Ford Excursion :: Coolant Filter Change Procedure
Mar 7, 2015
My 05 Powerstroke X has a coolant filter installed by the previous owner.
I have no directions for the kit. To change the filter is it as simple as close the valves and spin off the filter and put a new one on?
Any need to bleed the system?
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Do you change when you change your oil, or at what interval? How often to change fuel filter?
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Just changed transmission fluid and filter at 175,000 on my 2000 V-10 and now I have a whinnying sound and shifting that does not feel sure footed. It worked fine before the change. Fluid is synthetic and filter is Ford Motorcraft. Did it just go?
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I used to replace my LS430 cabin air filter myself. Now I have a 2012 LS460, and they have made the hatch door in the glove box motorized. I know to open the hatch, it has something to do with depressing the Fan button on the dash. But I don't know exactly what to press, if car should be running, or ignition simply On but not running, etc. What is the exact procedure that opens the little hatch in the glove box so I can replace the filter ? (And my primary reason for wanting to bring it to dealer is simply that it took me 5 minutes to do it on my LS430, vs MUCH longer to go to my dealer.)
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I have determined that my starter is not engaging on my car 4.2 phaeton. I removed the 433 starter relay and tried to jump the contacts to engage the starter. I get a small flow of current when I do this but no engagement of the starter, only a very faint click. Not a click like when you engage a normal solenoid. It may be a bad solenoid or a bad starter motor. I cannot reach the terminals on the solenoid to check my connections. I have read somewhere that the manual states that the engine removal is required. I tried knocking on the solenoid with no results.
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I had additional springs added to the front axle by a shop that I would not now trust to work on a tricycle.
The front axle was installed at an angle.
Is there a recommended procedure to align the axle? The two ideas I can guess at is to find a centerpoint on the body or frame and use that as an alignment point like one would align a trailer axle to the hitch or to assume the spring mounting points are precise enough to just center the axle between the two on each side.
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Changing tranny fluid/filter today, all has been going great until I went to take the filter o-ring out that didn't come with the filter. It will not come out! made a hook tool out of an old tooth brush like someone on here did, o-ring wont budge. Tried a hook pick, it wont dudge (actually bent the tip on the pick and started to tear the o-ring). Everything is ready to go back together and get filled, but this stupid o-ring will not come out!
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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My wife purchased a new F150 4x4 in late 09. We have driven it about 5000 miles. It is garaged year around. Her brother offered to do the first oil change but can't get the filter off. He has tried every type of wrench and has the metal body of the filter nearly completely torn off up to the rim of the filter near the seat and it still won't screw off. we are thinking that is might have gotten cross threaded at the factory and over tightened.
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Ok so the speakership wants 200 bucks to replace and the filter alone is 100 bucks. Found some at auto zone for 65 and 85 or so. How often do you change your filter and where do you buy them?
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I just bought a 2005 5.4L F-150 and need to do an oil change. The manual calls for an FL-820S Motorcraft filter. I bought one and it doesn't match up. The filter that is currently on the truck is smaller in diameter and a little longer. There's no numbers or manufacturer on it. What's up? What filter do I need?
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How many miles typically getting out of air filters? I kept watching the air filter gauge and never saw it changing as the miles added up. I'm at 22k miles now and finally opened it up and looked at it and decided it was time for the first change even though the gauge was not indicating it needed to be.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 4.6 with 100000 miles. I am wanting to change my transmission fluid and filter, my dealer says all i need is to flush out the old and put in new, which is what they do, they say no need to change the filter.
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Did my oil change last night and filter swapped both fuel filters on my 04 f350 started it up last night drove it a little bit and she was fine. Went to start her up this morning and she was pissy so I drove her a bit once warm and she feels like there is a dead cylinder maybe??
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I have an 06 F-250 super duty with 26000 miles.. Was wondering if i need to change my air filter or wait awhile longer. It doesn't look bad but have never seen a filter quite like that one either..
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Replaced both fuel filters same as usual. Cranked right up and I let her run while I put up the tools and look for leaks. Notice it started running rough, so I jumped in and started to back out of carport and it went dead. Ran battery down and it won't hit a lick. Replacement (racor) filter same as last few changes. Running just fine before change so it has to be something simple, but what?
2006 6.0 powerstroke
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Went and changed my fuel filters today... Primed the truck 6 times. Started it. Ran great, then got a low fuel pressure and reduced power notification. Turned it off. tried priming it 10 more times, no start, tried 15 more times. No start. Took off the outlet on the secondary filter, solid flow. Took off the return on the L/H fuel rail, pinched the line and put a hose on the rail... Once again solid flow. I can hear air somewhere under the hood but I don't know where... Driving the 7.3 to work tomorrow but this is driving me up the wall.
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Having problems with motor craft oil filter leaks. Every time I change my oil the filter ends up leaking. This has happened three times.
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2008 f250 auto
is the trans filter change possible?
i didnt see this in the tech folder and no videos for a 2008
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