Ford Excursion :: Charging Battery On Travel Trailer While Driving?
Jun 1, 2012
Does the Excursion charge the battery on my travel trailer while driving? I never boondocks but have a new electric tongue jack and wonder about that. I know it charges with a shore line I just assumed it did while driving too.
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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So I finally towed our new to us travel trailer home tonight and the spot I created at my house to park it in required a lot of backing to get it shoe-horned in its place. As I was almost finished I smelled a burning smell and my wife said she saw some smoke from under the hood. I had neglected to look at my newly installed trans temp gauge during all the maneuvering as I was watching my mirror and the trailer so closely.
The gauge had reached ~180F and it was only about 55F outside. I know this violated the ambient plus 100 rule, so I allowed it to idle and cool down to 140 or less. When I got the trailer unhooked and the Ex back in the garage I crawled under it and the smell was definitely burnt tranny fluid and it was coming from the front of the bell housing or the access hole for the torque converter, not 100% sure.
So my question is, have I toasted my tranny, or was it just a mild overheat situation and it will recover just fine? If I am towing and the trans temp gets above 180 again will it start leaking most likely? Is it just something like a pump seal that I could drop the tranny and replace relatively easily, or have I most likely done internal damage. Hoping I did not just cost myself a tranny build on a truck with only 73k miles :-(.
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I am putting a winch on my trailer and I got an optima marine battery to run the winch. I would like to wire it into my trailer wiring so that it will charge off the truck while its running, but so that it won't draw off the truck's wiring while I'm winching... I'm worried about the size of the wire and the fuse on the factory hitch wiring. I'm probably not going to be doing any extended winching, just pulling things up on the trailer. I may just unhook it from the wiring whenever I'm winching?
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On our way home from North Carolina, we stopped for lunch. When walking back to the truck, I noticed a huge oil puddle underneath the truck. It took about a quart to bring it to the middle line on the stick. Kept driving it home with oil blowing underneath the truck and covering the travel trailer (very unhappy wife!!). Where to look? It looks like it's coming from the valley and pouring down the back. I just replaced the oil cooler when I did the egr delete. I used about 1.25 gallons on the way home.
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What is the color wire coming out of the fuse box for the Trailer Tow Battery Charge? It's number 115 in the fuse box and a 20amp FMX fuse I believe. It's a 2005 6.0l 2WD Eddie Bower Excursion...
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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I am having a problem with trailer lights and an 03 350. When the truck is in reverse the fuse for travel trailer running lights and tail lights blows immediately. Changing plugs on the truck did not work. Truck has been hooked up to 4 other trailers including another travel trailer with no problems. Our travel trailer has been hooked up to an 08 and a 2011 truck with no problems. Fuse 38 20 amp. 7 post rv plug.
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I just bought a 2012 Prius c. There are oftentimes when I don't drive my car for a few days. When this happens, I have heard that the car might not start, especially in the winter. Is this true?
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195k miles.... I have charged the battery, I have bought a new battery, I have Charged the new battery... All with no avail.. Slowly but surely one at a time the abs trac control and stability control lights come on and eventually the triangle of death... Meaning when I shut it off its not going to restart.. If i drive it sparingly it might take a week if i drive it all day then it takes one day... when fully charged there is no warning or sign that there is a battery issue or draining untill the voltage is starting to get low. I have an ultra gauge hooked up and shows 14.14 while driving, I am lost as to whats the issue. also no codes or pending codes... I have taken the new battery to auto zone and had a functional test done.. said checked good... signed befuddled
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I have both a hydraulic dump trailer with two 12v batteries and an RV trailer with two 6v batteries to supply 12v. Both trailer's batteries are wired to be charged from the tow vehicle if the TV is equipped with a charge line.
Does the OEM 7 pin connector on a 2005 Ford 6.0 F250 CC 4X4 have a charging line on it? If so which terminal / pin is it?
What gauge of wire is it and how much amperage will it deliver to the connector? For testing, when is it hot? When the truck is running only? When the key is on? Is it hot all of the time?
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How I can charge my hybrid battery while driving on city streets with an average speed of 35-45MPH. Once I get off the highway, the hybrid battery is almost full, only missing two "bricks" or "Bars." I will then accelerate very slowly only using the electric motor to drive the vehicle for the next couple of miles.
Once the battery has depleted to where it only has two bars, I will then accelerate a little faster to run the engine so it can charge the battery. But, I bring up the energy monitor and then watch the arrows.. making sure that arrows are coming out of then engine to drive the vehicle AND making sure that the electric motor is not supporting the engine.
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So I have a very confusing problem. In my 92 Chevy Astro the battery occasionally stops charging runs down and dies while I am driving and will not restart via jump but must be fully charged. This first happened a couple months and several thousand miles ago but has occurred 3 times in the last two weeks. Both the battery and the alternator have checked out good, and the alternator belt is tight as a drum. What could this possibly be?
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I have a noise in the front end that is only happening during suspension travel. It is really bad on bumpy roads. I thought it was my sway-bar end links but they are a year old and tight. I have checked the shocks and they are tight. It sounds like a clunking noise. Could the front drive axles be making this noise while not locked in?
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Hooked up the trailer today for the first time, i have running lights, right turn signal, and no left blinker. left bulb looks good. dual filament. #6 fuse inside truck looks good, can't figure out why no left blinker... trailer worked fine on my previous truck. Not sure what to tackle next..
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I have a 2001 ford excursion with the v10 . Yesterday it just died from no power from the charging system. I cleaned all my connection from the battery to the ground straps and my question is in the back of the alternator where the large wire connections with that disconnected. Should I not see current coming out of the bolt on the alternator.
I connected a test light to the body and the test side to the large electrical bolt on the back of the alternator and It would not light ? is the voltage regulator inside the alternator . I also found and a repair a worn fuse link that connected at the starter selonoid and i did make sure the wire from the back of the alternator to the starter selonoid has continuity.
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Inconsistent connection through 7 wire plug and no taillights on four wire plug.
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Last week we were camping, the site we were on had a downhill slope to it. Since I had to reverse and align my trailer with the hookups I remember hearing something on here about putting it in 4WD before trying to reverse up hill. As I did this and slowly reversed I started getting smoke, nice and white with a little bit of a burnt smell to it but not bad. There was also some slightly mucous liquid on the ground that had almost no smell and a slight red tint to it. I freaked out thinking my transmission was shot but after reparking (doing a loop and staying in drive) there were no more leaks/drops and issues. I've driven another 500 miles since then and notice no difference shifting. How to avoid it
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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Is there a fusible link from the alternator to the battery? The new alternator that I put on and got tested is not charging the battery. Was wondering if it could be a fusible link but I couldn't find it. Where it is located on a 2000 ranger?
Also, I put a DC volt meter on the negative side of the battery and the positive side of the CHARGING wire that would be connected to the alternator and got the same reading as if I put the meter on the positive of the battery.
Does this mean the fusible link is good?
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2000 7.3 180,000 miles. It sounded like I was in passing gear from the turbo but not as loud or strong. The tach never moved like it would if it was in passing gear. We kicked it in and out of overdrive, pushed the O/D, no change. Then while driving it would just go quite/back to normal. Oh forgot, this was while pulling a cargo trailer with a total weight of about 4,500 lbs...
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