Ford Excursion :: Hard Jolting Miss For A Second Randomly
May 20, 2012
Installed the Riffraff gauge kit and the check engine light came on about 20 miles after install and the Ex now randomly has a hard jolting miss, just for a second then its gone. Took it about 4 or 5 times of the jolting miss then the check engine light came on.
Could something have been unplugged or could the manifold air intake heater delete be causing the light. Ran fine until the gauge install. I remember reading something about the ground for the manifold air intake heater being a issue if not care full. I could not get the dam thing off so tapped the end and left it. The ground post kept spinning not allowing the ground to come loose. This thing is becoming a pit I cant feed fast enough.
If I can figure this out before Monday that would be great. If not I am tired of dicking with it and am just going to take it in. Don't have a scanner that will read the codes so SOL there. Unless there is some way to get them off with a flashing light sequence. I would love to find out how to do that. I don't want to drive it anymore than I have to as if one more thing goes wrong with this dam thing........
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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1999 Ranger 4.0. I have an issue with my ranger. Sometimes the truck runs awesome.While driving along the truck will miss and sputter and buck, when this happens, I almost can't maintain my speed. Sometimes when this happens if I put the truck in neutral and shut it off and restart it. The problem will temporarily go away. Occasionally it will go away on its own. When it goes away on its own it's like someone flipped a switch and all power is returned and running smooth. When the truck is at idle it depends on the mood of the truck, sometimes it's fine and other times it wants to die. I got to make this truck last awhile longer.
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When cruising my engine randomly has a miss. If I step on it, not necessarily full throttle but some, the engine pulls fine no miss. I don't think it's ignition because it doesn't miss with increased throttle. I have looked at an analyzer and none of the sensors is showing a fault. I have put 20 tankfuls of fuel with cleaner through it after I put a new fuel pump and filter on and I only use Shell now for the last 10 fill ups. The miss is not a passive drop in rpm but more of a buck.
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Noise on acceleration, sounds like a miss but engine feels good and no check engine light, eventually goes away, not there under a load either, idk totally stumped.
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I am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
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I developed a significant miss on my '00 Excursion 6.8L yesterday and threw a P0306 code. Since the engine has 178K showing and I bought it used, I am planning to replace all the COPs and plugs.
Recommend one COP over another; motorcraft over Accel, etc.? Any preference for spark plugs?
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I have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
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2005 f150 5.4.
I have a slightly rough idle and can feel a miss at 1600 to 2000 RPM. Sometimes running about 65 MPH up a slight grade I can slowly press the gas pedal and the engine will begin to miss much worse, causing the truck to shake pretty bad. When it gets this bad it will slowly flash the CEL and I get a P0306 code (Cyl 6 missfire).
The truck has 148000 Miles on it and the plugs were replaced at approx 120000 by the dealer.
In the last week I have replaced the plug in cylinder 6 (looked ok) and have replaced all the COP's along with the fuel filter and the injector on #6.
I haven't been able to get it flash the CEL light or throw a code since replacing the COPs though and I am at a loss at to what to try next.
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2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
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My truck has been jolting lately around 40-50mph. I have done some research, and I believe its one of the coils going out or is out. The problem is I can't get it to throw the ck engine light. So it's making it hard to determine which coil is actually bad. What to do? I honestly dont want to spend the money replacing every coil at this point.
It's a 2007 F-150 Crew 4X4.
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I bought a 02 X back in march this year. I have a family of six and its the only SVU with enough seating and cargo room. About a month or so after I got it the battery would randomly die. I could charge it back up and it would die again a couple of days latter. I figured the battery was no good so I bought a Optima Red Top and threw that in. Truck was doing good so I thought I had it fixed. Then it started back up last week again. I could charge the battery and it would be ok for a few days then be dead the next morning.
I picked up a multi meter from Harbor Freight and checked the battery. Battery was at 10.5 volts. Charged the battery again then checked the alternator with the truck running. 14.2 volts. I've checked the connections one the battery, nice and tight not corroded or anything. My next best guess is something is getting left on and killing the battery. How do I go about testing for that? What might be causing this random battery death?
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I have a 2005 Excursion, V10, 6.8 2WD w/ 177k. About 3 months ago, I started the engine and both headlights (low beams) did not turn on (it was dark out/automatic lights) The running lights were all running. Turned the switch on/off and no luck, however the brights (high beams and flash to pass) work while this is going on. About 30 seconds later, the low beams turn back on by themselves. Fast forward 3 months, the low beams will turn off for anywhere from 1 second to 30 seconds and turn back on. This happens while sitting in driveway, driving, sitting at a light etc. No changes other then an oil change. Happens when switch set to automatic and "on" as well. Brights always work, running lights etc, just the low beams turn on and off.
