Ford Excursion :: Front Carrier Leaking At The Bottom Of Ring And Pinion Cover
Sep 30, 2013
My front carrier is leaking at the bottom of the Ring and Pinion Cover. I am going to pull the cover and replace the gasket. I am also a believer in Amsoil full synthetics, should I use the Severe Gear 75W-90, Severe Gear 75W-110 or the Severe Gear 75W-140. How many ounces does it take. I presume to fill until the bottom of the fill hole? What are the torque specifications for the bolts?
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I just had my oil changed and was told that my rack and pinion was leaking also my valve cover leaked I had the gasket change about a year ago an the leak is so slight it wont even show up in my dip stick, is it possible the valve cover leak is getting on the rack boot. Also can I change just the boot car has 15000mi in great shape an well maintained.....
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I have a 1999 7.3 psd F-450. It's rigged out for welding with a Lincoln SA-200 engine driven welder. My overall weight is approx. 11,500 lbs. and I rarely tow with it. It has a 4 speed automatic and 4.89 ratio gears in it now. I bought it with 245/70/19.5 tires. Stock size is 225/70/19.5. I am going broke trying to keep the fuel light from staying on all the time, and I am considering changing the gear ratio. My questions are; Is this a wise investment, as far as cost vs. gain? I also need to know if it may create a higher risk of other mechanical failures? I need to research what other ring and pinion ratios can be used in the ford 10.5 12 bolt rear axle. Money is hard to come by these days, and even harder to keep. I cannot afford a costly mistake if the funds can be more effective elsewhere.
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I noticed on my 03 excursion on both sides of the front axle there is a circle plastic o ring behind the u joint that is lose? Nothing is leaking and no signs of leak marks ever. Kind of looks lik a spacer ring of some sort because its at least 1/8th inch thick plastic. Also some time ago I posted about a whistling noise but never got a answer but its only there when im in 4wd there is a whistling noise from my right side and my locking hub when I turn it the hub seems lose and has a crunchy feeling to it. I just bought it a few weeks ago and now I am running into a whistling noise and noticed theres a piece of plastic that looks like a spacer....
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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My 2000 Ranger has been leaking fluid around the front Diff cover so I decided to pull the cover and reseal it. It was obvious that this was going to be a tight job but I didn't anticipate running into a bolt that can't be removed because interference from the front cross member.
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How hard is it to replace the front diff cover seal in an 03? Mine is leaking like a sieve... On a better note, it's the only leak I could find under my new-to-me Explorer.
Also found a broken coil spring in the rear, explains why it's leaning to one side. That is getting fixed later this week.
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I took the plastic cover in front of the radiator off to clean the radiator and condenser. It directs air through the condenser before it gets to the radiator and I was wondering if it would cool the engine without it (if you don't need real cold ac air) . Without it the air can go over the top of the condenser and it is still blocked by the flap that stops airflow above the radiator. Also, I am wondering if the fact that the condenser has nothing in it affects the radiator cooling, and is it bad for the AC system to be empty. (My AC doesn't work)
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I recently installed front and rear Mag-Hytek diff covers and the front had a small leak. I thought I had gouged the housing during removal of the factory cover, so I set aside time to remove the Mag-Hytek and repair the housing. I just removed the new cover and upon inspection, there is no gouge. There is a slight scratch, but not in the area of the leak.
Upon further inspection it appears as though the o-ring wasn't properly sealing. There is a slight rust coloring where the o-ring was seated against the housing, running from where the left lower spring shackle touches the diff housing, to the bottom of the housing. The rest of the o-ring route looks clear (no rusty coloring where the o-ring was seated).
Is it possible that the spring shackle is too close to the diff, causing the new cover to not be able to seal properly? (The truck had a lift on it when I bought it. When I installed the Bilsteins, I noted that the old shocks were installed very "amateurish", so I suppose it's possible the springs were as well.)
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Well, I am getting a vibration In 4x4 99 f250 sd, pinion seals leaking and it has a little bit of movement. I have done a pinion bearing in a crown vic I had before. But not a dana 50. What am I in for, I searched but couldn't find a step by step , how long does it take a back yard guy.
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Pinion seal on my truck is leaking. At auto parts store they gave me National seal part number 4278. It does not fit it is too small.I went back and other seal they have is too big. What is the part number?
