Ford Excursion :: Delete Or Bullet Proof The EGR?
Feb 21, 2014
So I am looking to drop some coin into my 6.0, and one of the things I have been looking at is the EGR delete, BUT, I have been reading that the delete is illegal in all 50 states. I also have been reading that newer factory computer re-flashes will now trip the check engine light, even on the 03-04's, IF they have had the delete done.
With being active duty military, I move often, and I don't want to run into an emissions issue somewhere down the line. So the question is, should I go with the delete, or replace the stock EGR with a bullet proof one? There seems to be difference between the delete kit and the bullet proof EGR.
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I have the green light to bulletproof it. I just tore out the engine so she is on a stand now.
The whole backstory to this truck is one day a while back he was driving, noticed white smoke and instantly parked the truck at his house and fell on some hard times and couldn't get it fixed. The truck sat for some years and now was putting some life back into her.
I drained the oil and noticed right away the chocolate milk that was coming out of it, so right there I'm heading towards head gaskets.
What I am looking for is a list of the practical things to do to the engine while it is out on a stand. I am not looking for an extra 1000hp, just looking to bulletproof it so he won't have to worry about any other failures. I'm also looking for other maintenance items to change as well, maybe injector cups?
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I just got finished putting on arp head studs and gasket, new bulletproof oil cooler and egr delete. Put it back together the way it came apart but it doesn't start. Just turns over but wont start??????? 2005 F350....
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I recently purchased an 04 Excursion XLT with a 6.0. I want to do an EGR delete and install a coolant filter system to address the oil cooler issue. After doing some research I am confused on which coolant filtration system is best. I have looked IPR's setup as well as sinister diesel's system. It seems that IPR's system would filter more coolant however I'm not sure if it is better than the other systems on the market. Are there any other systems that I should look into?
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I keep seeing this and need details... 6.4 owner..
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During an out of town trip today, 6.0L 2006 started burning black smoke when accelerating. Was bullet proofed in 2013 without replacing injectors. Running a SCT programmer. After getting home I connected the tuner and didn't have any DTC's. Checked the oil, didn't smell any diesel on the oil stick. I was running the street tune, so I changed to the performance tune and it doesn't seem to be smoking as bad. What could be going on? This site has always came through for me (a non mechanic) when troubles start.
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Just picked my 2005 excursion from being bulletproofed. Arp studs, oem head gaskets, turbo cleaned rebuilt, blue spring mod, 8 new Motorcraft injectors, rebuilt heads surfaced, new Ford oil cooler, egr plugged delete, sct x4 on 2nd tow tune, new radiator, new fan clutch, new water pump, and sinister delete kit. I got almost home to last stop sign and took off and noticed grey/white smoke.
Then drove so more for 20 minutes. Everything you come to complete stop and take off it does this. On start up it will puff a little puff then go away. Is this normal after a rebuild and go away after some miles have been put on engine. Or should I be worried. It runs awesome now and idles so smooth with tons of power on tow tune.
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one of the guys I work with said that I could gain a bunch of horsepower by deleting my cats and clearing the code? do they do smog testing for inspection or anything like that here in texas? I am just asking a question, I am not saying that I believe him.
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I've got a 2006 6.0 350 with stock exhaust and am wanting to either delete the cat or the muffler, but not both. I'm curious how each would sound? For example, would deleting the cat make it louder than deleting the muffler, or will one make the turbo whine more audible than the other? Also, is there any benefit to deleting one over the other, performance wise? Oh, I'm not really looking for loud and obnoxious, but more turbo whine wouldn't be too bad .
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i just bought a cherry bomb glass pack and an exhaust system from summit. I am considering running no catalytic convertor. Anything i should know? I know it wont pass inspection but my truck wont pass right now anyway. I am more concerned with loss of power, or worse gas millage....
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New to me truck, 2004 250, bought in Aug, 110K on it.
First thing out of the gate the FICM wiring Harness was bad, so I will have to replace that, I was thinking that since I'm that far into it why not just go a little farther and have a look see at the EGR Cooler and the HPOP...
I don't get white smoke on start or any other time, seems to run fine, haven't got a scanguage yet, so no data.