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I just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
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Bought an Ex last year with 200k miles on it. Started having issues this summer. First off, it will shake when pushing on the gas. If I let off the vibrating stops. Secondly, if I tromp on it, the speedometer drops for a second then comes back up and the "ABS" light comes on for that split second too. Thirdly, it will randomly die on me. This morning dropping off the kids at school, it died 3 times while backing up. Starts right up, but will just kill, no sputtering.
The Check engine was on, so I took it into Advance for a reading. Computer said there was an issue at the rear output sensor. So, I replaced the Speed Sensor on the rear differential last night. Take it for a test drive, and the check engine light is still on, but the Overdrive light on the shifter is flashing randomly.
Now, I assume the shaking and dying is Fuel related. I am ruling out the spark plugs as it idles fine (maybe I'm wrong). I purchased a fuel filter to replace that and hopefully it works.
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So my dummy light came on the other day, I went ahead and pulled the alternator and had it tested at advanced. It tested bad so I replaced it not my battery light comes on and off randomly. I have a edge tuner on my truck and my voltage reading on there is different after each start up. Sometimes it runs 12.1-12.2 other times it reads in the 14's I have checked with a multimeter also and got the same readings +-.1 or 2.
My dummy light keeps coming back on randomly, I had to replace the alternator connector because I broke it by accident. I also traced the wires as far as I could to check for brakes in the wire and found none with out proper time to pull all the wire loom off. What is the cause I know I could probably use cables soon as my terminals look a bit rough but are clean. Seems to be some really weak flimsy metal. Which fuse to check as my 2002 ex 7.3 only has the inside fuse block and I can't find much online about it.
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I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer with 16k miles. The AC control unit has randomly gone dead twice. When I turn off the truck and let it sit for a while (20 min last time) it will come back on and work fine. I took it to the Ford dealer while it was dead so they would see it. They told me however, that if it works when I bring it back they wouldn't be able to work on it. What was the problem? I'm going to Parker AZ this weekend and Phoenix next weekend. I don't want it to be intermittent or crap out all together when I am there.
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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I randomly started throwing a couple codes that have been causing my "check engine" light to come on ... came on on my way into work this morning) . I know that the P0683 code is the Glow Plug Ctrl Module to PCM Comm Circuit (from my code reader), but I am not sure what to do next ... I have the dealer service DVD from 2002 that I will look at this weekend....
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I have been chasing down what was a perceived vacuum leak...
My Ex (V10, 4x4, 217K miles) started to have an intermittent rough running/no power situation very randomly. No codes on the scanner, and no real apparent cause or condition to pin it down. I noticed what sounded like a like throttle ping...figured it was a vacuum leak someplace in the spaghetti under the hood.
I began to run down the possibilities. I have recently had the entire suspension replaced and upgraded all 4 corners to Power Stop brakes. Figured it might be something related like the classic lines to the hubs.
Replaced the vacuum lines to the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced the vacuum switch for the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced fuel filter - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Ordered a new vacuum reservoir...
While waiting on that, changed all 10 plugs and coils. Not. Cheap. Ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced IAC - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
As I was getting ready to install the vacuum res, it just croaked. it would turned over like it wanted to start, but wouldn't catch.
Of course.... So, now it had to be towed and yes, the fuel pump puked and that was that. I've never had one do anything but just quit suddenly before, so lesson learned. Evidently these pump can act up for a bit before they die.
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So I have a 2000 6.8l V10 that I recently swapped the engine on (reman). While I was doing that, I decide to do some LED upgrades. I swapped out the turn signals, side marker lights, and headlights with LEDs. I added some LED fog lights, and I have a Rigid light bar.
I replaced pretty much everything on attached to the engine aside from the alternator (it didn't give me any problems, so I figured it was good).
When the truck is running with the lights off, there are 6 LED strips running as DRLs, when the lights are switched on, the side marker, turn signal and headlights turn on. When I switch to high beams, my fogs turn on. The light bar is on its own switch.
During the day with the headlights off, I dont notice the battery/charging system indicator light turn on at all. At night, when I flip the headlights on, I've noticed that it sporadically and randomly flash. The flashing indicator light does not appear to be associated with bumps or anything.
It does not seem to matter if I have just the DRL/low beams on, DRL/high beams+fogs, or DRL/high beams+fogs + light bar on. The indicator light comes and goes with the same random consistency regardless of how much power I am sucking from the alternator/battery. The RPM's of the engine also appear to have no effect on when/how often the indicator light comes on...
I drove for over an hour last night, and the voltage gauge never changed, so the battery does not *seem* to be draining (~1 year old Optima yellow). I added an extra ground wire going from the battery to the engine about a year ago (long before this LED upgrade) to ensure a good ground, so I dont *think* the wires are the issue. Is my alternator suddenly going bad? Any higher output ones I could replace it with? Is it a simple fix that does not require a new alternator?
Here are some pics of the lights:
(This was before the fog light install)
These lights only come on when the truck is in reverse:
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