Ford Excursion :: Cutting Off In Drive While At Stop Light
Aug 18, 2015
When I am at stop light my truck cuts off while in drive, it idles low when cranks up, it sputters like its not getting gas, I already replaced IAC valve, cleaned throttle body & mass air flow sensor, I replaced fuel pump,fuel filter,all spark plugs & bad coil packs, check battery & alternator, checked all vacuum lines & every now & then the check engine light comes on with a p220 code: Output speed sensor which I replaced, what else could it be
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I have an '03 sport trac with 146k miles on it. Truck is in good shape for the most part, it has been very well kept before i got it. In the last few months i have had the flow master exhaust put in and the k&n intake. I had the vacuum leak problem with the hole in the elbow, which was fixed and discovered after replacing the IAC.
I have had a problem with the vehicle almost but not quite stalling when shifting from drive to park. The first thing i did was check for vac leaks, found none. I did not replace the IAC again only because it is only a few months old. I also replaced the MAF, which did not work either, I was still almost stalling going from D to P. The vehicle shut off while in the drive through at McDonald yesterday. It restarted roughly and i managed to get it to a safe spot. I lifted the hood and felt the radiator main hose was solid feeling, so i drove home and replaced the thermostat. In the process i got coolant all over everything.
The problem I am having now is the truck is just cutting off, both at idle and while driving down the road. It starts right back up and away i go. It is random, the truck is running a ok with no signs of any trouble then the next second it shuts off.
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Today I was backing my ex up in my yard(down hill) and it acted like it was going to cut off. So put it in drive and it would not go,so I thought low in fluid. So I checked it, it was fine. So I tried it in drive down the hill and its fine. So confused as I was I tried in reverse again and it done it again. Any clues to why? Its a 03 v10 with 76xxx miles...
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I have a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 that I use as a daily driver and also haul with it(4 horse trailer loaded). The brakes are not cutting it, they suck. The rotors have been turned 3x in a year and it is due for pads and I am sure rotors now.
I want to upgrade so that I don't continue to keep having this amount of problems. Sadly the beast gets abused with 3 teen drivers at the moment, so I am pretty sure that is contributing to the eating of brakes.
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I bought a 2000 Excursion XLT, 4x4 with the 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel back in the fall. Here in Indiana the winter is getting bad, not exactly the best time to find out your 4x4 doesn't work! My 4x4 light comes on, but I can tell I'm not in four wheel drive. I've read that on the diesels that the fix could be a simple vacuum line.
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08 Expedition... I drive an automatic and I frequently shift to neutral during down or cruise to a stop light. Does this affect the gear assembly, brakes, etc.
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I have a 2005 EX Eddie Bauer. In the past week the climate control system has acted funny twice. Once on startup it did not turn on and once while driving it just turned off - as in digital readout is blank and the unit acting as if it has no power. It seems to "fix" itself... What I should be prepared for - bad unit or something else?
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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After installing Banks headers and full exhaust, I took my truck for another test drive this morning. SES light came on about 15 mins into drive and is telling me P0174 - Bank 2 Lean.
So that's the right/drivers side - my list of things to go check
O2 Sensor plug on that side
The MAF
The IAC
Vacuum lines ...
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This might be a dumb question but the light for my overdrive is blinking and it won't stop. I tried pushing the button on the end of the shifter but it still blinks. No codes are triggered. This is on my 2000 7.3l 4x4 limited. I haven't check the fluid level yet. Just got home from an exhausting trip. Here is a picture.
With it on ....
With it off ....
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My jetta has been cutting off at stop lights ... I've been reading all of the posts here and come to the conclusion that I needed to replace the crankshaft position sensor...once I found the sensor, hours later...I was able to remove it...it's been a week now, and the car runs great!
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I just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
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So for the past several months i have noticed something going on. There is a little noise almost like a groaning
- When i am at a Stop light and idle but still in Drive.
- When i shift to N or P it stops and goes away.
Sometimes during this i will notice a little rattle or i feel a little vibration but not much and very hard to even notice if it hadn't been for how sensitive i am never would have even noticed this at all. What this could be ?
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My GX470 idles rough when I'm in "drive" and at a stop. If I drop it into park or neutral it is fine. The 470 has about 98K on it and everything else is great. Looking for a solution to get this smooth again.
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I have really taken care of this 2011 SF Limited with the 3.5 V6 but it has always seemed to idle rough at a red light/stop sign while in drive. Is this common for all the 3.5 V6 engines? I run a fuel cleaner through it before every syn oil change and also use top tier gas. It drives nice but like I said, at a stop in drive it seems to run rough at around 500-550 rpm's.
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I have a 2000 - F150xlt - 4.2L - V6:
Today while leaving work for lunch I started the engine and suddenly the ABS light came on and the engine cut out before I put it in gear. Then as I was driving each time it cut out the ABS light came on. So I stopped at the convenience store across the street from work to get some gas thinking it was low although it had a 1/4 tank. But after filling up it would not start. Then relay #2 began clicking in the fuse panel and would not stop whether the key was on or off. Several minutes of this went on and then I pressed the brake peddle in once more and everything on the dash lighted up, the dials fluttered around, the clock came back on, etc...
So I tried starting the engine again and suddenly everything started working and the engine started up. I drove it home and it ran fine with no issues, no cutting out or anything. After lunch I tried it again to head back to work and the truck would not start again. But this time there was no clicking from relay #2. Everything was dead until I pumped the brake peddle several times with the key off and then turned key in the ignition and then it started right up and drove like normal. Why it's doing this and what to check to fix it?
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So apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
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Four wheel drive will not come on, no light on dash or engaging.Some times light on dash will flash. Why?
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Finished my flush, but now it won't shift to reverse unless i shift all the way to drive first. I thought it might be the hard shifting lever(i think something is up with the linkage), so i shifted to neutral, then reverse, but no success. It's still about 1/4-1/2" overfilled, I jsut ran to the hardware store and it's consistently still not shifting to reverse unless I take it all the way to drive first.
Really hoping I didn't break something in the process... I did do the shifting through the gears while it was flushing out the old coolant, could the valve be stuck due to that?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 2wd 7.3 diesel. Drove it an hour yesterday and drove fine. Got home and decided to check the mail so I put it in park, left it running and got the mail. Jumped back in and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried 1 and 2 and would not move. Put it in reverse and it barely moved.
I turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove fine like nothing happened. Same thing happened today. Turned it off and back on and it worked fine again. It happened a 3rd time when I stopped put it in park and back in drive but I was able to move in drive once I revved it up a bit.
As long as it is in drive like at a red light with your foot on the brake it is fine but if you put it in park and then go to drive it wont move unless you turn the vehicle off and back on. The fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Maybe converter or ???? Is it ok to drive i this way???
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