Ford Excursion :: Hard Upshift Until Shut Off And Restarted?
Apr 6, 2013
Took a little trip today in our 01 v10 2wd. Spent about 45 minutes on the interstate. At 1 point I had kicked it down out of od to get out around a slow semi. The trans seamed to upshift real hard. I thought it was odd but didnt give it much more thought. After getting off the interstate we traveled on divided 4 lane highway. Every time we pulled off from a stop the trans would upshift hard from 1-2 and 2-3, rest of the shifts felt fine. We stopped (shut off and went inside) to pick up lunch and the hard shift was really worrying me.
After our stop we continued on with the trip. The trans shifted flawlessly the rest of the day. OD light didn't flash and MIL did not come on. Bought in February with 168k, now has 169k. Did all services including trans flush with Merc 5 fluid when I got it. I know you cant fix what isn't broke but if I can do some thing now before it poops out all together I want to try. Not towing, just passengers...
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I just got a new 2016 Prius c 4, and I love it so far! This is also the first car I've owned under my own name, as I've mostly lived near public transportation and borrowed cars up until now. In other words, I'm a bit of newbie when it comes to the Prius and cars in general...
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Well over the past few weeks, the ABS light has come on but went off after I restarted the truck. Well now it is on full time. Dealer wants $85 just to read it. Any place to read ABS codes? If it doesn't show in my sig, it's a 2000 V10 4x4.
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic 4 door DX.
In 2011 at intersections, the car unpredictably shut off completely and then restarted ten minutes later - this happened twice, spaced two weeks apart.
I took the car to two mechanics, one a Honda, where they simulated driving and performed diagnostic tests but could find nothing wrong.
I Googled the Internet in search of an answer and ran across a fellow who had experienced a similar shutdown with his car and resolved it by purchasing a new ignition switch. So I tried that. Everything was fine until two weeks when I stopped at an intersection and the car shut down again - the dashboard lights stayed on. A police officer nearby push the car to the side of the road and we then pushed the car back and forth a bit. About ten minutes later, the car started up again as if nothing had happened and everything was OK.
I again took my car to the Honda dealer, but they could find nothing wrong, including driving the car around the neighborhood.
I am a total loss as to what do to. I am reluctant to junk this car because everything else is A-OK. The car drives fine and I love it because it is manual with minimum digital stuff including manual windows. But I cannot afford to drive this car when there is the chance of another unpredictable shutdown.
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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Background 2006 F350 5.4L 3V, 4WD, K&N CAI, Superchips tuner, 3.73 gears, Jett MAF, 215,000mi.
My issue is I have a shift problem from 3-5. This doesn't happen when I'm granny driving, only under a hard acceleration. The problem is the tranny doesn't seem like it wants to upshift. RPM goes up but the truck doesn't accelerate unless I let off the gas. I have changed the fluid and filters every 20k since I got the truck (150k). This problem came up after I changed my fluid and filter a couple days ago.
This time I changed to Mercon LV because I couldn't find Mercon SP (which is okay according to ford TSB). I used Valvoline max life ATF which said it was Mercon LV compliant. So is this the fluid type (multi ATF, Mercon LV compliant) or a bad solenoid from my understanding it would be the direct drive solenoid? Or am I SOL?
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
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I have a 2001 Ex 5.4 4wd ... I shut down my ex jumped out, locked her up and came out two days later and she was deader than a door nail. Charged battery (charger/starter) started her up and let her run for a while. Came back noticed the abs light was on, shut her down and noticed my blower motor was still running, after I shut the engine down and removed the key. Tried it again, same thing. This is obviously what drained the battery, but what in the wide wide world of sports in going on? the blower motor usually shuts off with the ignition switch when you turn the engine off..
I believe this to be the original battery, would minimal battery power make thing act strange or ????? Ignition switch is tight, never had any problems with it. I have not done any "fixin" of the wiring system so it should be ok. Took it for a drive, radio turns off with ignition as should, blower motor will turn off if I turn the b/m switch to off position before I turn the ignition off. If I leave the B/M on and turn ignition off the b/m continues to operate in any speed and will NOT shut off even if I position the b/m switch to the off position. Turn ignition on turn b/m switch to off the b/m turns off............still perplexed!!!!
