Ford Excursion :: Electrical Malfunctions - ABS Light On - No Radio / Gauges - Power Loss?
Jun 14, 2014
Today I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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I have been having some electrical problems lately that seem to be getting worse. For the past few months sometimes when i hit a bump or pothole my radio would shut off and then turn back on. Well I never got around to looking at it cause i would forget about it until it did it again. so just a couple of days ago im coming into my driveway, hit the bump, and my car shuts off. Not like a stall, just no electricity. I was thinking i need a new battery because my lights flicker and dim when i hit my window button, or when I am just sitting at a light, sometimes my dash lights will flicker. But now I am thinking maybe I have a bad ground or something.
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My radio, all gauges and windows aren't working. Fuse 17 did not seem blown but I changed it anyway and still no luck.
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I have a few issues with my 05 f150 that I need to know how to fix them
-the odometer display flashes on and off, the warmer it is outside the less it stays on
-heater blower doesn't work when the switch is on number one position, works fine on other positions
-power mirrors don't work neither side
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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I just bought a 97 f-150 from my dad, there are some electrical issue's but the main one seems to be battery drain.
I have noticed with the truck off key in my pocket, the a/c doors keep trying to move and the a/c head has power to it.
I know the engine has been replaced, with about 20k on it.
The temp gauge pegs w/o getting hot, and it even turned over once while we were getting in the truck. Again key in pocket.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
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So, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
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I have a 2011 Ford F150 FX4, And for a while now i have been having a issue with the gauge cluster.
while driving once in a while all of the gauge cluster turns off then back on within a couple of second. all the lights for the traction control, air bag, engine.... turn on and then turn off just like when you start the truck.
The issue only last for a couple of seconds. And it can go for a day before doing it. Brought it to the Ford dealership and they said unless the gauges are completely off there is nothing to go on by. Also once in awhile the check advancetrac comes on and will be off next time i start the truck. Same thing dealer said there was no codes and nothing then can do.
I checked all the connection at the fuse box, gauge cluster. and no issues. had the truck running and try wiggling all of the connectors, in the truck one by one with no success in duplicating the issue.
Also notice that once in awhile my signal light will flas extremely slow when having the blinker on.
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My truck is a 2004 F150 XLT, 4.6L 2 wheel drive extended cab
The truck starts fine. With no lights on, heater/ac blower turned off... my turn signals and hazards work as they should.
If I turn on my headlights, I have no turn signals and the indicators on the dash are slightly lit up along with my highbeam indicators. The actual dash lights do not come on.
The blower does not work at all regardless of whether the lights are on or off. Turning the blower on immediately creates the same issue as the lights. (no turn signals, slightly lit up indicators, etc). The blower does not work on any speed. I can hear the duct work changing direction behind the dash as I move the blower selector from dash to windshield to floor, etc. I can also hear the compressor kicking on for the AC.
What I have done: I have checked all the fuses. I have attempted to remove every one of them while running to see if anything shutting off would let the blower kick on. I have unplugged the blower entirely wondering if there was a dead short. I have removed and unplugged the resistor to see if that might be an issue. I have also removed the right side kick panel and checked the ground wire there that runs to the dash. Everything so far seems to be in good order.
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Okay, my 1986 f150 with a 351w (non-feedback carbed) Has no lights on the cluster, and none of the gauges work (haven't tested the speedo yet, truck is not registered yet).
I also have a minor issue with the turn signals... Fronts work, no rears. The left turn indicator light on the dash does not come on but the right turn one does. All my "primary lights" (markers, tail, headlights) work fine. I have not yet tested the brake lights.
Fuses all look good, truck did have some roof leaks. I've done some research, does this sound like the dreaded voltage regulator issue for the gauges?
My assumption for the left turn indicator light is that there is a replaceable bulb in the dash (probably blown), is that right? Rear signals might be wiring (PO installed his own trailer wiring) or bulbs? haven't gotten that far into it yet...
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OK... My '00 GLX 4-motion 30v has started to really piss me off! It started about a month ago with the trunk latch. The light would come on in the dash and I'd check it and it would be open. I didn't open it! Then when I try to reclose it, no luck. Won't latch! So I look at the latch and it seems to be broken. But then I was driving down the road and the trunk just locked itself! I couldn't even get it to latch the day before and now it's locked! Next the rear view mirror decides to go all hazy and piss all over the dash! WTF! Now the autodimmer doesn't work! The rain sensing wipers quit and now the delay setting just does nothing! Then, as if that weren't enough, the A/C just decids to not work anymore! It won't turn on the compressor. It was working fine when I got to work and then when I got back in a few hours later, nothing! It has good system pressure, but it's like the controll unit isn't telling the compressor to kick! Up untill this point the only problems it's has giving me were the infamous tie rods and some wheel bearing noise from up front, oh and the camshaft seals. Starting to get pissed at the thing! Leaning toward the BMW side of things very quickly.
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My truck was fine yesterday morning, but when I got in it after work, nothing worked. The power windows, radio, ac, gauges all stopped working. Everything else does - power seat, wipers, turn signals....etc. What is going on?
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My prob started with key in ignition warning alarm working with no key, then radio on off at will and interior light not working or delay not turning them off when door closed. Now all gauges and warning lights/alarms go out also. If I open door and key alarm is on all systems work at that moment and without touching truck alarm can stop at will, at that point ignition alarm, interior light, radio and gauges do not work. When I giggle key with truck running the door ajar alarm activates when system working!
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Don't have a clue what's happening here or where to begin looking but about 20 seconds after cranking the truck ALL my instrument panel gauges go dead, radio goes dead (nothing on it's display) and my driver door controls all stop working simultaneously. Funny thing though, I can still see what the computer sees with my edge insight that's plugged into my OBD2 port and all those read as normal. The engine still runs and I can drive with no issues. My headlights still work fine as do all my signals.
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I did the installation of the start/stop button and it works. However, I have some unresolved issues. I have done a search in the FAQ thread but could not find anything referring to the following:
1- When I lock the car, either with the fob or with the door buttons, the alarm will sound when I enter the car if I unlock it using the door handle sensors. I can disarm the alarm with the fob, but it is not disarming with the door handles. How can I solve this issue so that the alarm is disarmed with the door handles? Can this be solved using a VAG-COM?
2- When I turn on the alarm, either with the fob or the door handle, the alarm indicating light blinks for a few seconds, then goes steady, and then blinks normally. I had not noticed this steady light state before. My alarm, I think, always went straight to blinking and stayed blinking
.
3- When they gave me the car back the adviser said that the seat would not move and the trunk would not open. However, I think they ran down the battery because the interior light was on. The dash displayed the "start the car now" message.
a) I had an almost two hour drive back home, do you think that the battery recharged in that time?
b) Was there any lasting damage done to the battery?
c) Is it safe to charge the battery with a trickle charger or do I need a special and specific charger?
The trunk now operates OK and the start/stop button also works. I wish the alarm also did.
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I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
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I have a 2007 6.0 with 260k on it losing gauges and radio intermittently while driving. Lately 2-3 times a day, lasting 3-4 seconds a time.
I have heard it could be the shift lever, instrument cluster, fuses, etc. I have kind of ruled out fuses based on the behavior of the failure.
Looking for a second opinion before I start taking the dash apart or send it in. The truck just can't be down for a long time right now.
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03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
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