Ford Excursion :: Code P0720 And Engine Stall / Transmission Or Stray Voltage?
Jul 12, 2015
Long time Ex owner. This is my second 2000, 4wd, Limited, 6.8 V-10. Just bought this one last month and after two weeks of local driving the following problem showed up:
1. Week of July 5 through 11: With vehicle cold (65*) started and placed in reverse to back out of garage. After slight movement engine stalled like a locked up torque converter or turning ignition off. CEL illuminated. Turned off ignition and restarted. Again in reverse had same stall. Third time no problem but CEL still on. Code is P0720 using "Actron Auto Scanner."
2. Erased Code P0720 (OSS circuit malfunction) and P0307 (Cyinder 7 Misfire Detected). Drove car approx 20 miles without incident. No stumbling, no vibration, no detectable misfire, shifts okay, speedometer okay.
3. Next day with vehicle cold, started to back out of garage and stalled with CEL illuminated and O/D light in shifter blinking. Recycled ignition, started and no O/D light but CEL still illuminated. Vehicle did not stall. Checked code and P0720 set.
4. Replaced OSS on tail shaft of transmission. Same stalling problem with P0720 set.
5. Replaced #7 COP w/aftermarket type to test possibility of bad COP because of earlier P0307 DTC. Same problem exists, first start of the day the vehicle will stall as soon as it starts to move in reverse.
6. Replaced rear ABS sensor. While doing so noticed the ABS sensor wire harness was rubbing the tailpipe and the split, wire conduit was partially melted. Inspected wires (2) within and both appeared okay. Safety wired the harness away from the tailpipe.
7. Let the vehicle sit awhile. Outside Air Temp 84*. Started, placed in reverse, moved a couple of feet and engine stalled and O/D light on steady. Recycled ignition and started again, backed out with no stall or warning lights. No CEL on. Drove 10 miles without incident.
8. Allowed vehicle to cool, started and attempted to back out of garage. Engine stalled, CEL illuminated and O/D light flashing, code P0720.
9. Sunday morning 12 July: 71*, Allowed vehicle to idle in P in garage for 10 minutes before trying to back out. Vehicle did not stall. CEL still on from previous day, no O/D light. Erased P0720 code. Vehicle operating normally.
10. Sunday Noon 12 July: 85*, Started, placed in reverse, backed out and no stall or CEL or O/D light.
After considerable research online at ford-trucks.com found P0720 is a common problem but not easily diagnosed. In most cases the gremlin is COPs and or deteriorated plug boots but in this situation the engine appears to run smoothly and the failure/errors only show up when the vehicle is moved in reverse gear after a cold startup. Once it stalls then restarted it runs fine.
Made a quick check of alternator for failed diode using DVM since I don't have a scanner. Checked okay for voltage and AC ripple. I do have an appointment on Wednesday with my local auto repair shop for troubleshooting. Will have them do continuity check between OSS and PCM and an AC ripple test. Does this sound like an electrical circuit problem or internal transmission problem? Want to make myself as smart as possible when I talk with the techs.
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I just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
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I have searched and found a few threads of folks getting a p0720 code and truck revving and dying. Just wondering how to resolve the issue and what the cause was. I have an 01 ex with v-10
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Okay, I have a P0720 code. I bought the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and read that it is on the back end of the transmission.
Need to confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
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Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
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I bought late 98 F-250, 5.4 G, 4WD. OHad to replace the steering flange because they messed up the ignition cylinder and flange. Truck didn't run for 4 years. 249K miles, no history available. Got the engine running, no DTCs. D, 3, 2, 1 barely moved the truck forward but, R hauled butt in reverse. Checked transmission fluid it was good and clean.
Came back to it a few days later it threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit) and I have no reverse, park feels like it wants to move, R is neutral, N is forward, D is forward, 3 is forward, 2 is forward, 1 is forward. The N is full drive. I cleared the P0720 code after it came up and it has not returned. The instrument gauges work but the odometer display is intermittent. Linkage? Fluid? Sensor? Wires?
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I'm having issues when shifting into reverse and I it goes into limp mode when the wrench light shows up. This will not happen when shifting into Drive. When in limp mode I get engine code P0720. This calls for a bad Output Speed Sensor and my research says the sensor is on the back of the transmission but I cannot find any sensors on the transmission. there are several connectors clipped to it but I don't see any bolted in sensors. Also I cannot find a replacement sensor anywhere so I'm wondering if this is a generic code.
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So just got a new pcm installed since i fried the last one anyway. I had a new trans installed almost two weeks ago factory 4r100 now i have a p0720 code. Id take it back to that dealer.
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2001 7.3 Excursion, full mods in sig line.
Recently started getting a P0720 for OSS on 4-6 pound launches, and the X will lurch and then stall out. It drives fine when I drive like a normal person, it also launches fine at 8psi and up (obliterates the tires in the process). Little curious as to where I should start looking beyond the usual culprits on checking the connector for corrosion and verifying the sensor itself is clean/still good.
Stupid thing drives like a peach everywhere else except the 4-6psi LAUNCH ONLY range. Normal driving through that pressure range is absolutely fine. 4-6 is the only problem child area.
