Ford Excursion :: Exhaust Leak On Passenger Side
Mar 12, 2012
We bought the X like almost year an a half or two years ago. Since the day we bought her shes had an exhaust leak on the pass side. Ive been a mechanic forever and it didn't bother me at purchase. Well I finally get around to it this last weekend. My son and I get to repairing her on saturday. Well we got manifold off with the intention of ordering a new set of headers. Well Luke talks me into just replacing the broken stud (got lucky only had 1 on the pass side). And replacing the gasket. So I took the manifold to get resurfaced,got the new studs and gaskets.
We reassy everything. It went well, start her up and wow shes finally quiet. I love it. So were sitting there admiring our work (took most the day as we had to drive 40 minutes away 1 way to get parts and angle drill alone). As were sitting there chattin for 5 minutes im like do you hear that.....Its getting louder luke WTF.....WELL IN 5 MINUTES THE DAMN LEAK IS BACK... It sounds like its back at the original place but while listing with a hose it sounds like its also at the y pipe. But the sound can be traveling......
I def am not a fan of Autozones felpro gaskets but they have worked in the past. But they look NOTHING like the factory units but still should work. Well I searched all weekend and read tons of posts on what to get. As I def want to replace the y pipe also. In the end said ok,what the hell. I just got off the phone with BANKS. I ordered headers,y pipe,gaskets,etc. I didnt want to spend that much but after pricing headers (from all manuf's and a new y pipe) the BANKS complete system wasn't much more...
Kit should be here tomorrow or wed at the latest. And I just want my X to be exhaust leak free. Im not big on taken pics during install of stuff but ill try and ill post up after it done.
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have an exhaust leak on the passengers side of my 2006 F-150 5.4 triton. If I do the repair which is the correct way to do it? Do I replace just the blown out gasket?
Do I need to buy a new exhaust manifold and gasket kit, with exactly what parts should I buy in the kit? Or do i need to replace both sides?
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2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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So broke down today and have no tools, in a city I don't live in. Huge coolant leak behind the block on the passenger side. Luckily we broke down right at a mechanics shop. They need to take off the manifold to get to the rusted out metal piping in back.
I am new to the V10. Looking for information on what could be leaking back there? I know I could do this myself but I need to know what parts I might be dealing with first. And its tight quarters back there.
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I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
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2003 Limited 6.0 130K. Just took a 1000 mile trip for spring break. While away, I noticed a small leak near the front passenger side of the truck. It is red so I assumed it was transmission fluid. It is leaking from, the best I can describe, a small housing that looks like it might be a filter near the tire (it looks like the old style canister oil filter housings). All the hoses are clean and where the hoses go into the radiator are clean. Is this an easy fix? I am a bit worried about trying to get the thing off without damaging the hoses.
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Can't put it off any longer. Cold start I am getting the exhaust leak at the manifolds on an '01 V10. It's worse on the passenger side than on the driver side. So, I know the bolts/studs fatigue and snap off causing this. With my luck probably flush in the head. So who has done these and how bad was it? If I'm going to do this I am going to swap in a set of shorty headers instead of installing gaskets.
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This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
[URL] ....
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Got a shudder noise similar to an exhaust leak on my Excursion V10. I have no codes ... engine idles and revs fine.. Only hear noise when under load. Goes away when you let off the gas.
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2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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so i cant quite tell where its coming from, but here is a picture. it seems to be coming from just even with the drivers side exhaust manifold towards the back. from what i can see the top valley looks clean. it seems to only leak while its running. and it leaks quite a lot. its close to the bell housing so im guessing a rear main but i don't know. i hope its not!
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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I have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
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I have an 01 Ford ranger with a 3.0 six cylinder. The passenger side exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the housing around the a/c evaporator. The local dealer said both converters need changing for a mere $2400. Took it to a local muffler shop where did a test and said they were ok. But it still doesn't want to run and the muffler guy unhooked the exhaust from the manifold and it still wouldn't run so he said. And to me out looks like 5 converters not just two.
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I have a leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. Its a little tough getting at it to tell if its a lose bolt, crack or bad gasket. What would be the best way to get at this area? Should i remove the tire and wheel well or is their a better way. If i can get at it i may replace the manifold all together.
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So I started my truck this morning and it sounds like air rushing out from the driver side of the engine. I currently have my ICP unplugged due to a bad sensor, will be replacing it on Sat. Also I have been having an issue with my turbo but I don't think that it's related as I here the air rushing sound when at idle as well at when driving. It seems to be a bit louder when the engine is cold but I could also be crazy about that.
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