Can't put it off any longer. Cold start I am getting the exhaust leak at the manifolds on an '01 V10. It's worse on the passenger side than on the driver side. So, I know the bolts/studs fatigue and snap off causing this. With my luck probably flush in the head. So who has done these and how bad was it? If I'm going to do this I am going to swap in a set of shorty headers instead of installing gaskets.
View 14 Repliesreplacing exhaust manifolds on my 2008 f250 super duty got a broken stud on right front top tried to drill it out but there's no room somebody said to weld a nut to the broken stud but if I do this will the weld mess up the aluminum head.
View 1 RepliesSo i replaced my IAC(Idle Air Control) Valve and the idiling is much better! However my shaking/jerking has not stopped. I have found the problem which is the exhaust manifolds! I was wondering if when i replace them which i am probably going to get headers should i use metal gaskets?
View 14 RepliesWe bought the X like almost year an a half or two years ago. Since the day we bought her shes had an exhaust leak on the pass side. Ive been a mechanic forever and it didn't bother me at purchase. Well I finally get around to it this last weekend. My son and I get to repairing her on saturday. Well we got manifold off with the intention of ordering a new set of headers. Well Luke talks me into just replacing the broken stud (got lucky only had 1 on the pass side). And replacing the gasket. So I took the manifold to get resurfaced,got the new studs and gaskets.
We reassy everything. It went well, start her up and wow shes finally quiet. I love it. So were sitting there admiring our work (took most the day as we had to drive 40 minutes away 1 way to get parts and angle drill alone). As were sitting there chattin for 5 minutes im like do you hear that.....Its getting louder luke WTF.....WELL IN 5 MINUTES THE DAMN LEAK IS BACK... It sounds like its back at the original place but while listing with a hose it sounds like its also at the y pipe. But the sound can be traveling......
I def am not a fan of Autozones felpro gaskets but they have worked in the past. But they look NOTHING like the factory units but still should work. Well I searched all weekend and read tons of posts on what to get. As I def want to replace the y pipe also. In the end said ok,what the hell. I just got off the phone with BANKS. I ordered headers,y pipe,gaskets,etc. I didnt want to spend that much but after pricing headers (from all manuf's and a new y pipe) the BANKS complete system wasn't much more...
Kit should be here tomorrow or wed at the latest. And I just want my X to be exhaust leak free. Im not big on taken pics during install of stuff but ill try and ill post up after it done.
This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
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Got a shudder noise similar to an exhaust leak on my Excursion V10. I have no codes ... engine idles and revs fine.. Only hear noise when under load. Goes away when you let off the gas.
View 8 Replies2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
View 7 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
View 3 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesActually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
View 2 RepliesIs there any condition that would make a Ford Escape have an intermittent exhaust leak that could come into the cab?
View 18 RepliesI have had an exhaust leak under the hood of my 09' F150, XLT, 4.6 3V for some time now and decided to get it checked out. I took to the local stealer and as i suspected its the manifolds. There are 4 studs on the left and one stud on the right sheared off. Ford quoted $1400 for replacing both mainfolds and extracting the broken studs. This would give me the exact same manifolds that were on the truck from the factory and started leaking at 78,000 miles.
So I decided to take the truck to a local speed shop that I have used in the past for other things. The mechanic there said to just buy a high quality set of stainless headers, stage 8 locking fasteners, and copper gaskets. He will install. I went with JBA shortys from AutoAnything.com and the mentioned hardware from Jegs.
So basically for around $100 more I get headers that probably will last the life of the truck. I am quite displeased with the exhaust issues that Ford has had and known about for over 20 years. The service manager at Ford said they replace manifolds with broken studs on a regular basis. He also said it was a wise choice to go with the headers instead of the manifolds even though they will not install them. That says a lot about the confidence of the Ford service department in their parts and vehicle designs.
Its a little sad that a 6 year old truck with only 78,000 miles....
So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
So after remotely starting my truck on a cold morning, I walk up to the vehicle and notice a small puddle of water near the middle of the truck (not near the engine where the A/C usually drips), and I can also hear a slight ticking noise that I never heard before. I stoop down and can see water dripping from the exhaust (I think off the back of the resonator?). I snap a few pics and decide I'll take a closer look later, but curiously when I return from my drive, the leak and noise are gone.
With 76K miles on the truck, is it possible I've developed a pinhole sized perforation or leak in the factory exhaust system (or maybe there's a loose fitting) that is only present when the engine is cold, but "seals" itself up once the engine is warm and the metal has expanded? I only see the water puddle and hear the noise when remotely starting the truck on cold mornings, never on warm days or after driving around town.
Found this a few weeks back and the guy still has it. He just keeps re-listing it and I keep seeing it. Since I need to slow down and just chill for a bit could I snag this and bolt it up? Might give me enough powah to make me feel like I have a 6.0 for a few weeks
MagnaFlow 3" Exhaust
Well it's been a while since I have been here. My Ex has started a vibration in the front but I don't feel it in the steering wheel. I feel it in the floor board on my feet. It also makes a sound with the vibration. Kinda a thumping sound but not really. If that makes sense. I plan on putting it up on jacks this weekend and checking the front. I'm wondering if it is a hub stuck in locked portion and spinning the axle. I did use 4wd not too long b4 I noticed it.
View 5 RepliesWife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
View 6 Replies