the gas it would die. It had been pretty cold in Austin the last few days and I hadn't driven the Ex since Sunday.
So today I went to start it just now after it warmed up pretty good and the sun has been out. It would not start on key crank alone, I had to hit the gas but once I hit the gas it would stay running so I left it running for a few minutes then turned it off then waited a few minutes and turned it back on with the key alone and now it starts without needing to press the gas!
Is this just a product of the cold weather, was the IAC Valve froze stuck? Is that something I'd never have to worry about in the summer?
Should I clean the IAC? If so what cleaner recommended? Should I replace it? Will happen again after a cleaning?
I was super bummed when it would not start last night but I'm glad it's running again! I'm sure towing this beast would be expensive if I got stranded somewhere else but home.
In my searching for this problem I found a guy with a different car who said he had to keep both feet on the gas and brake (which was dangerous he said) but was the only way to get it home without paying for a tow truck.
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Ok, I have capped off the vacuum lines to the front hubs and replaced the vacuum solenoid on the passenger inner fender. Still stuck on defrost. I know there are several options from this point what would be the next step after what I have just recently done. Going away on a ski trip and would like to have it working properly before I go.
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I think I have a stuck/sticky caliper. I am getting some squealing while under way after braking. It will fade away after a little while, but it it's bad enough where a friend left a message saying he could hear me coming...
I am also getting a shudder when braking at certain speeds (from @ 20-30 mph).
I replaced my front rotors @ 40k miles/4 yrs ago w/ PowerSlot Cryo's & Hawks LTS pads on all 4 wheels. I greased the pins at the time on the original calipers ('04 4wd 6.0 X w/ 105k miles now). The brakes have been great since, but the squealing/shudder started this spring.
Is it likely I need to replace the whole caliper, or can I get away with a pin kit? I want to order all the parts and be ready to do a weekend job.
Could the shudder be from the caliper, or is it likely i need to turn the front rotors? I'm planning to put new rear rotors on & new Hawk LTS pads all around again at the same time as dealing with the caliper. What rear rotors &/or calipers to get? I'd like to spend a bit less on the rear rotors vs the Powerslots.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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Looks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
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