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The last few days I've started getting the Wrench Light on my dash panel upon starting the truck and trying to put it into gear. I first noticed this on a cold morning and got the wrench but the truck went into Reverse and once I got going I was only in 3rd gear. I started and stopped the engine a few times and finally got it going. Since then it seems to do it all the time whether hot or cold. Tonight I noticed that if i start the engine and just go directly into Drive. I don't have the issue but if I ever go into Reverse it goes into limp mode and i get the big yellow wrench again. I only have engine Code P0720 which seems to refer to a speed sensor. I can't seem to find the sensor listed on the typical auto part websites.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4L engine, regular cab. The truck has 149000 miles on it. I bought it about a month ago and had the transmission rebuilt, the spark plugs and coils replaced. Apparently the shady dealer I bought the truck from had power washed the engine and there was water in 3 of the spark plug wells on the drivers side. When I got the truck back from the transmission shop and backed it out of the parking lot, the OD off light started flashing and the SEL light came on. The code showed to be a P0720 to which the mechanic at the transmission shop replaced the speed sensor on the top of the tranny.
He said if it comes on again then the speed sensor on the rear differential could be the problem and that he would have to charge me to replace that sensor since it isn't covered under the warranty for the transmission.. I replaced the sensor myself on the rear differential yesterday and thought the problem was fixed. I drove the truck around for 30 minutes with no problems, until I put the truck in reverse, then the OD off light started flashing and the SEL light comes on giving the same P0720 code.
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I have a 2002 F250 SD V10 4x4, that just started to randomly misfire [does not matter if the vehicle is in motion or in park]. I scanned the OBDII and found pending code P0720 (Output Speed Sensor). The CEL, O/D light, nor the ABS light illuminate. The speedometer functions normally.
This occurred Saturday after we got 12-18" of snow. I cleaned out the driveway, took a short drive (~ miles) & parked the truck (no symptoms). Later we went to 2 stores and then on the way home, the misfire started. The next day the misfire continues.
I have been searching & come up with the same posts that say the issue is not the OSS. It's usually a bad COP or bad wiring @ the OSS. The symptoms are not the same as when I had a COP go bad (only misfired under load between 1500 & 2500 rpm).
Personal issues: My truck does not fit in my garage, it's dark (and usually below 30 F) before I can get to look at it in the evening. Also, we are supposed to get another foot of snow tomorrow night.
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AutoZone provided this code for my check engine light: P0010.
Definition: Intake camshaft position actuator circuit open
Explanation: ECM has detected a low voltage on the VCT circuit
Probable Cause: 1) Open or short circuit condition on the VCT circuit; 2) failed VCT solenoid
Is there a part I can replace myself that can fix this, or is this a dealer repair?
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
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Just got the transmission rebuilt in my truck and other then shifting hard sometimes it has been doing great, Hooked it up to the goose neck this evening and everything was fine then went to back it up and pull it forward and after a short distance the od light was flashing and when i ran a check on it it was p0720? The transmission has less then 1000 miles on it?!?!? 1999 Ford F-250 7.3 Automatic....
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My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
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My hyundai 2004 sta fe awd 3.5 LX engine light came on while cruising dwn the freeway. At the same same time i heard a loud thud and speed went down from 65 to 40mph and a high idle. I drove it home and hook up the obd2 scanner and got P0720 suggesting bad output sensor. So I decided to buy new sensor from the dealership, put it in and thought it will fix the problem. After few days the engine light came on (P0720)again with the same clunk noise and speed down from 65 to to 40 mph at high rpm. Took it home, did some experiment by putting back the old sensor. I Connected the harness back, but this time I wrap the female connector with the electrical rubber tape and electrical vinyl tape. Problem fixed. No more engine light,transmission shift smoothly. I think the connector (harness side) to the output sensor was crack that's why its not making good solid connection. The rubber tape technique held the female connector pins tightly together. New part didn't do anything but it was a learning experience.
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Today I'm installing a UHF/VHF radio in the X and after I got the cable run through the firewall I started looking for either a) the best route to the battery or b) a junction box the PO put in of which I have many.
So as I'm poking around on the drivers side of the engine compartment I find a large bore wire that terminates into a junction block with 'caution, high voltage' printed on the cover. This is right under the area where all the other junction blocks, relays and alarm from the PO are. Unfortunately the PO used wire who's gauge is to small for my current needs.
The block in question is shown in the following photos. It can easily be seen just left of the 86 written on the side of the relay. You can see a bit of red positive cable going into the black box below the relays. My question is if this is an OEM box or something aftermarket.
Zoomed in: Large gauge wire with red entering the box
Zoomed out for reference
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I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
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Looking for a good diagram of the complete vacuum system on the AEB 1.8t 99 passat. I am throwing a 1136 code which is indicated as a "Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering". I recently finished a complete rebuild and engine is finally back in but running in limp mode. During the rebuild, I used mobil 1 synthetic as an assembly lube for all internal components including valve train.
I immediately wet fouled O2 sensors and spark plugs. After repeated removal and cleaning for plugs and O2 sensors i have progressed beyond seeing the "wet" fouling but plugs are still very rich, black in color but dry. Engine starts and runs at idle(lumpy) consistently and will run for as much as 5 minutes but very rich. If i rev engine to 3000-3500 rpm it will "POP" or backfire and immediately stall.
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