Have any of you tried to cut an access hatch in the rear of your truck to get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Am I way off? can it even be done? My fuel pump took a dump with about a quarter of a tank. I'm trying to find a work around.
View 14 RepliesI notice that not only does the fuel pump primes when the drivers door is opened but also when the rear hatch opens.
View 2 RepliesI accidentally scraped the bugger off with my ice scraper a couple of years ago. I was actually lucky enough to find it once all of the snow melted, and was able to just pop it back in. However, of course, that is all cosmetic, and is no longer functional. I would like to regain this functionality, but can't seem to find a way to access the nozzle from the under side of the hatch. It's an '07.
View 4 RepliesI just got my Bosch fuel pump from Riff Faff and will be installing it this weekend.
I want to add a Pre and Post filters to the pump and had a couple of questions
1) the threaded end that's under pressure what is that connection.. I would like it hard connected to a filter and then the stock line connected to the out put of the filter.
2) for Pre Filter its a push Lock connection... Should I keep it or look for something that works better under Vacuum?
Before I left on Spring Break last week, truck wouldn't start. It was a Saturday morning, so I had it towed to the only open shop in town. He said the fuel pump was going out. He got it started maximizing the fuel pressure with his scan tool.
The unusual thing is I replaced the fuel pump (I have a V-10) earlier this year with a Motorcraft Pump from Amazon. I also replaced the fuel filter about 60,000 miles ago.
Does this sound right? I have never heard of turning up the pump with a scan tool.
It did fine over Spring Break, but is in my driveway right now refusing to start. I can't believe the fuel pump went out that quickly.
Does it sound like the fuel pump?
As in a previous post, i have been having issues with my truck starting then immediately dieing if i dont keep my foot on the gas.
Ive learned how to drive with 2 feet because of it, but I'm afraid i might be doing some type of damage since it keeps dieing and I have to keep starting it.
Once i get going for about 10-15 minutes its fine but its happening every time i start the truck.
Before it starts running correctly, it only idles around 400 rpm.
I think its the fuel pump, since my mechanic put a code scanner on there and it didn't throw any codes, he thinks it might be the fuel pump.
My question is, should i go with a ford pump from the dealer or are the ones sold from discount/o'reilly/napa just as good?
It has been a while. My 2000 2wd 5.4 Ex has developed a issue and I'm going to say it is the fuel pump. It was right before Christmas and I went out and the truck would not start. I panicked and remembered the relay. It pressed it, it clicked and off I went. Last week I was leaving work and it did the same thing but the relay was not tripped.
I got under it and rapped the tank a couple times with a rubber mallet and it fired up just fine. Went out this morning, super cold out and nothing. Rapped on the tank, nothing. Took the other car to work and came home, rapped on it again and nothing. The fuses are good but I'm sure it is the pump because I was able to hit the tank and start it.
My question is, any write up on removing the tank or a video? I like to see what i'm up against before I start to pull it. The bad thing for me is I have a little over half a tank of gas in it and no place to put it. This is going to be fun.
Looking for a link to the fuel pump wiring for a 2000 V10 Ex? I'm trying to pinpoint my no start issue and want to make sure I don't miss anything. I think it goes from 20 amp fuse under hood to inertia switch to relay under hood to pump? 20 amp fuse has power but at the inertia switch I have no voltage, just approx 35 ohms resistance to ground on both outside wires. Does the inertia switch close a ground or should it have voltage?
View 10 RepliesI own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
View 7 RepliesI have been chasing down what was a perceived vacuum leak...
My Ex (V10, 4x4, 217K miles) started to have an intermittent rough running/no power situation very randomly. No codes on the scanner, and no real apparent cause or condition to pin it down. I noticed what sounded like a like throttle ping...figured it was a vacuum leak someplace in the spaghetti under the hood.
I began to run down the possibilities. I have recently had the entire suspension replaced and upgraded all 4 corners to Power Stop brakes. Figured it might be something related like the classic lines to the hubs.
Replaced the vacuum lines to the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced the vacuum switch for the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced fuel filter - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Ordered a new vacuum reservoir...
While waiting on that, changed all 10 plugs and coils. Not. Cheap. Ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced IAC - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
As I was getting ready to install the vacuum res, it just croaked. it would turned over like it wanted to start, but wouldn't catch.
Of course.... So, now it had to be towed and yes, the fuel pump puked and that was that. I've never had one do anything but just quit suddenly before, so lesson learned. Evidently these pump can act up for a bit before they die.
- Fuse Box - Part # 3C7T-14A067-DC Engineering Number on white label.
- Ford Dealer Part # 3C7Z-14A068-DB
I have a 2004 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4x4 that has a bad fuel pump relay. I am looking for a used replacement fuse panel.
Of all these number and letters which of them tells me the real part number? Does the last two letters mean anything "DC" or "DB"?
So I don't get one for a diesel, what is the prefix for the diesel? I am assuming the 3C7T is gas and the year model?
Also, will this fuse panel interchange with a F250/F350 6.8L or do I need to stick with a fuse panel from an Excursion?
Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
View 14 RepliesThe fuel gauge sender quit the other day so Im replacing the pump assembly. I believe in replacing fuel and ignition related parts with factory equipment. So I was going to get a Ford Motorcraft pump, but my wife checked for one through her work(local parts store). The counter guy found one that said original equipment, called them and was told "It is the same pump that gets installed on the assembly line". Well it came in today and its a Delphi. I was expecting a Ford pump. I associate Delphi with GM and I know GM pumps go out all the time. I know Ford pumps go out too, but I know several people with GMs that have replaced pumps multiple times within 100000 miles. Is Delphi worth taking a chance on?
View 6 RepliesMy eXcursion is showing the typical signs of a failing fuel pump. It cranks and fires on a few cylinders, then quits. I released the schrader valve on the fuel rail but very little pressure is released. From these indications, and after checking for a blown fuse, it appears the fuel pump is going. I say going because it did start after this happened, but would you trust it?
I ordered a new fuel pump, it's due in tomorrow. I remember seeing instructions on how to drop the tank but can't locate them with the search function. I'm also concerned with how to remove the pump from inside the tank. I know you have to spin off the big plastic ring, how do you get the pump off the bottom of the tank?
getting weak spray/dribble (yea, it could be a "personal problem " on the drivers side squirter. Left side great. I have replaced both squirters and blew out the line where it T's over to the drivers side.
Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.
Installed an aftermarket stereo but having problems with the steering wheel controls adapter I purchased and need to remove the radio to access the settings on the adapter. The kit I used to install the radio states that once the radio is snapped in place with the kit, the dash bezel must be removed to access the radio. I googled and I cannot find instructions on how this piece come off.
View 11 Replies2002 7.3l Diesel 4x4 Excursion with 200K+ miles. Best truck I have ever owned and want to keep it forever!!!
One of the latches on the jack access door broke off years ago. I want to replace or repair it. I have been looking for a jack access door for years, and then saw this forum and decided to give it a try.
Needless to say I have contacted the local Ford dealerships multiple times and they say they can not get them. I have looked on craigslist without success. I have a silver (they call it Birch or something) truck with similar leather and carpet and door panels. When I can get another door or repair the latch on the ?
Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
View 4 RepliesSo I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
View 3 RepliesOk, rear latch handle, the black trim around it?
My idea was to wet sand it in place and repaint it. Does that sound like a good idea?
What kind of paint / clear coat to use on her?
I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
View 9 Replies