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2 weeks ago the running board lights stayed on for like 5 mins until I went out and messed around with this and that. Tonight I came home and all three brake lights will not shut off. Tried driving,flipping switches....
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My 97 f-150 starts up every time.........the first time. After I drive for awhile and shut it off it gives me a hard time starting. It just cranks over but wont start. If I give it gas it catches and tries to start but dies out right away after I let go of the key. Sometimes after up to 10 tries and 20 minutes later it starts up again, so far! Also there is a gas smell, but I am thinking that's because of putting the gas pedal to the floor. could it be plugs? i bought it with 180,000 miles on it. I pulled a plug and it does look pretty rough so I am going to change em tomorrow.
The parts store calls out iridium plugs. the guy told me any plugs will work. said the only difference is the mileage you get out of em.
50,000 on regular plugs
100,000 on platinum
150,000 on iridium
Not sure that's the case but I bought platinum. I changed the plugs and wires and it runs great now. stopped for gas yesterday and still had to put the pedal to the floor for it to start. only one try and it started tho...... what next?
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I purchased an '03 V10 Excursion back in '13 with about 145000 miles on it. I've added another 30,000 in the last year and a half. It's been good but has started missing and has gotten to the point where it will shut off at times and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. The MIL has never lit from the missing. Twice after it cut off the MIL was lit with a speed sensor error.
I've purchased a BAFX Products Bluetooth OBD2 interface and I've tried a couple of different Android apps with it, right now I'm using Torque Pro. It says it's an OBD I system which I saw references to in the "Why your MIL doesn't turn on" thread. I'm seen references to using Mode 6, but everything I've read seems to indicate that's an OBD II feature.
The missing gets better and worse. Some days it will seem to be fine and then other days I have to keep it rev'ed up to keep it from dying while stopping for a red light.
When it dies, it dies while stopped in drive or reverse. It has also died a couple of times while moving in reverse while connected to a 3,500lb trailer. Every time it's died it has started right back up.
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This truck has been giving me tranny problems for a while now. About a year ago, stopped in traffic in neutral, I attempted to shift into 1st but it wouldn't go into gear, not reverse, not any gear. Eventually after a minute or so of trying it reluctantly went into 1st. About 6 months ago I started the truck after being parked and again it wouldn't get into gear. Shut it off, tried to get it into gear, nothing. Checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the clutch and it looked a little low so added a bit and after that it shifted into gear (maybe coincidentally). Now about a month ago, it again wouldn't shift into gear after being started. I checked the reservoir again, looked fine this time. Shut the car off, attempted to shift and this time shifted with ease
Something that I've noticed in the past year is that sometimes now when I shut the engine off it doesn't run down smoothly; kind of slows then clunks to a stop. Didn't used to do that.
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So I live in Utah and is cold here. My door won't shut tight when it's cold outside. I have to really slam it. I HATE it when my doors are slammed. But it's the only way I can secure it. No problems with any of the other does.
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I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
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I purchased a 1992 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition two weeks ago from a private dealer. Last week I went to start the car, and it started, but then turned off almost immediately. I dismissed it at the time saying I did not turn the key long enough or far enough because when I tried it again, it started.
However, this morning (05/06/14) it turned itself off again. It was on for about a second or two before it died. I started it again and pumped the gas. It started for me but it sounded rough like it might die again.
I am not sure how to fix this. The previous owner did not mention that there was any problem. I am thinking that I'll either need to replace the battery or the spark plugs.
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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My buddies 01 Ex will shut off the dome light after a short time with any or all the doors open. My 02 Ex will never shut the dome light out unless all doors are closed.
I guess I'm headed for the override switch but wanted to confirm before if I did that there wasn't an issue with something other component.
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I have a 2000 Ex and while I was walking around to let the ole lady in I leaned on the rear passenger door and it moved back and forth like a half inch. Its the only one that does it, is there an adjustment for this, either the stryker or on the hinges?
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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