Ford Excursion :: Died While Driving At 70 MPH / Code Of P1260 Theft Detected
Aug 3, 2013
My Ex died on me last night while driving at 70mph, and wouldn't start again, it was turning over fast but not firing and I noticed the theft light flashing fast. After about half an hour it then allowed the car to start, I drove for about 5 minutes then it died again, and I had to call a recovery truck to get home.
It showed a code of P1260 Theft detected. The Ex is now running and starting ok, but I want to find or fix the problem so I'm not left stranded again (and I had my Wife and kids with me too)
I only have one key at the moment, and being in the UK, none of the dealers here will touch the Ex, so I'm thinking of bypassing/deleting PATS if possible?
I've now read tons of stuff on the internet, and some say that programmers like SCT can delete PATS or custom tune builders can delete it too - I was going to get a custom tune at some point anyway, so if it is possible, I'd like to get one asap and delete PATS at the same time?
Is there anything I should be checking in the meantime? Like replace a relay, check wires? I did the same when I first bought the Ex about 8 months ago, but at the time I thought it was the fuel pump, so did the hutch tank mod and checked the whole fuel system etc, and it hasn't done it since so I thought it was fixed....
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I have a 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. I recently replaced the PCM with a new unit from autocomputerexchange.net that was programed for my truck. I installed the PCM but the truck did not start. The theft light is also flashing rapidly during cranking. I ran a code scanner a recieved the code P1260 indicating an attempted theft which disabled the truck. I read that if you have two keys you can sync the keys with the new computer but unfortunately one of the keys stopped working a couple years ago (not sure why, stopped for gas and it never started back up). Since i do not have two working keys do i have to tow the truck to a dealer and let them reprogram the keys and reset the PATS or can i have a locksmith recode the keys and sync the keys myself.
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Did I steal my own truck?!? Just happened the other day and has only happened the once that I can remember : [URL] .....
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So my driver side map light went out, went and replace the lamp. Now I can't turn on the map light when I depress the lens on both front map lights. Both rear map lights don't work either when I flip the switch and the driver or passenger visor mirror doesn't turn on when I flip the mirror cover. Maps lights do come on when I open doors. Also my Home Link (garage door opener now doesn't work). It's throwing a P1260 code (Theft detected vehicle immobilized). Do this might be related to my light issue? Is there a fuse on relay that controls this that might be bad or something needs to be reset? I've looked at the fuses by the passenger floorboard and every thing looks good. Why this is happening?
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I was driving home tonight and stopped at stop sign. I took off and truck died and coasted to a stop. I tried to start but all it does is theft light blinks really fast and will not turn motor over. I tried to reset pat by following procedure I found on internet. Still no start. I then unhooked battery cables and left off for 15 minutes then hooked up but still no start and blinking theft light. I also tried spare key and still no start. What else can I do. I had it towed to place that just bulletproof my truck. Truck has been running great. I did not want to leave it on the side off road in the middle of country all night.
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After installing two new batteries, a new alternator and removing the auto start system still having the same problem. It sometimes wont start. It will turn over but wont fire. If the theft light keeps blinking it wont start. Other times no blinking light and it fires right up. What to check next.
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I have a 2000 ford excursion V10 . When I turn the key I get a rapid flashing theft light. No check engine light or engine light. I have check all my fuses in the vehicle unless there are hidden ones. My code reader and my tuner says no connection. They do power up but it just can not link. I did jump the relay for my pcm. Then my pats light does its check and shuts off then I get my check engine light comes on and does not shut off. I did get one code the P1000 code and the vehicle still will not start. As soon as I put my really back in the pcm it goes directly back to the way it was. So my thought is that my PCM is not powering on. What can cause this?
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My son has been using my old X to commute to local university. Today he drove off as usual but when he tried to start truck to come home he got a slight crank but then it shuts off or dies. The engine will start to crank over but gets about a quarter turn and stops. All electrical accessories work, battery gauge is in normal 13V indication. New starter 4 weeks ago replaced battery at same time (Wal-Mart warranty exchange). Is a 6.8L Gas with 370,000 miles. Consistant service. Oil coolant good. I replaced starter solinoid by battery today did same thing.
Theft light is flashing when key goes in ignition (weird) goes off as you try to turn it over. Have tried putting it in neutral and park to start. 1/4 tank of gas feul pump replaced two years ago. Last time starting problem about three years ago was solenoid replaced crank sensor at time from bogus forum diagnosis. thats about all the info I have. Hooked up OBDII no codes being thrown.
