My 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
View 14 RepliesSo lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
View 7 RepliesMy 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
View 2 RepliesI need removing the console on a 2005 Malibu Max. The switch on the shifter will not move the transmission down to 2nd or 1st gear. There was a post by "shadow5599" on 05-05-2009 stating that this problem was caused by a broken wire in the harness under the console leading to the shifter +/- switch. He said it was easy to fix but the console needed to be removed. Later on the same day he posted that he had just posted the instructions on how to remove it. I'm a first time user on this site and I haven't been able to locate those instructions.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
Got in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd 7.3 diesel. Drove it an hour yesterday and drove fine. Got home and decided to check the mail so I put it in park, left it running and got the mail. Jumped back in and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried 1 and 2 and would not move. Put it in reverse and it barely moved.
I turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove fine like nothing happened. Same thing happened today. Turned it off and back on and it worked fine again. It happened a 3rd time when I stopped put it in park and back in drive but I was able to move in drive once I revved it up a bit.
As long as it is in drive like at a red light with your foot on the brake it is fine but if you put it in park and then go to drive it wont move unless you turn the vehicle off and back on. The fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Maybe converter or ???? Is it ok to drive i this way???
This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
So my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
View 1 RepliesMy Excursion keeps blowing fuse #45, a/k/a "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed"
Going to have to go in shop. Seems to be a short in the steering column.
Then the dash lights go dim, headlights die, engine sputters and dies. I am guessing alternator most likely.
These two things might be related? Maybe there's not a short in the steering column, I dunno.
Ok I keep blowing fuse #3 in the interior compartment. Let me preface this by saying I have my always-on power for my rear view mirror which is the display for my back up camera, pulled from a wire that is fed by this fuse. The camera is on reverse power only and it pulled from the reverse lights in the rear of the truck, but the always-on power is pulled from this location for the display. Doesn't matter if I have always-on power to camera if the display fuse it has blown and I am guessing the mirror power is the source of my problem.
The fuse controls the OBD and the cigarette lighter and it seems to blow every time I plug anything into that power port that is more serious than say a phone charge. When this fuse goes then my mirror display is down, and back up camera is mainly used for hitching up a trailer solo. My camera is pointed straight down at my hitch ball and it makes hitching up by myself very easy.
I have a volt meter but not sure where I need to test, and well what a bad number is when I do test it? The mirror instructions say to pull always on power under the dash and the right wires are attached, and the fuse rating matches, so don't think it's a too much being pulled issue. Maybe a bad connection or maybe a relay issue? I had this fuse blow several times before I had the power mirror but it's certainly gotten worse.
Every time you engage the car in drive it blows a fuse. I have checked through the wiring but cannot see what the cause is.
View 14 RepliesSo i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
View 14 RepliesI posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
View 14 RepliesFiguring out automatic shifter problem, the car only has 56k miles & it has problem (since 30k miles) shifting out of Park or stuck in Park, often I had to use the mechanical override to release it so I can put it in Neutral to start the engine. When placed in Drive, it kind of "floats," does not have the normal confident in-the-gear feel & sometimes it slips out of Drive to Neutral with the slightest bump of the gear shifter when driving or when stopped. When I shift, it does not have a free easy movement, it feels like the cable is restricted by corrosion or dirt, but everything looked good & seem shielded. Took it to a shop & they suggested that I just drive it... I've since put over 20k miles & its getting worse at finding Neutral to start the car with.
View 2 RepliesWhenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 Replies