Ford Excursion :: Cranks But Won't Start / When Turn Ignition Over Gauges Do Not Swipe
May 25, 2016
I just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
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I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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2003 impala 3800 ... My battery drains if i leave it hooked up over night: and the gauges will sometimes start to click and flicker and move when the key is out of the ignition: I have changed batteries 3 times in 1 yr and checked the alternator, everything is fine, I'm tired of disconnecting my battery every night before bedtime..
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My 6.8L is experiencing an issue. Truck hasn't been ran in a few months...it ran fine when it was parked and has sat longer than this with no issue before. Battery voltage fine...
I get in, insert the key, turn it over and it cranks but doesn't fire.., why is that, I wonder? I notice the SES never goes out before I crank the truck over.
I unplug the battery, tried to clear any fault codes with my handheld tuner (which there was nothing showing up) and turned the ignition on. I left the key in the on position but didn't try to start it. The SES lights never turns off.
I am assuming that if the SES light stays on, the ecu will not allow the truck to start...is that true? What components have an effect on the SES light when you first turn on the key?
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Had the Excursion out today. Made a stop coming back and used the remote start. I entered the truck and by mistake pressed the brake pedal which shuts off the engine. When I tried to start the truck with the key...it cranks fine but does not start. It'll try to run, sputter...but will not run.
I cannot hear the pump running when the key is turned. It was towed home and it in the driveway. I assume it's the fuel pump....but wondered if the remote start/alarm could be killing the power to the pump? The cut-off switch in the passenger footwell is pressed in. Where do I start:?
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
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I have researched a little and believe i have a leak in the high pressure oil system. My 2004 Excursion 6.0 will start when it is cold but after warming up will not start it just cranks over. So here is my question; the two wires leading from the Turbo had melted and shorted and in fixing that i loosened what i believe to be an oil line feeding the Turbo. Could this be the problem? Also is there an O-Ring that seats the line into the block that may need replaced?
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My 2004 6.0 will not start. It cranks fine. History This happened once before about a year ago towed it into the shop and it stated fine.
The batteries were low yesterday and the truck would not start because the voltage was too low to run the starter. I charged them. Went to try again and I cranked it for close to 30 seconds with no results.
Only cods so far are #6 glow plug and EGR valve open. Whats next, check the FICA?
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Been having an odd problem with getting my truck to start. Pass couple of days I've gotten out from work and gone to start the truck. It cranks just fine but wont start, acts like there is no gas. Let it for a minute or two and try again and it will start right up and keep running with no other problems. Go to leave for the work the next day and the same issue. Weird thing is the problem only seems to happen when its cold out 30F so or below. I was thinking fuel pump but I'm not sure. What to check?
Edit Its a 2002 Excursion XLT with the gas 5.4
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2001 Ex V-10 4x4. Ran like a top yesterday. Turns over fine but not even a sputter today. Plenty of fuel & battery. Has spark. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. No codes. Checked fuses and relays in dash & under hood. Fast forward an hour...
Went out and tried it again - fired up like nothing ever happened. Plowed snow for the better part of an hour, - ran like a champ again, smooth, no missing or stutters - parked it and shut it off. Tried to start it again within a minute or so and it would start, run rough & die. Tried a few more times with same results. Now it cranks fine but no start, no sputter. Gonna try a fuel filter tomorrow.
If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it throw a code?
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I have an 05 diesel. I have noticed the last 3 days I needed to crank it slightly longer to start it and it takes a second before ideling normally. It usually fires right up and jumps to life. Today i drive about 45 minutes. Stoped for about 30 minutes and shortly after I started it back up the check engine light came on. Will the Ex flash you the codes or do you have to have a reader? Thought I would try Autozone tomorrow but not sure if they read deisel codes or not. I was suspecting maybe glow plugs but who knows at this point. It seems to be running fine and I checked all fluids.
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 152k miles on it. Recently replaced battery. All of sudden yesterday, engine will turn over and try to run but sputters out and dies after about 30 seconds. Cannot maintain idle on it, and none of the gauges rise when you turn on the ignition, so that you cannot see the RPMs and the gas gauge reads empty even though I filled it up two days ago. Tried to start it today and saw the same problem but with no sputtering, engine dies within seconds now.
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99 Ford Ranger disguised as Mazda B2500. (Same vehicle I think) 5 speed manual, 4 cyl., no a/c. Bought new and maintained according to schedule. Randomly fails to start. Cranks but won't turn over. I try several hours later and am able to start it. Mechanic has not been able to duplicate the failure to start. Checked thoroughly and finds no problem. I am very hesitant to drive it like this.
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
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I have a 2003 Taurus wagon (a real babe magnet) that has 63K on it. On random occasions recently, I turn the key to start it and there is dead silence--no groans, no clicks, nada. This happened for the second time last week at a tire shop, and the technician had me hold the key in the start position while he tapped the starter with a metal rod, which worked miraculously. He showed me where the starter was and how to perform this miracle. Unfortunately it is a two-person job, and I was stranded the next evening alone at my house, and missed work the next day. Later that day it started right up like nothing had happened.
It stranded me again two days later, and nice lady in the parking lot held the key in start position while I used my cane to tap the starter as I had been shown. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem and my temporary solution, hoping they would know from this exactly how to fix it. After four days, they said they could not duplicate the problem, that the car started right up every time they tried it. Meanwhile the car I had borrowed from a friend broke down in a busy intersection, stranding me again for a short while. I went back to the dealer and brought the Ford home, figuring there isn't much to do but play the odds....Logic suggests that because tapping the starter seems to get it to go, that the problem must be in the starter. Yet the guys at the dealership wouldn't touch anything until the car refused to start for them. Where does one go (or in this case, possibly not go) from here?
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