Ford Excursion :: Growling Sound When Let Off Go Pedal
Jan 21, 2013
2 weeks ago I had some poorly installed spring shims start to slip out, the last day I drove the truck before parking it to wait on parts to arrive I started to hear this sound as I let off the go pedal. New shims were installed yesterday but I still have this sound. I had never heard it before the day mentioned above. It only lasts for a second or so and only when letting off the gas at above 30 mph, at very low speeds and let off gas no sound. Here is the link to a really short video, hopefully you can clearly hear the sound twice in the clip, I am doing 40 mph and feathering off the gas. Phone is laying in cargo area so there is no picture, just sound. What is that sound?
My Movie - YouTube...
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2005 X Limited 4x4 with 80,000 miles and I'm pretty sure my non serviceable bearing units are bad. Vibration and growling at 50 thru 70 mph. Only 80,000 on OEM seems pretty low. Front bearing assemblies....
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For a little wile now, I have had a growling noise when I depress the clutch pedal with the engine running. It mostly does it when the truck is cold and goes away after a few uses but was getting worse and taking longer to go away. The transmission shifts normally, the clutch operates normally and it does not make the noise if I put the transmission in neutral and let the clutch out. So I'm thinking dry throw out bearing.
I did an oil change Monday, and while it was up on the ramps, I decided to check the transmission oil level, I mean its got a 181k on it so its about time to check, right. Bone dry. I put about 2 qts of gear oil in the transmission that the service manual says has a 4 1/4 pint capacity. I took it out for a drive today and the noise is gone. Go figure.
I only drive the truck one or two times a week, sometimes less so in a couple of weeks I will check the transmission again for a leak, but there was no sign of a leak when I was under there Monday. But is still shifts smoothly, makes no noise.
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Recently my 2000 F350 7.3 crew cab has been making a growling/vibration sound by the glove box at idle. Seems to disappear at speed/higher RPM.
Any thoughts on what might be loose at firewall passenger side area?
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Today was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
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2003 xle v6 auto... 105,000 approx... Seems to be developing a noise, which I hope is not the transaxle. It is a bit like a "whine" or "growling" sound, can't quite place it. Driving around at slower speeds with windows open, cannot really hear anything.
Up at 50 MPH or more it is noticeable and, unfortunately, seems to be getting louder. Does not seem to vary with speed. Don't think it is some weird wind noise.
I did do the poor man's trans flush about 6 months ago (drain pan, fill + 1 quart, disconnect hose, run a quart out, add quart, repeat until clean comes out) and it has been happy. Also did timing belt/idlers/wp a couple months ago. Did not see a way to change the diff. Seem to be a drain, but no fill, so I left it.
My suspects are - wheel bearing(s), cv/axle, transaxle. oh, tires, I guess.
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I have 1992 Honda Accord, LX. Automatic. 108K miles. There is a "growling" sound that comes from the transmission once the car reaches 40 miles per hour. This sound increases and decreases with the speed of the car. The car shifts fine. Does not buck. The transmission fluid most likely needs to be changed considering the mileage, and I'm not aware if it was ever changed considering I am not the original owner. I have been told a few things are possible causes. Changing the fluid may work. (Questionable) There is a sensor that can cause this. And lastly, it needs to be rebuilt.
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I recently bought a used 2003 jetta wagon with 159k. Is it normal to feel and hear a growling sound when the air cond is running and you stop for a red light. It's a 2.0 automatic jetta wagon. I never had a 4 cylinder automatic car and this is my first VW.
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Sounds like I may have a problem that is not all that uncommon i have a 94 honda accord with 100k miles, runs great, handles great
Just last week I noticed a resonant humming / growling sound coming from the engine - it's very "vocal"it only occurs around 2000 rpm, and is more pronounced when decelerating there's no apparent loss of power or fuel efficiency the sound occurs with or without the transmission engaged and seems to be worse after the car has heated up a bit
Cat converter? Intake manifold?
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
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I'm going down the highway, put the pedal to the floor to pass and the battery light comes on, no difference in the needle or performance of the X, just the light comes on. 2001 V10 2WD
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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Why is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
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So towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
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I've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
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I have a 2000 X 5.4... There is a loud roaring noise when releasing gas pedal or stopped (doesn't matter whether its in park or drive)...noise stops when giving gas...the noise is almost like a bull horn...there are no engine lights on so can't get a code...
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The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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The vehicle is a 2000 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. I have never owned a diesel before....
First issue is that I have developed a hard start. It started last Saturday, and went from sporadically starting hard, to starting hard every time. I have 146,000 miles on her. She cranks strong, but will not turn over the first time, sometimes takes 2, 3, or 4 times. (Foot on gas pedal) I don't know if it's an issue of not getting enough fuel or what. Occasionally, even after she starts, it's very rough (shaking the whole vehicle, and acting like she wants to die) until I rev the engine and she smoothes out. After she smoothes out, there is no problem with wanting to drive, she's strong. If I kill the ignition, and start up immediately, she starts the first time, it's only after 10 minutes or so of being off.
My next issue is a clunking noise when I press the gas pedal. I don't know if it's the tranny, because she shifts pretty smooth for the most part, doesn't miss gears, etc. I could be travelling say 50MPH, press the gas pedal very little, and I can hear the clunking, and actually feel it every time I press it. (Don't have to be mashing the pedal, happens on very light presses as well).
I have the TS Performance 6 position chip, otherwise she's stock. I tow roughly a 7000 travel trailer every couple of weeks, never any problems before this.
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