Thinking about doing the EGR Delete, but not really sure on all the pro's/cons of it.
Being an 04 truck It won't throw any codes if I put in the delete, and its far more economical to do the delete, however I have heard that new ECM program/updates could cause the truck to throw a code...
Looked at BPD and their EGR oil cooler, but that is just plainly out of the budget for now.
SOOOO If I delete am I looking at a potential check engine light (god I hate those) in the future, and or issues when I go in for emissions, can they really tell its been deleted?
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Looking at an EGR delete in the very near future. Any problems passing emissions with a full delete?
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How to completely turn it off, I got nothing so far. I cant do it with my H&S, I have access to ford IDS which is also unable to turn it off. The only thing I have found to work is unplugging a wheel speed sensor, which sets off dash lights... Im thinking of finding a body control module without advancetrac.
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Some people say it's normal to lose some boost after the delete, some say it's not and you need a tuner. Before the delete, I could regularly see around 28-29 psi on the factory gauge if I jumped on it. Now, I see about a max of 20-21. I have no leaks that I can find and the truck runs just as it did before. I still have my EGR plugged in laying on top of the engine and don't have a check engine light-yet. Is there a definitive answer as to how to fix this or is it really considered normal to lose that much boost after a delete? I don't really want a tuner because I'm not looking to add HP, but if that's what it takes, then I need to save up. I also read somewhere it can depend on the strategy.
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I am going to have an IPR EGR delete done. Having a hard time telling whether I have the round or square EGR. Looking on the passenger side anywhere to look specifically so I make the correct ID. Want to order the correct one. They said build date is not a good way to ID.
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I am looking into getting the full deletes on my 2013 F250 6.7 and using the H&S Mini Maxx Race Tuner unlocked. I was told by my local Diesel Performance Shop I should just unplug the EGR and turn it off by the Tuner rather than investing in the delete kit.
He advised me it would be easier to plug it back in and turn it back on in case I need to take it back to the Dealer for any warranty work He advised me no advantages any way and works the same way. I will be putting on the H&S race tuner, S&B CAI, FLo Pro 5" down pipe back w/ no muffler and UREA delete.
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I am planning on doing a stealth egr delete on a 2006 6.0. What is the proper procedure? Is there a scoop in Y pipe that needs to be eliminated? Am I going to see a CEL? Am I going to need a tuner to clear CEL and codes?
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I have a 2014 ford F350. Was flood damaged, all fixed and running great except a couple of small problems.
Was trying to solve a mykey problem with volume being restricted to 49% and IDS said it had found new PCM and TCM software and should it update.
Me being a dork, (forgetting that the truck is not stock has EGR delete and other stuff that I'm not even sure of) said 'sure go ahead!!'
As soon as it was reflashed, it came up with errors
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION ERROR
REDUCED POWER
did some googling and it seems (possibly) that when the truck was modified, the PCM was reflashed. When I upgraded the PCM I screwed it up as it set it back to original factory settings.
Do I need to buy an SCT tuner? Is there any way in IDS to disable EGR (I have a clone and I cannot find it). Am I best to take it to a shop that know what they are doing and have the reprogram the PCM.
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While my turbo is out I decided to delete the EBPV. I removed the butterfly and rod, & pounded in some 3/4 inch freeze plugs. Are there any mods that need to be done to the pedestal, or can I just leave it the EBPV plunger unhooked? It's not leaking, but will it leak if left unhooked? Or do I have to gut it and tig weld the oil gallery's
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I'm brand new 6.0 owner. I am going to be performing many of the bullet proofing steps including plugging off of or a complete delete of the EGR cooler. I've read that the SCT tuner will turn off the CEL light and stop the ECM from operating EGR function.
What I can't find for sure is will I get a code P1000 (drive cycle not completed) with EGR turned off. Here in Seattle if you have a code P1000 stored you will not be allowed to complete emissions testing to get your tabs renewed. I'm guessing it does not set P1000.
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Just did an egr delete, oil cooler, icp sensor and exhaust on an 03 f250 6.0l. got it all back together and it cranked up and ran for about 30 seconds then stumbled and died. read to pull out the ipr sensor and check it and it had a piece of debris on it covering the screen. took of the debris and still no start.
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