Ford Excursion :: Fuel Gauge Reads Full All The Time?
Mar 17, 2011
So I had the brakes services yesterday at a new shop in town. Normally I wouldn't do this, I like to do it myself. After I dropped the truck off I get a call a while later and the service tech tells me that the passenger front caliper is the wrong one. He says it's actually for the drivers side, but who ever did the brakes last just flipped it upside down and put it on the passenger side. So in essence, I have two drivers side calipers on the front of my truck.
I got under ther and looked and the bleeder screw is on the bottom on the passenger side. I would assume it's supposed to be on the top like the others?
So here's my questions......
1. Is it even possible to put the drivers side on the passenger side (upside down?)
2. Is it really the wrong caliper? It has been working for over two years like this with no ill effects.
3. Should I worry about it if in fact it is the wrong caliper?
I've never done the brakes on this truck actual truck myself. I really hate taking things to the shop because you never know if they are trying to scam you, which I'm pretty sure they were. I left there with only new pads...
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Fuel gauge reads full all the time except when the key is off. Also the temp gauge reads low. Just barely on the mark for normal.
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Full tank and the gauge reads empty. Has happened to me a few times. Occurs after a fillup and disappears after the car is left to sit for a while off. I would hate for this to happen on a long drive. Dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the issue. Am wondering if this might be related to the hiccup in some way. Also, am wondering if this is a fuse issue.
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I'm new to the Gen 1.
All has been well in just over a month of driving the car and about 3300 miles logged. The 12v, Aux battery was dead from the car sitting on the lot for so long (I replaced with a new OEM Toyota 12v battery) After a week of the car experiencing dim headlights, and various other electronics
No codes or CEL though.
Now that the 12v battery has been replaced, the car runs exceptionally well, aside from an intermittent fuel gauge issue where it only reads full bars (completely full) if I let the tank get to empty (Flashing single bar) or close to that. If I fill the tank from s
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Just had the tires rotated , then shop tech backs the X out of the shop, parks it and then hands me the keys. I hop in and turn the key , the truck turns over , but starts to shudder and buck, and fuel pressure gauge reads 0.
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Gas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
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Trouble with the fuel gauge showing full all the time - only goes down 1/8th at most. Repair shop said would have to pull dash to find the trouble.
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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Fuel gauge goes back to empty when I fill the truck all the way up. It goes back to full once I have used up 2 gallons ( from 36 gal to 34 ) on my 2012 F350. I also had a similar issues years ago with my 2003 6.0L .....
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I have a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. One of its problems is the temperature gauge was not reading. I grounded the sender wire to the engine block to deterimine if the sender was bad, and ever since the gauge reads hot all the time, even with the ignition off. Could I have fried the gauge?
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Problem: Fuel tank near empty and the gauge (appropriately) reads near empty. I pull into a gas station and fill up. In spite of a full tank, the fuel gauge is still near empty and the warning light/chime is still on. I turned the car off and restarted it several times but no change.
I can't recall any and could not find any reference in the table of contents.
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My 01 sl2 wont start and the gauge says that the car is empty (before this problem, everything was working fine). I know that I have more than a half tank of gas, the car continuously turns over but wont start. I replaced the fuel pump and still it wont start (not to mention that the tank was more than half full at the time). I checked all the fuses and relays and everything seems fine. I am not even getting gas pumped to the filter.
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I have noticed when I turn the key on the needle moves down just a touch but goes back to full. I have disconnected the wiring harness for the fuel tank and reconnected it. I have tried tracing the harness back towards the front but no luck yet. I'm guessing it's a bad ground or something. And if so what was the solution.
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My gas gauge is intermittent. most of the time it reads right, but like 30% of the time it shows empty regardless of how full the tank is. What would cause this?
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Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
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2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
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Well besides the pyro breaking friday BEFORE live tuning,and the exhaust leak I gained on the way to Texas(not inpart of the pyro not working). Now the fuel gauge is stuck on full. It looks good,200+ miles and still on full. Could it be the gauge,or possibly just the sending unit? Maybe a fuse?
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
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My fuel gauge is stuck at the full mark. What to check and where to start?
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I have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
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I have a 97' F-150 4.6 L and I've been having some fuel gauge issues.... I filled up my tank up and I drove it 130 miles and it still said full tank... even when I had 1/2 I would start it and every time I started it it would jump up all the way to full and slowly drop down. Then randomly last night it started working... I noticed as I hit rough patches in the road and bumps it would usually fluctuate, but it would also fluctuate up... It read I have 3/4 tank last night and I go to start it today and its back up to full! I don't understand... Wouldn't a bad sending unit just stop all together?
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