Ford Excursion :: Hooking Up Auxiliary Battery On Trailer?
Feb 28, 2012
I am putting a winch on my trailer and I got an optima marine battery to run the winch. I would like to wire it into my trailer wiring so that it will charge off the truck while its running, but so that it won't draw off the truck's wiring while I'm winching... I'm worried about the size of the wire and the fuse on the factory hitch wiring. I'm probably not going to be doing any extended winching, just pulling things up on the trailer. I may just unhook it from the wiring whenever I'm winching?
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Does the Excursion charge the battery on my travel trailer while driving? I never boondocks but have a new electric tongue jack and wonder about that. I know it charges with a shore line I just assumed it did while driving too.
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What is the color wire coming out of the fuse box for the Trailer Tow Battery Charge? It's number 115 in the fuse box and a 20amp FMX fuse I believe. It's a 2005 6.0l 2WD Eddie Bower Excursion...
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I like the looks and ease of adding on circuits. Just haven't found the best place 5 put it. Mounting one of these in the cabin? I want to hook up my mirrors, dash cam, and future add ons without a nasty pile of wires hanging from the original fuse box.
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I have a 2008 Prius and have been thinking I should be changing the auxilliary battery soon as a preventative measure. I've changed plenty of batteries in other vehicles before but I was wondering if there's anything that's much different in these cars that I should be aware of?
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I left my car for a week in the garage and the battery ran down. I had it re-charged but now even running the radio for a ten minutes with engine off runs down the 12v. The panel check says that its charge is over 12.4 v. What is going on? How do I prevent having to jump start the car every day or so even after running for 20+ miles at freeway speeds?
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I bought an '01 prius with more than 160,000 miles last year , until now it's been a great car , averaging 46-ish mpg , now , a couple days ago I used it to jump-start a diesel truck connecting the cables directly to the auxiliary battery , the truck started after a 2 or 3 mins, the next day the known red triangle and the red car with the (!) appeared , the dealer reads code p3009 (hv leak) but were not able to give me any subcodes. Is it possible that the computer interpreted the sudden "pull" of current from the converter (via the 12v battery) as a hv leak ?
I got the reading of the 19 modules of the traction battery and all are within 0.5 volts of each other , so I hope they are all within tolerance , and the car seems to run just fine.
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I recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
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I just bought a certified 2010 Prius and have had it for 3 months now. Twice within one month, there was absolutely no power to start the car because the aux battery went dead overnight. I'm pretty sure I didn't leave any lights on and don't think I did anything differently when exiting the car for those 2 times. I took it into the dealership, and they couldn't find anything wrong. They said the battery was good. What is draining the battery overnight?
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My dad's 2004 Prius start despite the auxiliary battery being fully charged. No lights come up on the dash, except for the door ajar light and the blinkers when the car is locked with the key fob. Also, we cannot scan any codes because the car doesn't power on at all.
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Hooked up the trailer today for the first time, i have running lights, right turn signal, and no left blinker. left bulb looks good. dual filament. #6 fuse inside truck looks good, can't figure out why no left blinker... trailer worked fine on my previous truck. Not sure what to tackle next..
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Jumped into the Prius this morning to discover dash lights working, no radio etc so vehicle would not turn on. Replaced the auxiliary battery (about 5 years old.) Now all dash light, radio etc are looking great BUT:
- Enngine will not engage
- Message stating Check Hybrid System
- Various waning lights on dash (yellow waning triangle, swerve icon on left)(battery, brake, chech engine, steering wheel?) and abs!!!on the right)
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Inconsistent connection through 7 wire plug and no taillights on four wire plug.
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Last week we were camping, the site we were on had a downhill slope to it. Since I had to reverse and align my trailer with the hookups I remember hearing something on here about putting it in 4WD before trying to reverse up hill. As I did this and slowly reversed I started getting smoke, nice and white with a little bit of a burnt smell to it but not bad. There was also some slightly mucous liquid on the ground that had almost no smell and a slight red tint to it. I freaked out thinking my transmission was shot but after reparking (doing a loop and staying in drive) there were no more leaks/drops and issues. I've driven another 500 miles since then and notice no difference shifting. How to avoid it
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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I left the key on and drained my auxiliary battery(It was weak before) and when I jumped it it started and then shut off after ~20 seconds. I tried various different things and all I succeeded in doing was draining my HV battery from starting it so many times. So I disassembled the pack and recharged it and now it starts and runs but it is misfiring. It throwing 4 codes:
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1305: Ignition Coil 2 Primary Feedback Circuit
I inspected the igniters and plugs and they seem to be OK and I'm not sure where to look next. I'm not sure if the battery issue is related or not but I did replace the auxiliary battery.
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I bought a new auxiliary battery online and installed it. I reset the driver's side power window. But my CD changer now beeps four times, all the lights turn green and orange, and I cannot play a CD from the changer or eject any of the discs. Both discs currently stuck in it are store bought Third Eye Blind CDs with no stickers, labels, etc.
I'm assuming that the CD player needs to be reset. Someone in another thread mentioned unplugging the battery for 20 seconds, while someone else said I need to enter a code that I can get from the dealer. I can go without the changer but the beeping is maddening.
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2000 7.3 180,000 miles. It sounded like I was in passing gear from the turbo but not as loud or strong. The tach never moved like it would if it was in passing gear. We kicked it in and out of overdrive, pushed the O/D, no change. Then while driving it would just go quite/back to normal. Oh forgot, this was while pulling a cargo trailer with a total weight of about 4,500 lbs...
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2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
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So I finally towed our new to us travel trailer home tonight and the spot I created at my house to park it in required a lot of backing to get it shoe-horned in its place. As I was almost finished I smelled a burning smell and my wife said she saw some smoke from under the hood. I had neglected to look at my newly installed trans temp gauge during all the maneuvering as I was watching my mirror and the trailer so closely.
The gauge had reached ~180F and it was only about 55F outside. I know this violated the ambient plus 100 rule, so I allowed it to idle and cool down to 140 or less. When I got the trailer unhooked and the Ex back in the garage I crawled under it and the smell was definitely burnt tranny fluid and it was coming from the front of the bell housing or the access hole for the torque converter, not 100% sure.
So my question is, have I toasted my tranny, or was it just a mild overheat situation and it will recover just fine? If I am towing and the trans temp gets above 180 again will it start leaking most likely? Is it just something like a pump seal that I could drop the tranny and replace relatively easily, or have I most likely done internal damage. Hoping I did not just cost myself a tranny build on a truck with only 73k miles :-(.
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My park lamp circuit is dead. I have tested with a multi-meter and there IS power at the fuse. However, no power at the plug. I have pulled the bumper and found the plug for both the rear taillights (the park lamp circuit WORKS in the taillights) and the trailer wires. Confirmed it is dead there as well.
Both bundles go into the frame rail at the fuel tank, but I not sure which is which where it comes out at the firewall. A web search did not reveal a diagram and the Ford repair CD I have does not list Excursion diagrams.
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