Ford Excursion :: Error Code P1201 - EGE Valve?
Feb 8, 2013
I am getting an error code of 1201. Is this the ERG valve? How do I change out? Looking for Pictures or diagram?
View 5 RepliesI am getting an error code of 1201. Is this the ERG valve? How do I change out? Looking for Pictures or diagram?
View 5 RepliesHave 2001 suburban with the 5.3. Mechanic has replaced EGR valve 3Xs. Error code specifies "replace EGR valve". Each time car runs fine for 4-6 weeks (500-1000 miles) and then service engine light comes on. Shortly thereafter the car will not idle correctly (under 1,000 rpm) and will die at stop. I think the EGR valves are getting clogged up with carbon. Car has 130,000 miles on it.
View 4 RepliesMy Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.
View 3 RepliesI bought my Excursion about 3 months ago. So far I've replaced the Alt and battery all because it randomly die on me. I guess no the issue isnt the Alt or battery but an error P0231.
P0231 Low Voltage Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
[URL]....
I've replaced what I thought was the fuse but not 100 percent sure. I cleared the error message and now it's still doing the random turn off. Now I'm getting an error P1000. Tried google search with very little success.
So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
I am getting error code po457 Evaporative emissions error, I am told the canister purge valve could be bad.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
View 7 RepliesQuite a few posts on this on the V10 forum. Mine Ex has been hesitating after starting (bad after a few days of no use) so I took off the old one and put on a new one. I'll clean up the old one and use it as a backup. Best to lay your body on old carpet on top of the engine, cause this value is right under the windshield, behind the air intake. Took about an hour with some swearing involved. DO NOT DROP tools, screws, gaskets, etc!
First few pics of where it's at .....
I tried starting up the Ex last night and it would not stay running unless I pressed on the gas and once I let go of the gas it would die. It had been pretty cold in Austin the last few days and I hadn't driven the Ex since Sunday.
So today I went to start it just now after it warmed up pretty good and the sun has been out. It would not start on key crank alone, I had to hit the gas but once I hit the gas it would stay running so I left it running for a few minutes then turned it off then waited a few minutes and turned it back on with the key alone and now it starts without needing to press the gas!
Is this just a product of the cold weather, was the IAC Valve froze stuck? Is that something I'd never have to worry about in the summer?
Should I clean the IAC? If so what cleaner recommended? Should I replace it? Will happen again after a cleaning?
I was super bummed when it would not start last night but I'm glad it's running again! I'm sure towing this beast would be expensive if I got stranded somewhere else but home.
In my searching for this problem I found a guy with a different car who said he had to keep both feet on the gas and brake (which was dangerous he said) but was the only way to get it home without paying for a tow truck.
While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
I received a new CD for father's day and tried to put it in the factory 6 disk player and once I removed the cd I wanted to and tried to load the new one, I got a cd error message. Now it won't even play the 5 cd that are in there and I can't get it to eject them or accept the new one. Is there an easy fix, or am I looking at a new radio? I'm guessing I won't find one like the factory one, but will an aftermarket one work with the steering wheel controls and all?
View 9 RepliesMy 2004 Prius with 224k miles is throwing a P0080 code (exhaust valve solenoid stuck high). So, I brought it to the dealer. They just called me saying that the main battery needs to be replaced. My battery graph shows that it's ok and the hybrid functionality works flawlessly.
View 19 RepliesHave had my Excursion for a few weeks now. Took it to the dealer for some maintenance on the brakes. Had them do oil and fuel filters while it was there. Dealer calls to tell me that the water drain valve had broken off when they tried to drain water and the needed to replace the housing. Picked it up today and this is what they found when they pulled off that assembly...
View 11 RepliesThese are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
I was asked these questions tonight, and realized I didn't know the answers. I have "E" load range tyres.
1. Does the Excursion use the metal valve stems like the other super duty's? Are these the press on type? or screw on?
2. What is the Valve Stem size?
My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
Ok not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
View 3 RepliesI just picked up a 06 XLT 4.0L with 125K that was a bank repo. After 15 minutes of driving the CEL light came on and the code read at local parts counter was 0402 which they said was the EGR system/valve. Is this a common thing? What are solutions (cleaning or replace)?
View 1 RepliesMy son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
So my radio occasionally when playing CD's will throw a "CD ERROR" on it's little digital screen. What happens is I will play a CD it will be playing fine, and not every time but sometimes the next CD I put in won't play and I get the error. Oh and when I eject CD's they are quite hot. Not burn your fingers hot, but hotter than from any other player I have had.
View 1 RepliesI need the PCM pinout for a 2002 F150 4.6 For the Purge Control Valve Circuit. If possible the wire schematic would be nice also. Getting code PO443 (( hard code )) I have checked battery voltage at valve connector with key on (( 12.2 volts )) valve resistance is at be 35 ohms so I'm thinking I may have a bad wire or a bad PCM .
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