Ford Excursion :: Door Handle Pulls Hard - Way To Adjust?
Nov 12, 2012
My passenger rear door handle opens at almost end of the pull if that makes sense. This is different than the others. Is there a way to adjust it?
View 2 RepliesMy passenger rear door handle opens at almost end of the pull if that makes sense. This is different than the others. Is there a way to adjust it?
View 2 RepliesIf I unlock the car with the fob - two clicks - all doors unlock. However the rear drivers side passenger door always needs two pulls on the handle to open it. Both passenger side doors open from the outside on first pull, as does the drivers door, but the back door on the passenger side needs two pulls.
As far as I can tell all doors behave the same inside - one pull to open, unless the car is centrally locked, in which case two pulls.
Had mechanic check suspension components, alignment is fine, nothing looks damage or needs to be replaced. Tires are 35 inch and practically brand-new...
View 3 RepliesSo my 01 has been parked in the garage for about 2 months. Normally on battery tender but it accidentally got unplugged and I didn't realize til yesterday when I went to start it. So I got the battery charged up and put air in my rear drivers tire since every time it sits it goes flat. Well I did all this I so I could take it to get tires today.
Driving to work and its shaking pretty bad at highway speed. Don't recall it doing this yesterday. Never really did this before either. The truck also pulls hard to the right. Its done this for a while so I'm not sure if it's just the tires or needs alignment or something else. Or all of the above.
I'm mainly concerned with why it was shaking. The front tires don't look low however I will check the pressure on my lunch hour today.
2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
I have a 2002 xlt excursion. My passenger rear door handle is broken. It is the plastic clip that hold the linkage rod to the assembly (slotted) inside the door. I can't find a diagram to get a part number. Just not very technical looking things up... looking for a parts diagram or a part#?
View 2 RepliesI had my '09 F-150 Super Crew lock punched out on driver side door. To prevent this from happening again, I am replacing that handle with a handle for the rear door that has NO lock. I will no longer have key access to the truck. I am also ordering a spare remote. Is there anything I should consider before following through with this decision? Why I shouldn't do this? Is this a common thing to do?
View 14 RepliesMy 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
View 7 RepliesI've got a 1995 Ford Ranger that pulls hard to the right. It has always pulled to the right a little, but recently it has been worse. About a year and a half ago I replaced all four shocks, the two front tires, and had all four wheels aligned, but this did not stop the slight pull to the right. I get it back from the mechanic yesterday, and he tells me that there is a little bit of wire showing on the inside or the front drivers side tire.Is there some kind of joint or something in the steering that may be worn out that needs to be replaced? If so, how much does something like this cost to replace?I've been slowly replacing everything on my truck that needs to be replaced as I get the money, but it seems that lately it's just got way more expensive. I know that it's not a cheap fix for something like this, but I just wish it wouldn't happen all at once
View 2 RepliesJust as the title says I'm getting a good pull to the right when braking. Little background, truck has 155k, rotors and pads replaced 10 days ago, new tires today. Now with the new tires the pull is more pronounced than with the old tires but has been there, which I thought was just worn out rubber, apparently not.
All caliper pins are greased and moving freely, and for kicks I replaced left pins to see if some how they were fouling up, they weren't, still pulling. So my question after searching is maybe the last two culprits are bad caliper or bad hose? I just wanted to bounce this off the board and see if I am on the right track to fix this issue.
I have a 2000 XLT, V10, Auto, 4" suspension lift on 315/75R16. It recently started pulling to the left and has been getting worse. At <5mph the steering wheel will pulse to the left almost a quarter turn if you let it go and hold there. At actual driving speeds it feels like a constant pressure. The tire appears to have a wobble to it when driving, I know this because my wife drove followed me in it so I could observe.
It also turned easier to the left than to the right when I jacked up the front end and both wheels spun with ease. I have checked the tire rod, drag link, ball joints, and wheel bearings. They all checked out. The last things I can think to do would be to check the steering stabilizers, I have the dual inline set up, or swap the front tires and see if the problem moves from left to right.
If I am going over 40 mph and I have to brake hard my truck pulls really hard to the right. I mean so hard it will take me off the road. My truck is a 2004 f250 with 147,000 miles.
In the last six months I have replaced both hubs, rotors and brakes. I really drive like an old man so I don't know how long I have had this issue. Just someone pulled in front of me on the freeway and I had to brake hard and I found this out.
I have checked both front capilers and brake lines and those are fine. I have brand new tires on it. I really have no clue what is going on. I have pulled the brakes off three times and checked everything out and it looks good. If slowly push the brakes everything is great, it is only when I have to really slam on them.
My 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
If I use my remote to unlock my 2013 F150 FX4 it takes two pulls on the door handle to open the door. The first pull doesn't do anything I can notice, then the second one opens the door. Is that the way it's supposed to work?
View 12 RepliesJust replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesMy father recently purchased a 2012 Prius 3. To reduce his insurance premiums, he purchased an alarm system, which the dealer installed for him a few days after he first took the car off the lot. Now, when unlocking or locking the car from the driver's door handle sensor or via the remote, it both chirps (not the horn) and briefly sounds the horn twice or once, depending on whether you are unlocking or locking.
The problem is that when the car is unlocked from the trunk or the passenger door (using the door handle sensor with the key in pocket), this does not disarm the alarm, and the alarm will sound when the door is opened. The alarm is only disarmed when using the remote's unlock button or using the Smart Key sensor at the driver's door. One of the major differences between the 3 and 2 trims is that the 3 has Smart Key capability on the front doors and the trunk, rather than just the driver's door but the alarm has negated this benefit, as opening the trunk or passenger door without first unlocking from the driver's door or remote causes the alarm to sound.
Is this normal for a Toyota-installed alarm?
Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
View 2 RepliesI've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
View 7 RepliesMy 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesHad to get a replacement door due to a wreck. It's from a salvage yard, painted and ready to install except I want to swap my door handle over because of the key lock. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove this thing. I've got it unbolted and it'll move all around, just not slide out.
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