Ford Excursion :: Codes For Cylinder 8 And Then 7 - 2 Bad Coils In 3 Days
Dec 23, 2013
So on Thursday night I replaced all of the plugs and boots on my 01 v10. I used Autolite 103's and Autolite boots. On Saturday the truck threw a code for cylinder 8. I bought a bag of 8 used coils off a buddy who has a mustang buy a few months ago so I put one on, cleared the code and the miss went away. On the way home tonight the truck started missing hard, but no CEL. I use torque, so i did a scan anyway and it pulled a code for cylinder 7. I haven't been out to troubleshoot yet. Could I have done something wrong for 2 coils to go in such a short amount of time? I followed the write up in the tech folder. Used proper torque specs, dielectric grease, and anti-seize on everything.
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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Replaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
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So the previous owner of my V10 Ex had all the plugs changed and some of the coils needed to be changed at the same time.
Some have a yellow sticker on them. Some are plain black. The yellow ones say "Motorcraft" plainly on them.
The black ones look identical to the ones on my wife's Duratec 3.0L V6 in our Mazda MPV. They also have a Motorcraft part number on them.
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Back on February 14th ,I had my 2013 elantra gls towed to the service dept for arching and a rough idle. It was a code for #3 cylinder and a cleaning of the coils. Everything was good until again this morning ,only this time the engine light is on with all the same symptoms. There is 14,800 mile on it, I hope they get it right this time because it is a PITA to work this around my schedule at work.
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Code: P0303 Misfire on cylinder #3.
Swapped coil from cylinder #3 to cylinder #6 and fuel injector from #3 to #2.
Shows misfire is still on #3. Plug looks normal tan brown.
#3 is the middle cylinder closest to the firewall I take it.
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I am going to change the plugs to start trying to fix this. How do i remove the coils from the plugs. I cannot get the connector off and do not want to break it.
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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Monday I started my truck after leaving it in the garage while on a 8 day vacation. Shifting into reverse led to almost no movement at all. After a few seconds, I shifted back into park and then reverse again and got a solid reverse right away. I may have noticed sluggish shifting into reverse previously, but not this noticeable. What could be the culprit?
2001 Excursion 7.3 4x4 .....
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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So, my 2003 F150 4.6 that I just put back on the road after a four month break is running like crap. I took it off the road for the winter because it was missing (no codes) and didn't feel like dealing with it then but after running it for a day the CEL comes on. It shows the following:
P0304 - hoping it is a coil pack
P0456 - pending. Gas cap?
P0171 - pending. One bank too lean?
Does the 171 code possibly have to do with the misfire in Cylinder 4? I know it is impossible to tell yet but am hoping there is a potential connection.
Before I parked it in January, it was running a bit rough and stumbled on acceleration but never would show a code. Now all this. Going to change the coil first, tighten the gas cap, check for leaks and see what happens but is there anything common on these trucks that I should also be looking at?
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1998 ranger 4.0L. I ran my scanner on my truck to day and my 2 bank 1 sensors seem to be bouncing between .150 and .700 but my bank 1 sensor 2 seems to be stuck at 680-720 and not bouncing, is this normal?
I did pull a code po135 heater circuit malfunction BANK 1 SENSOR 1 ...
Also I am not sure where my fuel trims should be...
My
ST1 10.0
LT1 25.0
ST2 12.0
LT2 25.0
closed loop.
When I first got the truck I pulled codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also a cylinder #4 misfire and the bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit. I reset the codes and the heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1 popped the mil light in 5 min. So I am starting with the o2 sensors. I've not found any vacuum leaks at this point.
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5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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Just got back from the beach yesterday. On the way back I noticed the check engine light on and read the codes. It listed 4 codes, P0671,P0672, P0677 and P0678. From what I can find, Cylinder 1, 2, 7 and 8 have the glow plug circuit open. Truck ran fine and didn't miss a beat. Ambient temp was around 80 when we started up the truck so I guess diesel plugs are not to crucial for that temp. I did notice when driving back the Vbatt would jump from 12.2v at1854 RPM (34 MPH) and 13.8v at 1652 (57 MPH).
Would bad batteries or low batteries cause this type of problem? This may be wishful thinking on my part. I have tested the batts with a DMM and they are at 12.3v. I took them out and charged them but they always go down to 12.3v. FMP is 47.5v to 48.5v. It seems suspect that all four glow plugs would be bad so I assume it could be the harness. What are some ways I can test to verify where the problems come from.First thing I would do is get two new batteries as these are still under warranty.
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Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
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I recently purchased a 2005 Ex 6.8L V10 and I have been struggling to figure out the Cylinder 4 Misfire for close to 3 months. First thing I did was replace all 10 spark plugs with Motocraft plugs. Check engine stayed away for a few weeks... then came back. I next replaced just the #4 coli with a DG508 Motocraft coli I picked up at O'Reilly's. Again the check engine light stayed away for a few weeks.
Finally, I cleaned out #1-4 fuel injectors and swapped positions of #1 and #4. This time the check engine light stayed away for over a month. However, it just came back today, and again, it is #4. I am now at a loss for what to do. I assume it is not the fuel injector since I swapped the #1 and #4 injectors. If I have new plugs and a new coil pack, then what am i missing?
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I have an 01 2wd with 6.8L, 149K and had her for about 3 years now. Today I went out to leave work, inserted key and went to turn it on. As I reached the say 3/4 position all the dash lights came on as usual and then I heard a small "click" sound as I finished turning the key, then is just went loose. The key now has no resistance. it just sort of "free spins". not all of the way around or anything. She did not start and the dash lights are still on. Had to disconnect the battery to get dash lights off.
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I recently bought a 2002 Excursion limited v10. It's got a couple of issue, mostly small stuff. The biggest is that it recently developed a pretty bad misfire. The code I'm getting is p0359 which is for the coil on cylinder 9. So I changed that and I'm still getting the same code. I took it to the shop and they're saying that they are not getting a signal on the wiring harness for cylinder 9 and they think that it needs a computer. They want to check all the wiring first to eliminate the possibility of a short or bad connection. My question is, if the coil somehow shorts out against the block, can that burn out the computer?
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