Ford Excursion :: Door Open Light Is Stuck On / Sensor Malfunctioning
Feb 10, 2014
The "door open" light is stuck on and the truck thinks one of them is open. I went around and slammed all the doors and it went off. Didn't think anything of it till we went on a road trip and now its stuck on. No door slamming is working. How to unstick the sensor wherever it is?
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 and having problems right now because my Door Chime and Dome light dont work when the doors are open. But for some odd reason, when the rear door is open, the dome lights work. The 4 doors doesnt work yet the rear door does
The reason i want this is because i want to install an alarm and the door signal is needed and it is suppose to be tapped at the dome/chime so when the door is opened, the alarm will sound so it is not just relying on the Shock sensor.
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I have a light flickering on and off that claims the door is open, after a few months and a lot of testing I have come to the assumption that the sensor in my trunk hatch is sending a relay to the computer as if the door is open.... I can't find a latch sensor or relay for this thing, just the striker plate and the wiring that unlocks the switch as well as the wiring for the rear wiper blade....
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I got a stuck and screaming parking aide sensor. Hit reverse and it its screaming full bore. Good news is I installed that manual override button last year for use when hitching the trailer, so for now I have the entire thing shut off. So I read some on this issue on the forums and have tried to listen for the one that's clicking, don't hear anything clicking, cleaned them all. Any other electrical issue that could cause this or how I trouble shoot to narrow down the bad guy? Two of them are pretty easy to get out the other two are a PITA so I had to have to pull them all. Especially with it being below zero, even the garage heat full on is barely above freezing.
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Have a '93 Aerostar that had something roll up against inside sliding side door and must have nudged it out of alignment. Broke off outside door handle, took off inside panel and tried prying, pushing, kicking and pulling rods, handle, linkage and anything I could get at. Any way to get it open, so I can re-align the catch mechanism??? I have tried everything I could to "muscle it" open....
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I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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I bought my 2001 with 85k and prepared myself that it would likely need some work. Had cat-back replaced a week after purchase. Next up, door locks - I can hear the switches in all 4 doors trying to lock/unlock, they move ever so slightly which makes me think that due to minor usage over the past 14 years, they are just a bit sticky on the inside of the door panel. Before I go tearing off the door panels. Not sure I uploaded pics correctly....
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My lid is "stuck" open. It looks like it is missing a part. Looking for a pic of the latch assembly or diagram if they get a chance?
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Having problem with the left cargo door not opening!? You can pull the handle the cable moves but the door wont open, thinking maybe it a latch mechanism.
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The passenger side rear door will not open. I've tried from the outside handle, inside handle, jerking, pushing, etc. Nothing.
How in the world can I find out and fix the problem if I can't get the door open to get the door panel off??? And yes, I've tried unlocking it...
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So far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
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The driver's side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher. I w-d40 the out of it and I'm gonna look at it again tomorrow in the light. Hopefully it was just stuck or gummed up. I don't want to take it in for something that seems like I should be able to do!
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The drivers side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher....
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The door handle isn't broken as far as I can tell, I just went to get in the car one day, put the key in the door lock, turned it to the right like I always do and the door wouldn't open. After trying a few times I went to the passenger side and got in, hit the unlock button to unlock all the doors and the driver door still wouldn't open. I took the trim piece off (the little piece that covers the door lock) the inside of the door and attempted to manually unlock the door by pulling the rod but to no avail.
What I should do next? It seems like I would have to have the door open to get whole inside door panel off so I'm not really sure what to do.
1st gen lumina .....
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My driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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This really ticked me off big time today, whatever I do the gas cap won't open when I tried to at the gas station. Before I noticed that I would have to try this a couple of times before it will open, but today, it just won't open at all.
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I just bought a 2002 SC430, 62,000 miles, silver/saddle near perfect condition on owner, all records for $17,000. The radio door is stuck open and won't close. How to fix it? [/COLOR] Also the radio antenna will not go all the way down - about five inches stays up. Are the two problems related. Like others mentioned, I could eat off of the engine and the trunk still smells like a new car.
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Everything I've seen in the forum refers to alarms activating and how to turn them off, my problem is the opposite. Last year I performed a simple injector cup procedure on my 2000 7.3 Excursion which took about 3 months, during which time I had my batteries removed. When I finally buttoned everything back up I noticed that my alarm does the "chirp", but that I can leave a window rolled down and open any door without it going off. How to get this to reset? I can hit the panic button and get the alarm, but as a security feature it's not working.
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