Ford Excursion :: Coolant Puking And Overflow Tank Smells Like Exhaust
Dec 4, 2015
I have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
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I've been MIA for a while. 2006 F250 just hit 83k miles. My coolant must be puking out of the degas tank. White residue all over degas and drivers side engine bay. I had my mechanic buddy pressure test coolant system for several hours and he said there weren't any leaks. He told me to replace the degas cap for now. Didn't solve the problem. Temps have always been fine. Never found drops or a puddle of coolant. Even when the truck has sat overnight for over 8 hours, there is still a bunch of pressure built up when cap is removed.
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I got a 64 F100 with a 292 that I am thinking of installing a coolant overflow tank on to aliviate having to fill the radiator frequently.
The question being............Is it a sealed system or do I need to provide an air bleed to adjust for the presure change within the cylinder I intend to use?
I realise that thermal syphoning will return the coolant to the radiator but am unsure as to weather or not I need to allow the airspace to remain at atmospheric pressure.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
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So I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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my 2006 6.0 will roll over 300,000 miles this week but today I was pulling a 24' pontoon boat that should only weigh a few thousand pounds from hot springs Ar where there are some small rolling hills and the outside temp was 70 degrees. I was driving between 55-60 most of the drive. On a few of the longer hills my eot got up to 220 with the eot trying to catch up.
On the down side it would fall to 185-190 and the eot would also follow. On about a 5 mile straight stretch the ect was 208 and eot 202. When I got home I opened the hood and I do have coolant puke around the degas bottle. After opening the cap there seemed to be a steam/smoke coming out of the degas bottle. There was still some coolant in the bottom but not a whole lot.
On my drive to work every day my delta is between 6-8 degrees with the ect between 188-194 depending on ambient temp. So does this sound like my head gaskets finally let go? Will them blowing raise the eot/ect when towing?
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Ok so I have a 2005 f250 6.0L. It is fully bulletproofed with ARP head studs. I am running a sct anarchy on street tune. My problem is that sometimes it is "puking" coolant from the degas bottle but only a drop every now and then around the cap; it drives fine, no trouble codes, the engine and trans temp is fine and it's not blowing white smoke it still blows black smoke, and there is no coolant smell just straight diesel. What might be causing it to puke a drop of coolant every now and then?
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3 for 3 this year. When I'm towing, arrive at our campsite and back our trailer into the spot. I get white smoke pretty quickly and there is transmission fluid all over the ground.
4R100 transmission with 71k miles on it. I had the fluid changed this year HOWEVER it did do the same thing last year on a camping trip when I was towing.
I don't have any other issues other than this. I assume the fluid is getting ridiculously hot and then boiling over? The gauge doesn't change at all in the cab (but I assume it is either a GOOD/BAD sensor vs. an actual temp sensor).
I've tried using 2WD, 4HI and 4LO all with the same results. What needs to be done to prevent this? Larger transmission cooler? Is there anything that is 'plug and play'?
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06 6.0
Goes from max to min line on degaus bottle every couple months. No puking or white residue. Going to pull egr tonight and see if damp. Anything else to check besides obvious leaks at hoses/radiator/etc?
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1996 F-150 5.0... So I bought this truck a couple months ago for a really good price and its my regular vehicle that I use daily. While driving I switched tanks from the front to rear and when i reached my destination i noticed that fuel spilled from the cap, I opened the cap and fuel overflowed. I've read in forums saying that its the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the Fuel Tank Selector Valve . It still drives and runs fine, but I would like to know which part its specifically causing the problem?
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My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
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I have an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat with almost 200,000. The other day my t-stat started sticking and popping at 220 and then would go back to normal. Now it won't pop and it's puking coolant in the front of the engine. Would just a bad t-stat cause this or do I need to do my water pump as well.
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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I have a '88 F250 with a couple of dual tank issues, first of all if I'm running on the rear tank the fuel returns in the front tank.... not an isssue if trhe front tank is empty, but if both tanks are full the front tank will overflow. If the front tank is empty I run on the back tank until I'm out of gas and switch to the front and I"ll have about a half a tank in the front tank.
Second issue, running the front tank the fuel gauge stays on full until I have about half a tank, then it works OK. If I'm running the back tank it stays on full, even after the tank runs out of gas??
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I have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
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