So I can clearly see the track bar clunk in and out about 1/4 inch when the wheel is turned in either direction...guessing its time for new bushings.
What's the latest and greatest on these? or is "whatever they have on sale at summet from moog" is fine?
OEM only? Truck has a 4" lift, stock bar attached to the drop bracket.
I have the CaryT V/ modded B 33" kit installed, and re-torqued after 200 miles. But since the install the EX pulls to the left and I have a clunking in the front end. The alignment shop said they have my alignment "dead nuts", and it must be my tires. Well I replaced my tires and wheels and I still have the pulling problem.
The clunking I believe is coming from the adjustable track bar, the torque wrench only goes to 250 ft/lbs so went to 250 and then tightened a little more. I have no way to measure the 396 ft/lbs in the specs.
So I replaced the stabilizer bushing on my 2005 Dodge Caravan, as there was a bit of clunking and some wobble in the front end. I'm sure there's more to do (other suspension parts to replace), but the bushings were obviously worn when I looked at them. The clunking is gone, and the suspension feels better, but now the bushings make a scrunching rubber sound when I drive over uneven pavement and also when I first accelerate. I assume its the stabilizer bar flexing, but also assume I shouldn't be hearing it. After all, who would want new noisy bushings? Nothing else is new on the front end (except rotors and pads).
View 19 RepliesI recently ran into the "clunking from the front end" problem with my Excursion. It is 2WD but this might apply to all. I had the clunk under my left foot while driving over a series of small bumps. It was a rapid clunking. One big bump, or things like speed bumps did not produce the noise or feel in my feet. Only rapid irregularities in the road at 35 mph or greater made it happen.
It made me crazy trying to figure it out. I tried everything. Both sets of swaybar links, shock mounts, track bar mounts, made sure brake calipers were tight, you name it. It showed its ugly head every time I hit small bumps in succession at speed. Even tried to re-seat the coil springs but that didn't work! My front bearings made NO noise. There was NO play in them by hand while up on jacks. I had taken them out and repacked them while replacing front brakes. At my wits' end, I went for a "hail mary" shot. I purchased new bearings. Took it all apart, packed the new bearings and replaced.
Low and behold! The damn "clunking" is now gone! So, in short, IF you have a clunking that nothing else seems to fix, just try replacing the bearings even IF you feel NO play in them. I couldn't believe that bearings that felt so tight by hand would be causing such clunking.
I've had a front end clunk best felt on the floorboards at very slow speeds on uneven ground. I've read for a month on this site on this issue and have replaced the ball joints and sway bar end links with Moog parts. New shocks also. Well I've improved but its still there. I cannot budge the trac bar bolts with breaker bar. The axle u bolts seemed loose so I tightened them but I'm not sure of the torque specs on them. What are the torque specs on the u bolts and where to go from here?
View 14 RepliesWhen accelerating from a stop, I get a clunking sound from the front end. I took some pics of the sway bar and I think it maybe loose. There is a gap between the bolt between the bar. Is this normal, or can I tighten it with the X on the ground or does it have to be up on a lift to properly tighten?
View 14 RepliesI plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
I need to replace the rubber axle bumper guards. I have a clunking noise from the left front going over bumps. Troubleshooting I found the left front axle bumper guard is missing, right side is missing chunks and dry rotted. I had a question about how they attach. The one that is missing looks like a rusted bolt snapped off. Is it safe to assume a bolt goes right thru the center of the bumper guard into the frame? Couldn't tell on the right side it is in bad shape. Right front bolt may have sheared off on the bottom and just held in on the top by what is left.
View 5 RepliesI have a noise in the front end that is only happening during suspension travel. It is really bad on bumpy roads. I thought it was my sway-bar end links but they are a year old and tight. I have checked the shocks and they are tight. It sounds like a clunking noise. Could the front drive axles be making this noise while not locked in?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 ford excursion limited when i drive a loud clunking noise comes from the front end, so i pulled the front passenger tire off and realized what looks like the axle bearing behind the hub assembly is rattling around. What part is that. I am going to post a picture tomorrow in the day light.
View 2 RepliesI'm attempting to install new x codes on the front of my 03 x and I was wondering if the track bar should be replaced? Bought one just in case, oh and any tricks in getting that bad boy off?
View 10 RepliesI am in need of new radius arm bushings (both sides). How to be able to just unbolt the sway bar, unbolt the shocks, dismount the coil springs so they fall out to the sides and then drop the rear of the radius arms so they could press out the old bushings and insert the new? This is a 2WD and I think the process would be same for an F250 of the same year (2000 - 2004). The reason I ask is because I really, really don't want to have to get down to the king pin level and completely remove the radius arms if I don't have to.
View 2 RepliesI changed out my front springs awhile ago and recently pulled off the track bar and replaced the bushings with Energy suspension bushings.
Today I noticed that the Ex is sitting a bit low on the drivers side. I measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground, drivers side 40 inches, passenger side 40 1/2 inches.
It was really hard getting the track bar back in after the bushing change. Would an adjustable track bar fix this?
This is for a 2004 Excursion 4x4 with a 6.0. Bilstein shocks, approx 1 1/2 years old.
I drive a 2006 Ford F350 4x4 Crew Cab. I think the radius arm bushings on my truck are bad. I get a clunk going over bumps on the left side in the front end.
I'm assuming it is the bushing in the rear of the radius arm, but I haven't taken it apart yet because I want to have the parts in hand. I ordered a bushing, part number 5C3Z3B203AA. But it looks too small when I hold it up to it. What is the part numbers for the radius arm bushings?
Or am I looking at the wrong thing for the clunking in the front end? I just did the ball joints with Moog both sides top and bottom. The shock bushings look alright. I have replaced the front sway bar bushings thinking that was it. What else could it be?
I'm scheduled for my first HPDE next week and I just discovered that the bushings on the front end links are worn. I don't notice any issue when taking curves and I'm asking due to the timeline of when the dealer will get the parts...it'll be cutting it close before the event.
View 3 RepliesMy Tig has been doing a sharp clunk (single) for awhile when going a bit too fast over speed bumps. I just ignored it, as I'm not flying over bumps regularly and I had just replaced the OEM struts all around. Now when accelerating over 60 kph the car has a side to side shimmy. Also when compressing or unloading the front end suddenly, like with dips on the road, makes it clunk. Checking the various suspension components?
View 6 RepliesSo this has been a lengthy process. Picked up the car on 7/12/13 Since then I have logged just under 3000 miles of what seems to be greatly efficient and pleasant driving.
The not so good: I started having popping noises from the front right side of the car. Took it in they replaced the front right Bearing and Wheelshaft due to there being a 1/10000th of an inch size difference between the one that was installed and the spec causing play and the popping noise that I heard intermittently after applying brakes in from reversing.
After a few days and a few more miles on the car the left side started doing the very same thing. Same parts replaced on the left side.
The Twist: The left side popping continues. The third repair attempted to tighten a subframe bolt that wasn't tightened to spec. That worked for about a day or so now the popping is back and louder than before.
As a side note that trim at the front of the dashboard where it meets the windshield cracks and creaks seemingly at random but if I touch it makes the same noises with the lightest touch.
I have had 2 mechanics tell me I need new front bushings and 1 said no. How would I know if I do? Would my car make any sounds etc...?
View 3 RepliesFront lower control arm bushings are completely separated. Looking to upgrade in some way to poly bushings or some other sort of performance setup.
View 4 RepliesYesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
When my ex shifts from 1st to 2nd I get a clunk. If I let off the gas right when it shifts then it shifts normally. Also if I can get the rpms to 2000 or higher then it shifts fine.
View 13 Replies