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first thing i noticed was trying to start it the theft light was flashing fast but wasnt cranking. Heard a relay click a bunch of times when going on and off. I'v tried to testing fuses and relays all seem good. Battery is brand new and working. Nothing works, no lights, wont unlock from remote. moving soon and we need to get this thing running. 6.8 gas excursion....
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I have a 2000 EX V10 100K miles. Saturday my anti theft light started blinking rapidly and the truck would turn over but no fuel. No check engine light. Fires up if I use starter fluid. I have read online alot about PATS systems and keys so I tried my extra key.... Did not work. I am planning to try syncing the key with the truck again today. Whats next? I checked all fuses twice. I saw somewhere about the ECM? Might have an issue?
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I have an 04 ranger with a 4.0 and got a code b1602 ....
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I have a 2001 F150 4.2 V6. Three days ago, I noticed the Theft light blinking while driving. At first, there was no issues with performance, although the blinking was most noticeable just as I tapped the accelerator at cruising speed.
I thought it may temporarily disconnect the battery, which I did. After hooking it back up, I went for a test drive. About five miles into the drive I picked up an intermittent, though somewhat steady skip--almost like a plug wire. Shortly thereafter, the flashing light returned.
I'm not sure if the two problems are connected (the light and skip) or if it's just a coincidence.
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Wife's car - 2005 Taurus, 6 cyl, 3L, OHV, 83K miles. CEL came on and code came back as "P305 - cylinder 5 misfire detected". The car had been running rough. I changed the plugs, wires and coil. After changing these (and clearing the code) the car seemed to run better for about a week. Today it suddenly started running rough again and the CEL came on with the same code. I'm guessing now this is probably fuel related as opposed to spark related??? As a side comment, the tachometer has been fluctuating as of late as well (again, intermittently).
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I have an intermittent security system issue. I sometimes get a dotted line in odometer and rapidly flashing theft light.
Crank no start. After a time, the theft light flashes a code of 1 then 4. Research gives me the result that PCM did not power up.
Have pulled gauges. Fixed known cold solder joint issue. Checked all connectors and reinstalled. Truck starts fine about 7/10 tries.
I have replaced battery terminals. Removed cleaned and replaced all firewall grounds. Checked harness connection blocks and PCM connector. Made sure all under hood fuses and relays working.
Currently sitting in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start again. Only one chipped key. Where to look next? 1999 F150 xlt 6 cylinder.
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2001 Ranger-4 Liter-169,000 Odometer Miles ... Over the past year I would get an occasional CEL indicating PO442 Leak Detected (small leak). I would simply erase it. Now it's occurring more frequently at approximately 300 odometer miles.
There must be lots a places for a small leak to develop. But, I am thinking that there might be one or two places that are somewhat common.
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New to diesel trucks and wondered if this recurring code is a serious problem. I clear DTC and truck will run fine. Might stay off for 2 days or 2 months and same code comes back. Truck seems to run just fine even with service light on.
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I own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
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I had a check engine light cane on. I took it for it to get checked and they gave me this code- P0457 EVAP small leak detected. ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP System during a system monitor test.
The paper said I had a leak in the Evap canister or hose. I took the truck to a mechanic and was told I had Bad oxygen sensors. Can Bad/Dirty oxygen sensors make this error code come up?
Exactly where the oxygen sensors are? I was told they were behind the mufflers but I didn't see any and the diagram I found was not accurate.
2002 Ford Ranger XLT v6 extra cab.
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So in managed to spill orange juice all over the center console and bottom section of the radio.
I took the center console out and cleaned everything but the bottom radio buttons are sticking.
If I unplug the radio and take it apart will I have to visit the dealer for the code?
Is there a theft code?
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Earlier this week, I had the p1260 pop up. Then while driving to the beach, I had the p2290 pop up. I do not actually have a check engine light on, but used my torque app to find the codes. I have found a oil leak on the driver side coming from somewhere. I have a mishimoto thermostat coming in next week. I will try to collect parts needed for this repair. From my understanding, it's a hpop leak and the adrenaline and stc fitting should be my next move.
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My r32 mk5 is throwing that code.
I replaced new o2 sensor with oem new one.post cat on driver side.
I have erased dtc and drove 15 miles dtc came back again.
Now i have replaced catalysator on driver side and same thing again.
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