Ford Excursion :: Fuse 3 Keeps Blowing - Camera Pointing Straight Down?
Nov 4, 2013
Ok I keep blowing fuse #3 in the interior compartment. Let me preface this by saying I have my always-on power for my rear view mirror which is the display for my back up camera, pulled from a wire that is fed by this fuse. The camera is on reverse power only and it pulled from the reverse lights in the rear of the truck, but the always-on power is pulled from this location for the display. Doesn't matter if I have always-on power to camera if the display fuse it has blown and I am guessing the mirror power is the source of my problem.
The fuse controls the OBD and the cigarette lighter and it seems to blow every time I plug anything into that power port that is more serious than say a phone charge. When this fuse goes then my mirror display is down, and back up camera is mainly used for hitching up a trailer solo. My camera is pointed straight down at my hitch ball and it makes hitching up by myself very easy.
I have a volt meter but not sure where I need to test, and well what a bad number is when I do test it? The mirror instructions say to pull always on power under the dash and the right wires are attached, and the fuse rating matches, so don't think it's a too much being pulled issue. Maybe a bad connection or maybe a relay issue? I had this fuse blow several times before I had the power mirror but it's certainly gotten worse.
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Is there any quick fix for this? My steering wheel is slightly turned when the wheels are pointing straight. I thought a wheel alignment would fix this, but it didn't.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
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I have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
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My Excursion keeps blowing fuse #45, a/k/a "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed"
Going to have to go in shop. Seems to be a short in the steering column.
Then the dash lights go dim, headlights die, engine sputters and dies. I am guessing alternator most likely.
These two things might be related? Maybe there's not a short in the steering column, I dunno.
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So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
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My 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
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I posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
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I installed rvc couple of months ago. When I put in reverse, only shows straight yellow lines on screen. Is there any way to activate to lines turn with steering wheel (like cars with parking sensors)? I was wondering if there is Vag_com trick available for this option.
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I've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
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Currently I have a license plate camera wired always on connected to a 7inch lilliput monitor infront of my center console on that hump in the floor. The monitor is connected to a 12v plug on the dash. In this configuration, I have to reach down and turn the monitor on whenever I want to reverse and im hoping I can make it turn on whenever I go into reverse. Right now, if I turn it on then turn the truck off, the monitor stays on with a bright blue no signal screen which forces me to turn the monitor on, then off, every time I reverse if I want to use it.
Any way to make the monitor turn on/off when I put my Ex in reverse?
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I installed a rear camera on my truck and when I tested it the picture is upside down. I tried taking the camera apart and flipping it, but to no avail. Only problem with flipping it over is the plastic housing will only let you rotate it down so much. I basically took some pliers and pealed the plastic down so I could get a better view. This is the camera I bought. License Mount Color CCD Rear View Backup Camera Tag
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My reverse camera goes over the mirror, its a mirror when not in use and a camera when in reverse. The way this one is set up, the camera taps switched 12 volts at the rear of the car (tapped trailer connector for these) and the video signal runs forward (ran under headliner to center console to mirror). The monitor needs 12 volts, ground, and + 12 volts when I shift into reverse. I just read a half dozen threads where people suggested tapping into a black wire with pink stripe in the driver's kick panel. Just checked, no such wire on mine. I do not want to run a wire back from the taillight, this seems backwards since the power goes from the front of the truck to the reverse light in the taillight I just need to find the right wire. I checked the reverse relay and the fuse in the fusebox and they are both 12 volts when the truck is on, so they must be prior to the reverse switch.
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Why the 30amp PCM fuse located in the under dash panel would blow. Problem started while truck was running and a simple replace of the fuse would it it back alive again. Now fuse is blowing at ignition on. Truck is 1997 F250 LD.
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I am having trouble with fuse 23 under the hood blowing while driving. I have read several threads on this issue but still no luck. I have removed all 4 02 sensors and ac relay and still about 1/4 mile down the road the fuse blows, and is giving the shift solenoid A shift solenoid B and the torque converter clutch solenoid electrical circuit. I have checked both plugs on the trans, I even dropped the pan and ohmed the solenoids out. I dont know what else to do?
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Description: It will crank over forever but not start. New timing belt water pump, etc, so it is not timing. tried different fuel pump relay. no luck. new fuse no luck. The radio fuse also shorts and blows when I change it. Headlight does not come on, but the cabin "ding ding ding" sound plays. Marker, turning, reverse, and brake lights work.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on during key turn. I may know what caused it or it may not. Before all of this happened, my audio system fuse under the hood blow. It blew again after I installed a new fuse (immediately).
One day, the wires on a portable cigarette light pump snapped and the two wires had been touch. I noticed the truck stalled several times when letting off the gas and coming to a rolling stop. The fuel pump relay makes a click noise when I turn the key
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My A/C clutch fuse (#46) keeps blowing when the car is started but a/c is not on. Checked relay, it's ok. Unplugged compressor but the fuse still blows. Fan works, heat works, but no cold air.
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My 2007 Focus wagon keep blowing (#30) 10amp fuse. It is connected to the tail lights (when the lights are on), the license plate light, and dashboard lights. I think it is related to moisture as it is worse (keeps blowing the fuse) after a rain. I've checked the taillights and there isn't any moisture there (although when I first found this, both taillight housings were pretty melted). Where to look for the short? Some other discussion groups listed different harnesses, but which one...I have the sinking feeling this is going to be impossible to find (or REALLY expensive)
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The fuse for the speedometer keeps blowing. I changed the fuse and the circit breaker in Dec. 6 weeks later the fuse blew again, I replaced it and it last another 2 weeks and blew again. What is causing and what might be the solution?
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2008 F150 Super crew 5.4 v8, bone stock. The truck was acting up with a rough idle and slight miss when in gear at a stop 2 weeks ago, loss of power going uphill. Changed fuel filter and filled up with premium and a can of sea foam. The truck straightened up after that, so I thought. Last Friday it dies in the road, cranks, but no fire.
Has to be the engine, had it towed to the local dealer and they get to look at it Monday afternoon, said the transmission fuse was blown and it keeps blowing new ones, it's in the transmission wiring. I am used to older trucks and was blown away transmission wiring will shut the truck down. I would think the wiring harness to the transmission would be simple enough to check out, can the wiring or solenoids in the tranny cause this?
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