Ford Excursion :: Door Lock Rocker Only Unlocks
Nov 16, 2015
All of my door locks work fine with the key fob or from the master driver side controls. One door lock, the front passenger, will unlock with the rocker switch on that door but will not lock with that switch.
I replaced the rocker switch on that door and I still have the same problem. To me this seems to indicate a problem with the lock wire from the rocker switch to the door actuator since otherwise the actuator works. I believe that is a black/pink wire.
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I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
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When I turn off my Ex, the drivers door unlocks automatically, but the other doors remain locked. Is there a way to program it so that all doors unlock automatically?
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I have a Camry 2011 LE (US) and it is giving me this problem for last few weeks. The doors lock fine with the key fob and the lock button on the doors however only driver side door unlocks when i try to unlock it.
The car does not has any starting problem and it still does not work when the car is started and moving. I have even tried a friend's battery to double check if its a battery issue but it does not seems like its that problem since my car starts just fine.
I have been searching on the internet for the problem and read somewhere it could be a Relay problem and i was able to find two relays in the fuse box. But I just don't know if its legit to try replacing the Relay and if yes which relay control doors.
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My drivers door lock (unlocks) at random times and it doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or not, or if I'm even in the car or not. When it activates when I'm not in the car it sets the alarm off (which doesn't impress the neighbors at 3 in the morning). I can even hear it try to unlock the door when I'm driving with the door already unlocked. I would think it may be a short somewhere because my (fairly new) battery goes dead. Also my "traction" light is flashing (a more recent development). Is that something that might show up on Code reader?
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I have considerable rust on both sides at the rocker panels. Both running boards are precariously perched and won't last long (don't really care about that; I'll do without).
In my search for replacement panels, I'm only able to find ones for "crew cab super duty," not specifically the Excursion. Wouldn't they be identical? Identical enough?
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So was replacing the actuator on a few of the doors today. I broke the clip on the passenger side rear door that attaches the exterior door handle to the locking mechanism. It's the clip that sandwiches the rod threads in place. I discovered the front and the rear doors are different in these clips.
What is the part # or diagram with description to find this part? I've found the replacement for the front door, but it doesn't fit the rear. Here is a pic of the front door one.
Dorman Products - 703-240
The difference in the part that connects the the locking mechanism. On the front its a round plug with tabs on it. For the rear it is rectangular and slides in and then rotate 90 degrees to lock in place. Cant for the life of me locate a replacement. Been researching for hours without success.
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I've searched the forums a bit but haven't found a definitive answer on my problem.
My back hatch door on my Ex won't lock.
Sadly anyone could climb through the back after I 'lock' it via remote. I have the standard ford sec systm which is just locking and need auth key to start.
Any solid leads I can get for my 2001
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I spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
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This afternoon the Passenger door lock would not unlock, with switch, key fob or door pad,you can hear it and the lock rod moves a little but will not unlock. Now it won't lock or unlock, you can hear the actuator and see the lock rod move a little but it just won't get there. Should I get a part in hand before I tear into it or could it be a easy fix with no parts. 2002 Ex XLT 4X4
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I just bought a 2000 ford excursion 7.3. None of the power door locks currently work but the one I am really consented about is the back window that folds up and down. I need to find out how to fix this back window because I can't lock it with the key like the others.
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6.0 .... Have a code Po3o4 Cyl 4 misfire. I pulled the valve cover to remove the injector and found the right half of the rocker mount and rocker arm laying in the head. What may have happened?
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My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
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I searched but can't find anything I know how to fix it once it's out, but until I get it out I got nothing.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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I have a 03 Excursion. The door lock buttons work perfectly to lock the doors but nothing happens when I try to unlock with the buttons on the doors. However the key fob and keypad entry work flawlessly. I was sure it was the drivers side master switch but replaced it with a brand new one today still doesn't do anything, no sound from actuators or any relay click nothing but the mechanical click of the contacts in the switch.
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I am getting ready to tackle a few projects on the new X. First I would like to fix the door locks. passenger side front, it makes a noise when i hit the lock/unlock button, but doesn't move. Hoping it is the actuator but wanted to make sure first. Is the actuator the first culprit to fix? I guess, How do i know it is the actuator? Wanna order them from rockauto soon. I've researched on here door actuators, looks pretty simple.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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2001 Sport trac ... Only the driver door unlocks, front passenger and both back doors will not unlock. I have a Fob and both unlock switches will only unlock driver door. All 3 will lock all the doors but only the driver door unlocks
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I've got a 1997 F-250 that as soon as you put it in gear to go forward, the doors lock as is the norm on these "new" vehicles. My complaint is that when you stop an get out, the drivers side unlocks, BUT the passenger side doesn't. THEN invariably I go around to get something out of the passenger side and its LOCKED. That's when my blood pressure goes into orbit. A trip to my dealer yielded no cigar. He stated that some models could be tricked into unlocking, but not this one.
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It took me ten years to talk my wife into buying a Toyota. (Her brother sold Chevrolet)... We got a new 2009 Corolla LE made 4/2008 in Japan. (bought new in late 2008)...
The paint is fading on the rocker panels and the gas cap door. The rest of the paint I am trying to keep up. (clay, polish and wax). The paint chipped really bad on the hood. It was so bad I sanded it down and found rust pits all over the metal.
The engine makes a very loud rattle sound when starting. It is especially bad when cold. We took it to the dealer while under warranty and they couldn't hear anything unusual so they said.
She had the dealer install an alarm system. They botched the job and destroyed the computer requiring several trips back and a loaner car. Alarm no longer works today. The rubber weather stripping around the windows is pealing off.
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