Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
On my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
While driving the other day I heard a loud bang under the ex. went back and found the rubber bump stop on the drivers side had rotted and fell off. After inspecting the passenger side it looks like it is about to fall off . I dont mind spending money to keep my equip in proper running order but I dont want to be taken advantage of doing it!
View 14 RepliesDid everyone trim their bumpstops on the front shocks with lowered springs? If not , any issues with bottoming out?
View 4 RepliesI bought this truck a little over a year ago and have put almost 30,000 miles on it. When I bought it, it had a clunk from the front end, but only when I went over a significant bump. It was most pronounced when I, for example, hit a speed bump at an angle and the body rocked back and forth. It's steadily been getting worse and now it's fairly concerning. It happens on pretty much every bump now. Additionally, I've developed a fairly significant shimmy under braking and a vibration over 65mph. I got into a fairly scary shimmy when trying to slow down as I was going down a mountain a few weeks ago.
The other day I started getting a grinding noise from the front right. It goes away when the brakes are pressed. I don't know if the grinding noise and vibration/shimmy are related to the clunking or if they are the result of a separate issue. I have plenty of brake pad and rotor on all corners and there is no perceptible play in any of the front end components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, shock mounts, etc.). I suspected the leaf spring bushings, but I supported the truck by the frame and still got no noticeable play when jerking things around by hand.
My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
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I have a 2002 Explorer 4 door with the flex fuel V6 engine with 157k miles. This has happened twice in a month. You got to start the truck and it starts to crank for a second and half and then it completely stops for a half second and then starts cranking again and fires up. The kicker is after it did this the instrument gauges, all of them, stayed at nothing when it started and then they all at the same time went to the highest level and then they all dropped back down to nothing and then rose to their perspective positions. My trip gauge reset it self to zero as well..
View 3 RepliesI have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
How to fix rear air suspension from dropping down to bump stops ...if I reset it every night it is fine but if not it will be down on bump stops by morning.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
My left rear suspension will leak down to bump stops unless I turn off auto suspension leveler. I can set suspension at high level turn off and it will stay that way i had set that way for 2 weeks and no leak but if I turn on leveler it may stay or it may leak down usually just left side somebody had said that my air bags were leaking so I tested it out all last month and find it hard to believe the bags are leaking if it will stay inflated a week or 2.
View 1 RepliesContinuing to find little easter eggs with my new to me 01 v10 excursion.
This issue is a bad vibration that feels like it's coming from the middle of the truck. It starts when I hit a bump and usually goes away when I hit another, but not always. At first I thought it was the road, then the transmission, but now with it starting when I hit a bump, I'm thinking a U-Joint on the driveshaft.
I considered the front axle u-joints but it doesn't matter which wheel I hit the bump with, be it a pot hole or man hole cover or seam in the road.
I'm not sure where to start. I'm doing the trans flush tomorrow and dropping the transfer case to see where that's leaking, so I'll be under there to try and figure it out.
I had a 7" icon installed with reservoir shocks installed. Rides pretty good driving unless I hit a dip or bump. When either of those are steep down or up I have a very hard hit. Could the shocks not have enough travel? I am at a loss to explain except it is a pretty hard contact. It looks like the shocks have about 3-4" of shaft exposed on the shock. Unfortunately I do not think I can post pictures yet.
View 7 RepliesJust experienced the teeth jarring "thud" from going over a speed bump. That was bad. I want to fix the issue right now for cheap. I plan on doing the full blown V/B mod swap out later, but don't want to buy new rubber when my current is nearly new. Dealership wanted ALOT of money for replacement leafs. This is just a temporary temporary measure to stop the slamming.
Front
Option 1: 2" Lift Shackles
Option 2: 3" Mini-Pack Leveling Kit
Rear
Option 1: OEM F-350 4" blocks
Option 2: Generic 4-5 Lift blocks
I really like the shackles for their price. Flip side though, I feel the mini-pack would firm up the ride a tad. My old F-250 rode like a truck, and the X just doesn't.
Are the factory front shocks long enough to support 2" of extension without breaking? I really didn't want to mess with the rear suspension, but she sits pretty level right now and I'm not a fan of the Bulldog look.
Down hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
My 2001 Excursion's 4x4 low and high do not work at all. Any chance it could be a simple issue? I bought the vehicle last spring and didn't notice any issues until it started to snow.
View 14 RepliesThe right rear door on my X is rattling when I hit a bump. The door is not closing tight enough. I can reproduce the noise by just pushing on the door. I don't see any adjustments that I can make.
View 14 RepliesMy 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
View 14 RepliesIt has a 5.4 v8, and won't start. It started fine when I bought it and quit a few days later. It turns on with the key, but when the key is turned to start it doesn't turn over. (Doesn't click, goes completely silent)
I can jump the positive post on the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter and it turns over and starts right up. This leads me to believe the starter itself is okay.
I replaced the fender mounted starter solenoid. Did not fix the problem. I am thinking about replacing the starter itself as they are pretty cheap and come with the solenoid attached but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
Because it worked and quit so suddenly I feel like it is a component issue and not a wiring issue. But I could be completely wrong, and that is why I am here.
I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
I tried oiling the hinge and installing a new wiper but it seems like the spring isn't strong enough.
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