Ford Excursion :: Flushing V-10 Radiator To Get Crystal Clear Water?
Sep 11, 2012
You will get wet but not scalded but is nice to get it done and not that hard. (revised).
1; Pull the cap, bottom hose, and open the petcock on a cold engine.
2; Remove the thermostat with a 10mm socket (easy) and put the housing back on lightly.
3; Install garden hose in top and turn on full blast, and turn the heater on.
4; Start the engine, grab the hanging bottom hose and push it onto the bottom radiator neck about 1/4", wait a couple minutes until the garden hose overflows at the top of the plastic radiator chamber. (yes you will get wet), pull the bottom hose loose, repeat 3-4 times until the dirty water is scavenged from the block and rad. (important step).
5; Shut off water at garden hose, stop the engine, replace the bottom hose and replace the thermostat with the 195 degree one (stock) if it hasn't been done lately. (they don't last and work well forever) The rubber O-ring goes on the top.
6; Start the engine and run the garden hose at the top the same speed as the water is coming out the petcock at the bottom. Note how clear the water is coming out and idle the engine until is runs clear. (about 10 minutes). The water might get hot at this time but you're not under the truck at this point.
7; Stop the engine, close the petcock, remove the heater hose from the front of the intake manifold, put 3 to 4 gallons of undiluted antifreeze in (50% undiluted antifreeze 50/50 will give you a range of 34 degrees BELOW zero to +265 degrees F) , fill with distilled water until the water comes out the pipe fitting on the manifold, replace hose, fill to line, and check the level every day for the next 2-3 days.
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I was flushing the radiator on my 1995 V6, 3 Liter, 5 speed. And absent mindedly, I fired up the engine for a minute to "flush" it out, but hadn't put the water/flush in it yet.
Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.
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Looking for post with instructions on how to clear the drain ports for sunroof and any cavities that collects water such as in engine compartment where brake master cylinder is located.
Tried to look for front sunroof ports... cannot see it. Discovered that I have about 3/4" of water still trapped under the master cylinder area... cannot find the drainports underneath it. Probably have to use a wire to poke through from top.
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I've noticed water accumulated beneath the clear lens covering my headlamp assembly in my 2007 Toyota Highlander Hybrid headlamp. The dealer says the entire lamp assembly needs to be replaced. It seems this should be a simple gasket issue with the clear lens cover.
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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I've parked my R32 mk4 over 5 years ago and recently I started the engine and I noticed over heating and then noticed there is oil coming out of the radiator water reservoir / it's thick and brown !!
I thought about it and went full overall opened the whole thing the head and pistons and everything and I couldn't find any traces or anything broken ,, (I wanted to do that since a long time).
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Long story short is that my radiator malfunctioned and mixed transmission and coolant. I took it to a shop and they did a flush of both the radiator and transmission after putting in a brand new radiator. I drove it home and it has sat for a week. I popped the hood today and there is a little pit of pink transmission in the radiator no big deal but the transmission dip stick is thick and pink so I know there is water still in the transmission. I have already concluded I will need a new transmission and was curious what will I need to have replaced? Just the clutch, the entire transmission, or something else? Also would it be cheaper to have it overhauled or find a rebuilt transmission and pay to have it swapped? I understand quite a bit about cars but when it comes to transmission I have not knowledge.
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I have a 1985 Toyota Celica Gt-s, and i have quite a bit of oil in the radiator. The car does not overheat, and I am wondering what exactly causes the oil to get in the radiator. I just purchased a full engine gasket set, and a timing kit. I am going to replace the headgasket, and the timing. I am not sure if the headgasket is the reason oil is in the radiator, but I am hoping so. Also there is no water in the oil, just oil in the radiator.
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I successfully replaced the radiator on my 2003 Ford excursion (LMD, V10, gas). I filled her up with coolant and started her and turned on the air full blast.
Noticed though that she is now leaking somewhere between the engine and the transmission pan.Where and what to check?
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I did all the flushing, cap, thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze, etc, fixes but when I floor it going up an on ramp on an 85 degree day it will go into limp mode / fail safe mode. Bottom hose?
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This is on my 05. I assume its for fog lights. Is that correct? If so, where is the fog light switch? I don't have one near my headlight switch. Is this one of those things where everyone gets the harness, but the option is only on the switch if equipped?
Here is the harness....
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I took the plastic cover in front of the radiator off to clean the radiator and condenser. It directs air through the condenser before it gets to the radiator and I was wondering if it would cool the engine without it (if you don't need real cold ac air) . Without it the air can go over the top of the condenser and it is still blocked by the flap that stops airflow above the radiator. Also, I am wondering if the fact that the condenser has nothing in it affects the radiator cooling, and is it bad for the AC system to be empty. (My AC doesn't work)
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This label is on the left side of the radiator support of my 04 Excursion, 6.0 PSD. What this means?
[URL] .....
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If my coolant temp runs around 185, how does the the radiator to cool the transmission fluid if it goes to the radiator after the tranny cooler?
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I have a 2007 Camry with V6, automatic. My wife drives it daily and she said that a light came on saying water temp and it started to run hot. When I looked at it I could not see fluid anywhere and the reservoir along with the radiator was very low, almost a gallon of fluid to fill it up. I took the shroud from over the top of the radiator and along the top of the radiator and where it meets the fins the pink dried fluid was along it. I could also see where it looks like it's getting onto the electric fan. At first I thought the water pump was going (147K) but now I think it might be the radiator is bad....
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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I have a 2000 Ex with 252,000 miles. Where it is extremely hilly (Ozark Mountains). I tow a 6400 lb travel trailer. What I am having problems with is the Ex is running extremely hot when towing and climbing hills. Not in the red, but damn close. No problems what so ever when not towing. No problems when towing on level ground. I know the Ex is working hard, but I want to keep it running cooler. I have flushed the radiator literally 20 times and have done 2 chemical flushes. Is it time to just replace the radiator? How many passes does the stock radiator have? What about a bigger water pump? I have the 5.4 motor, which I love so no bashing my little V8. It has all the power I need. I don't need to climb hills doing 90mph.
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Today while I was working I walked back to my truck after finishing the job and saw a red fluid leaking from behind the front bumper, I crawled underneath and saw that it was leaking from somewhere between the plastic cover for the fan and the radiator but I couldn't find exactly where it was coming from, I drove 30 miles before I got to the job site with my ac on, and my ac was making a noise that seemed like a whirling noise but I kinda brushed it off as the condenser going bad or whatever. After I found my truck leaking I decided to drive 20 miles to the next job site but this time I left the ac off and nothing happened the temperature gauge didn't even go up, I checked underneath when I finished driving and there was no more coolant leaking from the radiator. I drove it an additional 50 miles before I got home and still no leaks. Could the bad ac system cause coolant to leak? I have a 2000 excursion 5.4L V8
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