Ford Excursion :: Cruise Deactivation Switch Harness Fuse?
Sep 3, 2013
I finally got around to trying to fix my inop cruise control. Did the self test and got a flash code 2, BPP switch. I replaced the switch but its still inop and still have flash code 2. Got my meter out and started checking system.
I found the fuse in the deactivation switch recall harness was bad. I removed the harness and plugged the two remaining connectors together and the cruise works. I returned home and unplugged so it wouldnt short out. The connectors are clean and no signs of fluid.
Says on jumper harness that the fuse isnt serviceable and to replace with 9F924 harness. Well the fuse is serviceable and the harness ohms out good. Is there a need to buy a new harness or would I be ok with a new 5 amp fuse?
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I have a 98 Ranger 2wd reg cab 2.3L 5sp. Recently the airbag warning light was blinking 2-7 which indicates bad lamp in passenger airbag deactivation switch. Since the lamp has no numbers or markings on it, and my repair manual has no schematic on that part, where I can find the ma, wattage or ohm rating of the lamp? Or a part number / source for a replacement lamp?
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I need to replace, its either a brake pressure sensor or speed control deactivation switch . Would like to know which it is and can I get a generic one from other auto parts beside a ford dealer Can post a pic of part as soon as I figure out how to do that exactly. 2002 f250 super duty....
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I have an 02 Excursion, V10. It has the extension brake switch harness, with the fuses. I had a blown 2a fuse. I have a brake pressure switch, that is still open. Any better approach to the redundant switch. If not, I would like to know an updated switch part #, and is there any reason I could use key run, for the battery? Using a Bosch relay coils thru the switch, then battery to the cruise servo?
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I bought a 2002 Excursion 2wd V10 at an auction with 105,000 miles. I've been working through the little problems and I'm down to one last small item.
The cruise control will not work. I found a thread to diagnose the problem. My diagnosis is:
After doing the self test I received: 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
What does this represent and what shall I do to correct it?
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The cruise switch on my brake master cylinder is bad and causing the cruise to not work. I have it bypassed with a jumper wire and it works fine. is there any reason not to do this?
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Early 2000 vs 2001? Looking for info on replacing wiring harness under the dashboard?
Is there enough clearance to pull the harness without removing the dashboard?
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I am going to be pulling a trailer next week. I bought a raybestos voyager XP controller. I expected it to be plug and play but what I got was four wires. I have heard that there is a plug ready under the dash to plug a controller into directly. I found a gray pigtail with male ends. Is this it? Should I take controller back and get one with the correct plug or is there a harness one can buy or is a stop to my local ford dealer in the future.
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This is on my 05. I assume its for fog lights. Is that correct? If so, where is the fog light switch? I don't have one near my headlight switch. Is this one of those things where everyone gets the harness, but the option is only on the switch if equipped?
Here is the harness....
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I am in the planning stages of installing / upgrading my X's sound system. This isn't the first time I've done an install like this before, but am running into a bit of trouble with the steering wheel controls.
I know there are options out there as far as interfacing, but my problem is finding the other harness. To be more specific, I know if I pull my radio out, there are 2 harnesses back there. One is the one you get the kit and splice the after market radio into the factory harness. EASY I Know.
Now, need a harness that plugs into the other plug? I'm not a fan of cutting/splicing into factory wires. Most of the steering wheel control kits just require you splice with 2-3 pins on that other Plug and you should be set. I'd really love to just have another adapter that plugs into that harness so I can connect what I need.
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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I have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are the aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, these lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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What is the location of this? It's fuse 37. But it's neither under the steering wheel, or drivers side engine compartment....
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I'm looking to hook up some led's using a fuse tap to toggle switch. I'm a little confused on the power wire from the fuse tap to the toggle switch. What type of power wire do I need and what gauge should I get? Only power wires i find have positive and negatives but hat doesnt seem right to me. Also what amp fuse should I add on to handle the led's.
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I turn my cruise on and then attempt to set it , nothing happens , doesn't set, no light , nothing. I hit coast and the light comes on but still doesn't hold. Should the light come on when cruise is turned on or set? I checked the master cylinder switch and it's not wet. I also did the self diagnostic test and got nothing but the initial first light blink.
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Is there a way to deactivate the seat belt chime??
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Fuse #27 keeps blowing as soon as I shift into reverse.
Prior to shifting, everything works as it should - I've unplugged the rear sensors, back up lights, trailer plug, and each time, fuse #27 keeps blowing.....
Where I should look? Also - looking for a 2003 excursion wiring diagram that shows what all fuse#27 controls?
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I like the looks and ease of adding on circuits. Just haven't found the best place 5 put it. Mounting one of these in the cabin? I want to hook up my mirrors, dash cam, and future add ons without a nasty pile of wires hanging from the original fuse box.
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My wife was driving home tonight and the headlights went out. She was able to pull off the road to a parking lot. All the lights are working besides the headlights. Neither high or low beams are working. I can heard clicking noise in fuse box when switching the headlights on and off. I pull the plug off one of the headlights and stuck a new bulb in it. It still did not work.
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