Ford Excursion :: Fuel Light Stays On Falsely?
Dec 4, 2013
My Truck Ran out the day I brought it home with the trip meter saying I could still go 50 Miles. I thought the pickup was broke in the tank but when dropped the tank it was folded like an accordion and full of crud. I put a new one on and hutch modded the pickup.
So the Light cam on last night and I reset the trip and have a 5 gallon can of Diesel in the back. When it ran out I put 5 gallons in and the light was still on.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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So the ABS dummy light came is on, why? Stays on while driving, however as it recently snowed I got on the brakes and the ABS is still engaging? Is this just a bad sensor on the hub?
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I own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
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Today I noticed my fuel gauge giving a low fuel light. I had just fill up 50 miles earlier. Stop fr fuel anyway and could only put 1 3/4 gallons in so the tank is full.
After fueling the gauge went up off the low fuel mark about what I had put in. The only other consideration was the batteries were down and charged last night.
Question. What do I look at first?
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I have a 98 4 Runner the fuel light has come on, the fuel gauge itself is working fine. The low fuel indicator light stays on even on a full tank, would like to know if there is a reset button or is it attached to the fuel sending unit or is it a separate unit....
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Ok so the fuel gauge says empty and the low fuel light stays on even though the tank is full. I'm assuming its either the gauges or the sending unit. If it is the sending unit where is it located on this car?
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So yesterday I go to fill up and let the tank run down a bit. The MTE states I have 30 miles to empty. The low fuel light comes on back when it said I have 100 MTE. I fill up and I only take on 36 gallons. So I have 8 gallons still in the tank.
Is this normal for the fuel low to come so early or is it tied to the MTE overhead console and it sets it off? I'm going to try the reset for the overhead the next fill ups.
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2000 EX 6.8 4wd, my oil light and low fuel light will come on together for about 1 second then go off, oil is good and fuel was at 1/2 tank.
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Our 6CD Radio indicates all the CD Slots are full and there are no CD's in it. It will not "load", just says "CD Error". I purchased another USED radio same exact Model # and it does the same thing. Do I have (2) bad radio's which do the exact same thing? Or is there something else in the vehicle which would make the radio's indicate this? Like rear controls?
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My water-in-fuel light has been on constantly since I bought my 6.0L X about 3 weeks ago. Replaced fuel filters immediately; used DieselKleen in fuel; drained the HFCM multiple times... no water (upgraded the HFCM plug too). Sprayed some carb cleaner through drain hole and out runs red goo. Finally had time to clean out the HFCM this weekend. Raised front-end on ramps, chocked wheels.
Attempted to remove front drive shaft to 4x4. Couldn't free one of the bolts on the front U-joint. Rats. Since I couldn't remove the drive shaft, there wasn't enough room to remove the entire HFCM, so I removed only the cover.
Disconnect battery.
Unplug WIF sensor and fuel heater.
Drain HFCM (again) to make sure it's empty...it wasn't.
Disconnect 4 fuel lines. Wipe fuel from running down arms. I should mention that I had less than 1/4 tank of fuel to try and minimize spillage.
Remove 4 cover screws (7mm, though my 5/16" SAE socket fit better.)
Clean cover and HFCM with carb cleaner.
Replace HFCM gasket.
Replace HFCM cover; screws were hand-tightened.
Reconnect fuel lines and sensors.
Cycle Key-On, Engine Off (KOEO) about 4-5 times.
Crank 'er up....no more WIF light.
Here are some before and after pics.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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i started her up this morning and get her around the block..start to do about 30-35 and all of a sudden my traction light goes nuts....blinking like it is nobodies business, i pulled over and checked everything... nothing stuck...nothing wrong. the pavement was dry and i did not run over anything...
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On my Ex, the power point on the dash stays on even after the car turns off. This leaves anything plugged in powered on permanently. Is there a way to have it turn off with the ignition instead of always being hot?
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My inside dome lights and running board lights used to turn off after 30 seconds or so, after closing the door. I noticed this evening, they are staying on for 10 to 15 minutes before shutting off. I thought maybe I left the inside rolling switch on next to the headlight switch, but that was not on. I washed the vehicle earlier and dried out the contact points for the rear window and barn doors using WD-40 and wiping that off, as I noticed they had a little water around them after washing. I have washed the vehicle a few times before (had it only 3 months) with no problems until now. Lights are still staying on an extended period of time.
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Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
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when i bough the car i went on a test drive and everything was fine, once i bough it and went home my fiance opened the passanger side door to get in, and every sense than the door ajar light is on and the inside lights will never turn off and its draining down the battery, we have tried slamming the door shut and we just dont know what to do, theres not even a sensor botton to check out theres no way to tell what it could be for me as when i open the door to check out the botton like most vehicles do, there isnt one, what could it be?
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The problem started with ABS light on steady and traction light coming on and off. Had a private shop check the codes and he cleared the codes. The light was out, then came back with the ABS pump running constantly, even with the key off. Had to pull the fuse to stop the pump. The code was C1095. Replaced the ABS module. Now the ABS light is blinking and the traction light is on constantly. Codes shown are P1000, B2477, C1095, and B2290.
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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Recently my car had a stroke.... the fuel gauge (analog) stays on zero (digital-miles remaining in tank) says ---- even though i just put gas in, the ac isnt working the outside temp reads -- celsius when it should say something and fahrenheit, driver side switches only puts down driver side window, i can't move the side mirrors the controls are unresponsive. the radio won't turn off on its own when i turn the car off or start on its own when i turn the car on. the car is driving fine no change in how it responds. the only thing wrong is 95% of all the electronics.
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The fuel pump on my 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis is still running after turning the ignition off, causing the battery to drain. Replacing the fuel pump relay stops this from happening for a short time but it soon reoccurs. Is it possible there is a short in the ignition system, or is this a sign that the fuel pump is going out?
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