Ford Excursion :: Gas Gauge And Lie-o-meter Not Synchronized
Apr 18, 2013
I notice, that once I hit 1/4 tank. Either my lie-o-meter or gas gauge is accurate. The gauge will be showing just under 1/4 tank and the meter will show twenty miles. I'm thinking about dropping the tank and replacing the fuel lever assembly. I stopped by autozone put they couldn't find a part number. What is the part number?
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I am going to install an aftermarket gauge on my Excursion. Just would like to know the best place to install the probe. Hopefully it isn't that hard.
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My gas gauge will read empty every once in a while then correct itself after driving for a few miles. Is it just the sensor sticking?
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Wife got home from work the other day with no problems and then a couple hours later tried to go start excursion to leave and battery was dead. I tried jumping it only to find out that once the battery started getting juice in it the gauge warning lights started to illuminate. Wouldn't start with being jumped so put the battery on charge for a couple hours and still no go. Took the battery into napa and they tested it and said it was bad.
Put new battery into it and am still stuck with the same problems. Hook the battery up and no key in the ignition and the warning lights around the exterior of the gauges are lit up. This is all on a 2000 v10 excursion. Up until now we have not had any problems with this truck. Wife daily drives it with no problems.
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Today the little guage in the over head went dark. So I came to FTE to search out the repair solution, but I'm having issues. What is that thing actually called? I've read it referenced as the lie-o-meter, but I cannot seem to find a good thread relating to various repairs to it.
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I am in the process of installing this gauge and I am having a heck of a time finding the right power points at the fuse box. The gauge requires both a switched 12v power supply and a constant 12v power supply. I am going to use one of the power outlets as the switched supply but cannot determine a constant supply without running wire all the way to the battery. Wiring and electrical stuff is just not my forte!
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Last fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
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this thing stopped working on me today, can i fix it? or how can i get another one?
04 Ex
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What powers the overhead trip/compass/MPG gauges? Mine won't light up, and I'm lost.
The story: This unit has been out since before I bought it. Initially, I didn't give it too much thought. I was more interested in replacing tie rods and the lock-out hubs. Off and on since the summer, I've been thinking about it. In the fall, I started messing with it. I tried locating a fuse, but they all "seem" fine, unless I'm looking at the wrong one. I gave up, decided it was a dead unit, and went hunting.
In my grand fortune, I bought a replacement front grille for my Ex, as mine was cracked. The seller and I had a long conversation about our Ex's, and it led to him giving me a perfectly functional display. He bought the complete overhead unit for parts, didn't need the computer. I paid nothing for it, the guy was awesome. Despite his awesomeness, he said his 7.3L had only 152k, which may lead to a powertrain robbery in the night (j/k).
Today, I went out, dropped the console, popped and swapped the displays, still nothing. Sad faced, I hit my head on the steering wheel and came in for more coffee. It's snowing, again, and I'm not back tracking the entire system if someone here knows the hot spots or common faults of this display.
If you know anything that may be of some use, pictures, fuse slots, relay info. I know this v10 is a gasser, but I'd really like to see how bad it is.
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Fuel gauge reads full all the time except when the key is off. Also the temp gauge reads low. Just barely on the mark for normal.
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Last time I filled up was Friday and the gas gauge hasn't moved. When I shut the Ex off it goes back to the bottom so I know the needle isn't stuck. I'm also getting a code u1262 from the instrument cluster that wasn't there last time I checked so I'm assume it's related. Where to start troubleshooting?
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My fuel gauge is not working, nor is the cruise control, Had the truck looked at, was told the cruise was not working due to the fuel gauge not working?
Also when he hooked it up was told the dash gauge worked fine and the computer showed 60% which would have been about right based on mileage on the tank. My guess is that I need a sending unit?
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I have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
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So I had the brakes services yesterday at a new shop in town. Normally I wouldn't do this, I like to do it myself. After I dropped the truck off I get a call a while later and the service tech tells me that the passenger front caliper is the wrong one. He says it's actually for the drivers side, but who ever did the brakes last just flipped it upside down and put it on the passenger side. So in essence, I have two drivers side calipers on the front of my truck.
I got under ther and looked and the bleeder screw is on the bottom on the passenger side. I would assume it's supposed to be on the top like the others?
So here's my questions......
1. Is it even possible to put the drivers side on the passenger side (upside down?)
2. Is it really the wrong caliper? It has been working for over two years like this with no ill effects.
3. Should I worry about it if in fact it is the wrong caliper?
I've never done the brakes on this truck actual truck myself. I really hate taking things to the shop because you never know if they are trying to scam you, which I'm pretty sure they were. I left there with only new pads...
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Today was drive my x 2000 v10 limited 4x4 114k miles). It was 90 degrees Out and was driving in light traffic going 40 and noticed my temp gauge almost up to h then dropped fast. So shut the ac off and it continue to rise and drop fast I went few more miles to where I was going checked everything could see no problems it sat for about 30mins then left on my drive back home 36 miles and had ac on and no problems stayed where it normally is. I am thinking of just replacing the belt cause I never have. No weeping from water pump. Or any smell.
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My Gauge Cluster and Climate Control lights are out. Both still function properly. The mileage is light up and the turn singles work, the dummy lights even light up but when the headlights come on, the gauges don't illuminate. Same goes for the climate control; it works and the display is good but the buttons don't light up.
I replaced the headlight switch was I wasn't getting power to the light blue/red wire on the dimmer side. (Dr. Google told me to do this) Both failed at the same time so I'm thinking it is not a bulb issue. What to chase next?
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'05 Ex overhead console temp is showing -40 deg... Had the board out looking for loose diodes, didn't see any. Have any of you ran into this before?
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So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
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Well I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.
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2000 v10 with 188400 miles. Everything runs great. No leaks. Oil pan gasket is weeping, but not dripping. Don't want to cross that bridge yet. Been towing a dual axle trailer with a little car on it quite a bit the last couple of months. Probably total 1,000 miles. Drove it up north which was a steep climb so it really had to work getting up the hills.
My question is, the oil light started flickering last night, and the gauge was also flickering from the L to normal range. It was jumping quite quickly. I put a quart of oil in it today, and the gauge never acted up again. So i think that ruled out the oil sending unit. The truck doesn't leak oil anywhere, at least according to the driveway. Maybe burning oil since I've been towing a lot? I checked the oil dipstick, but couldn't get a good reading. I can post pictures later.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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