My front heat controls work at start up occasionally. The heat will eventually come on in front after 15-30 minutes of the truck running. Needless to say this sucks for defrosting the front window during warm up. The rear controls work fine. I do have a couple that need replacing but the fan control isn't one. Temp & selectors. I've searched but haven't been able to find anything about same issue. Where to start?
View 14 RepliesI was driving yesterday and had no heat, tried rotating the dial several times, changed the vent setting and such and no heat front or rear. Then all of a sudden while waiting for a train to pass, the heat started working in the front and rear.
This morning I stated her up and had heat, but by the time I got to work (30 minutes) it was barely warm. Due to heated seats! It's 26 degrees out and I'm at work, so it'll be this evening before I get a chance to look at it.
2000 limited v10 4x4 in case it didn't show up.
Compressor clutch engages, lines are cold, when it works air is cold. A/C guy thinks the blend door isn't working right, is it vacuum operated or electric?
View 3 Replies5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
View 4 RepliesI have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
View 4 RepliesHave no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry XLE (4 cyl). The heat will only work when the A/C is on. If A/C is off, air will blow from the vents, but it is not hot. What part needs to be fixed/replaced?
View 7 RepliesSo after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
View 9 RepliesI have a 1992 Mazda 929 in which the heat does not work while the a/c does work perfectly. When the problem first occurred the fusible link for the A/C was broken (indicative of some electrical overload). I replace the fusible link and still no heat.
I went under the passenger side of the dash and changed every visible black box (fuse/sensors)that is attached to the heater core unit. After that the heat still did not work.In relation to this problem the care now runs hot whenever I am a red light or in stop and go traffic.This seems to me a that a mechanical gate from the engine is not opening to allow the hot fluid from the engine to get into the heater core.
We have a 96 t&c. The turn signals only work once in a while. Sometimes they start to work and then freeze. Sometimes they don't work at the beginning of a ride and start to work 10 minutes into it. It seems quite random.
View 14 RepliesI'm having issues with my 09 Camry. Yesterday my water pump shoot craps on me. SO this morning I replaced the water pump. After replacing the water pump I noticed that the heat would work only when the car is moving. So I went to the store again and bought a thermostat. Replaced that and the heat still only work when the car is in motion. So I checked the radiator cap it was bad I was able to hold it in my hand and spend it with the other hand. Ok replaced the radiator cap. I let the car sit at idle running and the heat worked shortly then it started to blow cool again. I checked the radiator hoses and the lower hose was cold right along with the thermostat housing.
View 10 Replies97 passat vr6. I only get warm air from the vents when I'm accelerating. As soon as I come to a stop it starts blowing cold air. Does this mean there is air in the system? If so how do I bleed it out?
View 1 RepliesSince delivery a month ago we have had 2 minor quirks.
keyless locking/unlocking rarely works. Tried using the 2nd key for a day or so but no difference. No light in the remote or indicator in the dash telling me battery is dead...
The rear courtesy lights above the rear seats only work occasionally. All button settings seem to be set correctly to come on when th doors open but they don't . Most of the time you cant even turn them on manually but sometimes they work..
I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on with my A/C. First time you start it for the day, works great, blows cold air, but will only do it for about five minutes, then the compressor kicks off.
I have tried by-passing the high and low pressure switches, compressor still will not kick on. Checked the air-gap, it is fine, and I actually removed the shim, so there is almost no gap at all now, didn't fix the problem.
I tried replacing the A/C clutch relay, no luck there. I can tell you that if I manually push the contact in on the A/C clutch relay, the compressor kicks in and runs.
The only thing I can think of at this point is the A/C control panel in the dash, but wanted to check before I buy that expensive part and replace.
If it matters, this is on a 2000 Excursion, with the 6.8l v-10
My A/C works fine when I am moving, but when i come to a stop it does not come out cold.
View 14 RepliesSo, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
I recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
The Transfer case motor works fine changing from 2H to 4H and back to 2H. Verified the drive shaft is locked in 4wd. Drive shaft is free when switching back to 2H. Hubs work fine and no problems on the vacuum side. Garage is 50+ degrees.
Very occasionally I can get into 4 Lo. (Neutral - complete stop - brake pedal depressed). My main question is could the Transfer case motor be bad if it works in and out of 4H with no problem? I have not seen any answer to this question from my searching. Also, could the dash switch be going? Last summer this started and now seems to be getting worse. This weekend I could only get into 4L one time. Where to start checking (motor on transfer case or dash switch or other)?
I have tried rolling slowly, backing up etc... Problem is I can easily hear the motor work when going to 4H and going to 4Lo (when it is working) most times when it is switched to 4Lo, there is complete silence like there is no power to the motor at all. Tapping the motor does not work. I pulled the electrical connectors off the motor and all pins on both plugs look clean and new.
Thought to first check the dash switch but not sure how to check it. The motor could be also a problem? Is there a way to remove the motor and check it?
I want to get this fixed by the spring since I use 4Lo every weekend when launching the boat. (Never has been deep enough in the water to get close to the Transfer case)..
I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
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