took the Ex in today because the front AC is blowing ambient temp air. I had them re-charge the system and they tell me no leaks were found but the air never blew cool. Took it in today and they just quoted me the following.
AC Manifold P&A LAB 3.0 5C72 190850 DA - 68oz R134 P&A LAB 1.0 - AC Oil/Dye Kit P&A
Is this an easy task to do?
Took the Ex in today because the front AC is blowing ambient temp air. I had them re-charge the system and they tell me no leaks were found but the air never blew cool. Took it in today and they just suggested the following.
AC Manifold P&A LAB 3.0 5C72 190850 DA
68oz R134 P&A LAB 1.0
AC Oil/Dye Kit P&A
Have you ever had to do this kind of work? Is this an easy task to do?
I have a 2007 Prius. I turned on the AC for the first time this spring last week and the air blowing out of the vent was ambient temperature. When I looked through the sight glass with the AC running, it looks like there's fluid in there, but it's not moving anywhere and the evaporator pipe did not feel cool. I also replaced the 12 V battery a few months ago, with an optima yellow top battery.
What's wrong with the AC? Will a recharge do it fix this, or did I mess something up with the battery. There were a lot of warnings about "resetting" the system after you have the 12V out, but I didn't seem to have any problems that were described as symptomatic of needing a reset.
I do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
We are having an issue with the front air not blowing cool all the time. Sometimes if we hit a bump or something its like something is jogged and it blows colder but the rear air always blows cold. Also the front air blows colder with the rear air on. I put gauges on it and I have the right amount of refrigerant in it. What I can do.
View 10 RepliesThe front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
View 14 RepliesOn a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
View 7 RepliesEvery time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
My v10 Ex blowing black smoke, RPM goes up and down, when put it in gear stalls and dead, engine is shaking and all this happened after one small 80mi trip, it was perfectly running until I turn off the engine .for almost 2 minutes. So what to do ?? And there is no code .
View 6 RepliesThe front a/c on my ex on the highest blower motor speed blows out the vents like its on low, but I can hear the motor blowing at full speed. It's not blowing out of defrost or floor unless I switch it. On lower settings I can barely feel any air at all. Only does this rarely. Could it be my vacuum pump?
View 4 RepliesI'm not sure if on my 2002 Excursion limited the air vents are controlled thru vacuum or electronically. Where to start. Where to even begin looking to correct this problem. I'd rather not have to pay the dealer prices unless it is something out of my league of fixing.
View 4 RepliesI am only at 141,000 miles and I'm seeing blue smoke while I idle! It started as a small puff of blue smoke when cold starting up...now it is much more consistent. I am also getting a diag trouble code of P0674 (glow plug in cylinder 4) can that be the cause? I'm nervous since I didn't watch my tech put oil in the truck at the last oil change...I think he put four gallons in instead of 15 quarts...is that a prob?
View 1 RepliesMy 02 V-10 Ex seems to be blowing Air from the front vents up to the Defrost unless it go through a series of events-- Hit Auto then forward Air then the fan has to be a 4 only. It will blow forward vents then go back and forth from theirr to the defrost. Also the Temp seems to be much hotter then it should.
Took a interstate trip this weekend though and it seems to blow much colder and do a little bit better staying in the front vents however still goes back and forth. Im in FL and its HOT!!!! The only thing I know is that its a vacuum system.. and that again its HOT in the truck as a daily driver.
Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
My 05 has always had good air conditioning front and back but around three weeks ago it quit blowing cold. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. So I reinstalled the line, put a vacume on the system for 20 mins then let it sit for another 20 to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed good so I re charged the system. Now my front blows nice and cold but the rear is warm?
My pressures at idle are around 40psi low side and 200ish on the high side when the engine is warmed up and the ambeint temp is around 74 f. If I turn it to the warmest setting for the rear it gets noticeably hotter so I'm thinking the blend door is working properly?? I've read that the thermal expansion valves can give some trouble so I pulled the jack and cubby out to gain access to it. I tried tapping on it with no gains. Also the top left line seems to be pretty cold coming out of it too the evaporator but the line coming out of the evap is room temp. I was very careful not to let any junk get into the lines when they were apart for the line repair but I'm thinking maybe some junk has plugged up the TXV?
About 11pm 2 nights ago on our way to Florida, hit a nasty bump on I-95 in SC and there went the fuse to the tail lights and dash lights (#17 I believe). Obviously something shook loose from the jarring of that bump and blew the fuse. I've blown this fuse before, but I thought it was due to a cracked LR tail light assembly holding water, which was replaced last weekend.
Now I replace the fuse, and as soon as I hit the headlight switch...it blows again. Holding my breath running around FL at night until the man pulls me over for no tail lights. So far, here's what work has been done:
- Replaced entire LR tail light assembly with new one, new bulbs, new bulb plugs - Sprayed electrical cleaner all over harness plugs, and used electrical grease to hook it back up
- Sprayed electrical cleaner into both trailer plugs
- Did replace both batteries last weekend - noticed on the drivers side battery appears to be some relays next to the battery on the fenders - one appeared to be beat up probably due to prior battery replacements - no clue what they do
I am at a total loss. Worse fear is I can't figure this out and I have to turn it over to the dealership
I have a 2000 Excursion V10, I keep blowing the #19 10A miniature fuse while I am going down the road. All gauges and speedometer all of sudden die but the vehicle keeps running until I turn it off. When I try to restart she won't fire until I put a new fuse in.
View 14 RepliesHeat is blowing through my dash vents in front of the windshield with the controls OFF!
View 14 RepliesMy Excursion keeps blowing fuse #45, a/k/a "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed"
Going to have to go in shop. Seems to be a short in the steering column.
Then the dash lights go dim, headlights die, engine sputters and dies. I am guessing alternator most likely.
These two things might be related? Maybe there's not a short in the steering column, I dunno.
Ok I keep blowing fuse #3 in the interior compartment. Let me preface this by saying I have my always-on power for my rear view mirror which is the display for my back up camera, pulled from a wire that is fed by this fuse. The camera is on reverse power only and it pulled from the reverse lights in the rear of the truck, but the always-on power is pulled from this location for the display. Doesn't matter if I have always-on power to camera if the display fuse it has blown and I am guessing the mirror power is the source of my problem.
The fuse controls the OBD and the cigarette lighter and it seems to blow every time I plug anything into that power port that is more serious than say a phone charge. When this fuse goes then my mirror display is down, and back up camera is mainly used for hitching up a trailer solo. My camera is pointed straight down at my hitch ball and it makes hitching up by myself very easy.
I have a volt meter but not sure where I need to test, and well what a bad number is when I do test it? The mirror instructions say to pull always on power under the dash and the right wires are attached, and the fuse rating matches, so don't think it's a too much being pulled issue. Maybe a bad connection or maybe a relay issue? I had this fuse blow several times before I had the power mirror but it's certainly gotten worse.