When my ex shifts from 1st to 2nd I get a clunk. If I let off the gas right when it shifts then it shifts normally. Also if I can get the rpms to 2000 or higher then it shifts fine.
View 13 Replies Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
I recently ran into the "clunking from the front end" problem with my Excursion. It is 2WD but this might apply to all. I had the clunk under my left foot while driving over a series of small bumps. It was a rapid clunking. One big bump, or things like speed bumps did not produce the noise or feel in my feet. Only rapid irregularities in the road at 35 mph or greater made it happen.
It made me crazy trying to figure it out. I tried everything. Both sets of swaybar links, shock mounts, track bar mounts, made sure brake calipers were tight, you name it. It showed its ugly head every time I hit small bumps in succession at speed. Even tried to re-seat the coil springs but that didn't work! My front bearings made NO noise. There was NO play in them by hand while up on jacks. I had taken them out and repacked them while replacing front brakes. At my wits' end, I went for a "hail mary" shot. I purchased new bearings. Took it all apart, packed the new bearings and replaced.
Low and behold! The damn "clunking" is now gone! So, in short, IF you have a clunking that nothing else seems to fix, just try replacing the bearings even IF you feel NO play in them. I couldn't believe that bearings that felt so tight by hand would be causing such clunking.
I've had a front end clunk best felt on the floorboards at very slow speeds on uneven ground. I've read for a month on this site on this issue and have replaced the ball joints and sway bar end links with Moog parts. New shocks also. Well I've improved but its still there. I cannot budge the trac bar bolts with breaker bar. The axle u bolts seemed loose so I tightened them but I'm not sure of the torque specs on them. What are the torque specs on the u bolts and where to go from here?
View 14 Replies2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
My 2004 V8 clunks when shifting gears, causing the engine to oscillate right through the seat. It also happens when driving a steady speed, e.g., 10MPH in traffic, and you goose the gas or release the gas altogether. So far:
1. Replaced transmission valve body
2. Replaced stepper motor
3. Replaced rear propellor shaft and bearing
I think this started with a reflash of the trans to cure the death lag.
When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
View 6 RepliesSo I can clearly see the track bar clunk in and out about 1/4 inch when the wheel is turned in either direction...guessing its time for new bushings.
What's the latest and greatest on these? or is "whatever they have on sale at summet from moog" is fine?
OEM only? Truck has a 4" lift, stock bar attached to the drop bracket.
Bought the EX from my sister 2 years ago, I know that she's had the ball joints replaced several times and have read on here how some people have only gotten 20K miles out of a set. Anyway, I have the same clunk and I spent one Saturday changing them out ( as well as new brakes and rotors ) I still have the same cluck sound. I've just read a thread on the hubs rattling and its related to the needle bearings wearing out. I'll lock it in 4WD to see if the clunk goes away but I don't think that's going to work.
Would bad / incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings make this same sound? When doing the ball joints, I saw one set must have been rebuilt since the locknut looked brand new and the other side showed its been there a while.
Locked my hubs and used the 4WD for the first time this winter, every this was fine until I started hearing a thump thump thump on drivers side. It continued after shutting off the 4wd until I unlocked the hubs. Have not been able to get under it yet..
View 3 RepliesLately when shifting gears, there's this clunking noise as I let off the clutch. It happens more often than not when I'm in traffic and I upshift without giving any gas on the clutch release. Currently got 13k km on my car.
View 1 RepliesLast summer my 04 SantaFe (140,000 mi, automatic) would feel like it was sticking and bumping when backing out of a parking space, then after shifting into Drive it would jerk and then make a huge thunking noise when applying the gas pedal. However, this would only happen sometimes, not all the time, and was not dependent upon the weather, surface, whether it had just been driven or not, etc. It would just happen when it happened. I brought it to the Hyundai garage and they replaced an axle and sensor. I continued having the same problem, brought it back to the garage and they replaced the viscous coupler.
I continued to experience the same problem after that, brought it back to the garage and they had the car for 10 days. I was told they had to get a mechanic in who was familiar working on 04 Santa Fe's and they determined the axle they replaced was bad, so they put in a new one. Everything ran great until I brought the car in early February for an "off balance ceiling fan" noise when accelerating. I brought the car to the Hyundai garage again and had the transfer case replaced.
Now the "clunking/grinding" is back when moving from R to D!!! So I brought it back to the garage again Monday and they said they cannot find anything wrong, and they are convinced it's just a symptom of the age and mileage of the car. However, it happened again today, but worse than ever before. This time it felt like it might not even move from R to D, and then it continued the grinding and bumping after accelerating and then the car felt "sluggish". I am convinced something is really wrong, although they assured me at the garage that the transmission is good, the axle, sensor and boot are all good etc. What else could it be?
Occasional clunk when truck is shifting gears. Not consistent. On highway at high acceleration clunk is more apparent. Any thoughts. 2004 v10 with new engine placed at 70,000km now at 85000km. Otherwise truck is running great.
View 8 RepliesWhen accelerating from a stop, I get a clunking sound from the front end. I took some pics of the sway bar and I think it maybe loose. There is a gap between the bolt between the bar. Is this normal, or can I tighten it with the X on the ground or does it have to be up on a lift to properly tighten?
View 14 RepliesReplaced front leaf springs to procomp, now i got a clunking noise from right leaf spring rear eye(and a little bit from the left).
Can it be that:
I've tighten them to much? Wrong way (big eye is in front)? Got about 4" lift in front and haven't received rear leveling kit yet so the angel is wrong?
I plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
I have the CaryT V/ modded B 33" kit installed, and re-torqued after 200 miles. But since the install the EX pulls to the left and I have a clunking in the front end. The alignment shop said they have my alignment "dead nuts", and it must be my tires. Well I replaced my tires and wheels and I still have the pulling problem.
The clunking I believe is coming from the adjustable track bar, the torque wrench only goes to 250 ft/lbs so went to 250 and then tightened a little more. I have no way to measure the 396 ft/lbs in the specs.
I need to replace the rubber axle bumper guards. I have a clunking noise from the left front going over bumps. Troubleshooting I found the left front axle bumper guard is missing, right side is missing chunks and dry rotted. I had a question about how they attach. The one that is missing looks like a rusted bolt snapped off. Is it safe to assume a bolt goes right thru the center of the bumper guard into the frame? Couldn't tell on the right side it is in bad shape. Right front bolt may have sheared off on the bottom and just held in on the top by what is left.
View 5 RepliesHave had some issues with some intermittent clunking when I shift or let off the gas. It only clunks when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 or when I am btw 1500-2500 rpms and let off the gas to coast a bit. There are times when it won't clunk at all or it does it all the time, I can shift fast or slow doesn't matter. The dealership I bought the car from couldn't find anything wrong on my last service. Also when I put the clutch in sometimes I hear a bit of a clunk as well. Also I notice moving the shifter from gear to gear when shifting feels very notchy, but most of the times its smooth.
View 8 RepliesI Own A 92 Chevy Silverado, 154 K Miles. Runs Great! My Problem? I Experience Rough Shifting At First Take Off, After She Warms Up The Shifting Is Smooth. After Parking And Starting Again, Rough Shifting With A clunking Sound.
View 9 Replies