Ford Excursion :: Hesitates For A Few Seconds Then Goes Into Gear When Put It In Reverse
Jan 1, 2013
My transmission has started acting weird. When it's cold it seems to be not as bad. First thing is when I put it in reverse it hesitates for a few seconds then goes into gear. Second it will drive great then just out of no where start shifting very hard then go back to shifting smooth again. Third when pulling a load it won't always start in 1st gear when you come to a complete stop sometimes it tries to start off in 4th.
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When cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
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2003 Excursion 4wd. Noticed a few days ago that when selecting reverse, it seemed to take longer to actually go into gear. Didn't think much of it and it has been fine since. Pulled the camper a few hours away for the weekend..
Now the truck is slow to engage reverse. Even when warm, when I put it in Reverse, it takes up to 30 seconds or so for it to 'catch'. I checked fluid and it's ok. Shifter feels ok. Fwd gears are fine?
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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2001 7.3L I purchased used with 200K on it. Trans hesitates going from 1st to reverse and reverse to 1st. It seems more pronounced going from 1st to reverse. Fluid is clean.
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I have a 2011 super duty with the 6.2 flex. When shifting into reverse, it hesitates, then slams into reverse. Same on the lower gears when driving. This doesn't occur all the time, but the majority. Been talking to a couple other super duty owners (diesel owners) who have been having the same prob, but not as severe. We all have noticed the prob after having charcoal filter replaced. Is this a tranny issue or computer issue?
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My 2004 CRV sometimes hesitates to start and twice now has stalled seconds after starting. When driving it feels as if it is dragging, like the brake is on or the car is in wrong gear (automatic). I just got a new battery a month ago. Mileage is 197K. I am told it could be the starter or alternator and that it will be costly. Could this be the problem or could it be something else?
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I've got a 2000 Excursion V10. Love it. I bought it, though, with 170k miles on it and I'm going through it and fixing what needs to be fixed.
Looking at the tranny, I can't tell if it needs attention or not. It drives fine, takes off, cruises, all that. The only thing is, when driving I'm going along in 4th, if I let off the gas and then lightly get back on, it'll kind of hesitate. You hear the engine rev up for a split second, then the transmission grabs and the rpms drop back down to normal. Note, the rpms never rev more than 2 or 3 hundred rpm before it grabs again.
The fluid looks red and doesn't smell burned or anything. I just wanna know if I need to start saving my money for a rebuild or not. Also, when the time comes, need to know about Monster transmissions? I plan to buy a reman'd 4R100 from them when the time comes.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
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I have an 05 F 250 super duty with the Triton in it. When I shift either into overdrive or reverse the transmission hesitates (does not go into either gear for about 5 to 10 seconds). After that it engages and it's fine. It does not appear to be slipping or acting up regardless of temperature or speed. Sometimes it will sort of engage and than bang into gear solid. I do not have any check engine lights. Not sure if the PCM has any codes. So I'm trying to figure out if I need to have a complete rebuild or if I have a valve / solenoid body problem Where do I start?
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My wife says our 2002 Grand Jeep Cherokee very rarely hesitates as it moves from first to second gear (once every week at most). I've never felt the problem, but she says its happens when from a dead stop into 2nd gear. And she said there are no other times when the vehicle hesitates (fine in every other gear). No other weird noises and the power seems fine. Its an automatic transmission and I've had the fluid and filter changed recently. What it is? Transmission? It is due for some new spark plugs... any chance it could be that?
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I have a 2007 Volkswagen Jetta MKIV with an automatic 4 speed transmission (m01), and the car has only 100,000 kms on it, was always maintained either by myself or at the dealer, and never abused...ever!. Recently, I noticed that the transmission, going from 2nd to 3rd gear (and only 2nd to 3rd gear) will only sometimes hesitate...meaning the engine either revs a little bit (about 100rpm...yes one hundred) right before it changes gear, or if I'm going up-hill and it happens, it struggles to find the gear from 2nd to 3rd. However, this does not happen all the time, in fact, if someone who may not be as informed about cars, drove the car, the may never notice it. I checked with VCDS and no fault codes for transmission, only 2 fault codes from the engine misfiring because I sprayed the engine bay with water a while ago, and water accumulated in the dizzy.
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1997 licoln continental, automatic. Around first and second gear, the car hesitates to pull and will 'jerk'. While it's doing this the car can be revved unsynchronized as it will try to 'jerk' it's way past around 1st and 2nd gear. Eventually, it smooths out after it's into 3rd gear and drives normally though after roughly getting through 1st and 2nd.
In 1st and 2nd gear, if the gas is let off for a bit before smoothing out.. it will often sometimes completely come out of gear, not pulling from any power given. If it does, after popping out of gear the car will not go back into gear, even from a complete stop from 'park' then trying to put it back into 'drive'..no response to power given. However, it goes back into gear just fine, roughly again, if you turn the car completely off and put it back into 'drive'. Obviously, the car also will hesitate even worse on an incline from a dead stop.
Another note, there is a slight wobble to the crankshaft pulley.. though, i feel this issue is completely unrelated to a harmonic balancer noting that the car just pops out of gear and goes back in gear just fine when it is turned back off then back on.....but, not unless the car is completely turned off?What would the obvious culprit be...? Torque converter?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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I got my first truck about a months ago 2001 ford f150 v8 5.4.. has 155,000 seems to run good.. but about 3 days ago i started to notice that when I am in my driveway ill start it let it idle for say a min or so... then when I go to put it in reverse it will idle up for a lil bit.. it didn't do that till about 3-4 days ago.. other them that everything is fine.. should i get the transmission fluid flushed??
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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Well it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
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1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
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My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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