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I changed my rear axle grease a couple of weeks ago and now I see some fluid coming out of the pinion seal. Do you think I overfilled it or do I need a new seal?
How hard is it to replace the pinion seal, will I need a new crush washer and will it knock out the preload?
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I took my 2010 Camry LE for its 70K service to the mechanic to find out there is a leak in the rack and pinion. The tech said that this might happen due the wear and tear as the seal might get eroded or so. He showed me the leaking part and interestingly I never found any oil leak on the garage floor until the day. Anyways I just got the basic powertrain warranty on my camera so will have to take the repair costs on my own. They suggested replacing the rack and pinion with a quote of $1.4K (out the door which includes tax, labor and wheel alignment etc). Not sure if its a rip off being a novice in the auto field. Now my question is, is there a way to get this leak sealed or should i go for the replacement of rack and pinion? Also is it dangerous to drive around in the car which has this leak?
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Noticed some spotting in front of the house, and saw some leaking coming from the driver side near the axle. I'm guessing it's the axle seal leaking. I recently switched in to 4x4 about a week ago, shortly after that I noticed the leak. I have a trip to San Antonio coming up in the middle of Feb, about a 650 mile round trip. Can I continue with the plans and get it fixed afterwards?
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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I just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
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Alright, yesterday while I am at work, wife calls me up and tells me the Ex is leaking coolant. I got home a little before dark and looked at it. Right behind the front passenger fender well, it appears that either a bolt came out of a bracket, or someone took it off for something and was too lazy to put it on, allowing the metal elbows to swing over and rub on a bracket. So now I have a hole in that elbow, and I need to the excursion for our trip over Christmas leave. Where I might get an elbow to replace that one? Also, need to know the bolt size for that heater hose bracket to keep it from happening again? If I can't find one pretty soon, I will have to JBWeld or something it temporarily to hold us through until after Christmas.
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Its been awhile since I have been on. Everything has been running great for me until I found my passenger side front axle leaking fluid. I'm sure something has been posted on here but I have limited access to internet right now and need to know what I am getting into to change the seals. From what I have found there is an inner seal in the pumpkin and then an outer seal and dust cover. Are both of these easy to change? Are there any special tools needed? Do I need to remove the gears in the pumpkin? If so, is this difficult and any special tools required for this?
Mine is a 2001 V10-6.8, 4x4 no mods at this point.
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When I was going through the engine compartment of the recently acquired 7.3 yesterday, I noticed the power steering pump cap was not on properly and only had one of the two tabs locked. I pulled it off and discovered that the o ring seal was broken.....so I went to advance and found an o ring that fit properly and replaced it. Noticed that the PS fluid was very dark and discolored. When I would start it up whenever I turned the wheel it made a weird noise, not a whine but more of a low pitched sound. Then it went away. Figured I needed to address it asap.
I had the power steering system flushed today through the pump at a local fluid change company with Mercon V before any further damage could be done and they told me the extracted fluid had water in it because some of the fluid was a light pink. As well as very dirty. I bet that the loose cap let all sorts of dirt and water in. The rest of the fluids looked good.
I have no issues with steering or brakes, but there is now a slight hum at times now that I did not notice before. Mainly at low rpms. Brakes are actually better now than they were before. The more I drive it the less it seems to hum.
Eventually am going to flush near the booster and put in a magna filter and synthetic but I couldn't leave it the way it was.Should I be concerned with the low, intermittent "hum" at times or is that just air that needs to be worked out of the system over the next few days?
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Looking for a replacement part for the Copper Ring that bulb screws into? Attached is a picture I copied from a previous post. Notice the copper ring. On mine 2000 Excursion one of these rings is broken.
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I just joined up after purchasing a CPO 2010 Prius IV. Love the car but after taking a closer look I noticed that one side of the bottom black plastic cover was drooping on one side. Upon closer inspection I noticed that there was a screw and plastic Grommet combination that was not locked into place. After unscrewing the screw, I tried to put the grommet back in place but noticed that it couldn't fit because (I believe) the white bumper portion where the grommet goes broke off. I compared it to the other side of the car and yes it does seem like part of the plastic top portion that is connected to the bumper broke off.
I inspected the bottom some more and it seems like there are a good number of screws missing and a large plastic piece that is the front tire well is also very loose.
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