I decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
View 14 RepliesBought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
View 14 RepliesWe've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
View 4 RepliesI have a 86 Suzuki samurai that I have just swapped a vw 1.9 turbo diesel into with a gm 3 wire 10si 110amp alternator.
Wire number 2 is looped back onto the 12v post and has 12v at all times
Wire number 1 is hooked into my dash light.
Key on engine off it reads 0v with the dash light on, key on engine on it reads just below battery voltage and dash light is off. The 12v post is hooked into my stock wiring connected to my brand new battery. Today I had my battery and my alternator bench tested and they both came back functioning normally.
My issue is I'm never reading above battery voltage with the engine on (either from the post on the alternator or my battery). I grabbed a used alternator locally and I was having the same issue. However with that one if I pulled the positive lead from the battery with the engine running it would read 14.3v until I would hook it back to the battery where it would drop back to battery voltage. I was able to repeat that behaviour mutlitple times until I ended up killing the alternator. My other alternator is new and I don't wish to damage it pulling the positive lead but I'm betting it's functioning the same way.
What in my system could be causing this? The truck is pretty old and doesn't have a ecm or much of any electrical and I just can't figure out what's going on. Its like some kind of feedback is shutting down the alternator when it gets hooked up to the battery.
So far I've tried temporarily adding grounds with jumper cables :
Measured 0.2ohm resistance between my ground cable and the alternator housing
Measured 0.0ohm resistance between my positive lead and the 12v post on alternator
I've also tried pulling all the relays and accessories I've added to the positive lead with no change. Camping weather is quickly approaching and I need my truck back on the road!
I have a 2001 5.4 4x4 supercrew with 300,000 miles.. This truck is my baby. Recently when I start it up and after putting it in gear and begin taking off my engine is loud as if I am revving the engine without any indication in the rpms. I want to say it starts out on the trip a tad sluggish. Is there anything I can do to eliminate?
View 1 RepliesOkay, I have a P0720 code. I bought the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and read that it is on the back end of the transmission.
Need to confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
View 14 RepliesI removed my drift shaft to get balanced since I have felt a vibration at 55-60 mph. After removing the driveshaft I noticed there is some play in the output shaft when I grab a hold of the yoke on the transmission. The play is a slightly up and down. If my memory serves me right that should not be. Seal is not leaking but need diagram of this yoke off the output shaft. I know in past on other vehicles there is sometimes a crush washer. Also what is the torque specification for that output shaft nut?
View 3 RepliesI just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
So I recently got APR stage 1 low output (93 octane v1.2) installed and loving it so far on my '15 GTI. I went with the low output tune after hearing many clutch slipping issues and since this is my daily driver and i need reliability, didn't want to risk it too much. BUT... I am starting to wonder about the regular output. Going low to high, worth it? Seems like a 20-29 hp difference would be a lot. Have the stage 1 regular tune and no clutch slipping issues?
View 24 RepliesHave got a 2006 Azera 3.3 (same engine as Sonata and have had no luck in the Azera section) which is showing Check Engine Light and P0171 code. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are very high. I have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
Have got a Azera 3.3 which is showing P0171 CEL. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are well out. Have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
I am trying to change the alternator in my dohc but cant get it out, I am trying to remove the pulley on the crankshaft and cannot figure out how to remove it. How to get the alternator out???????
View 10 RepliesLooking for Instructions and pictures...
View 1 RepliesComing home tonight I drove the last 10 minutes in total darkness with only enough power apparently to keep fuel pump running. I just replaced the alternator two weeks ago but it seems to have gone again. At the alternator I have 11.3v at idle. There is a two wire plug plus the power cable. One of the wires has constant on power. The other has nothing. It is not switched even though I think it is supposed to be. Is it fused somewhere?
View 7 RepliesMy Ex is missing the label showing the serpentine belt routing diagram. I pulled one off the Autozone website for V10 with AC. It showed that there are 2 idler pulleys (one on the left and right side of the alternator). It also has the tensioner pulley.
I only have a tensioner on the left side of the alternator. The one on the right is missing. There appears to be a threaded hole where a pulley should go. Since I bought this used, I thought the previous owner took it off.
I used the bolt from the old tensioner pulley I replaced for the hardware and put a new pulley on.
I also looked at other V10s on used car lots and none of them had the pulley to the right of the alternator. Should there be one there?
have a 2003 infiniti m45...was showing the battery light; co-worker tested with a ohm meter and the reading was 12.5(before stalling); suggested the alternator was bad. Just replaced the alternator and now the ignition won't even turn over(dead as a door knob)...before the change, removed the battery(which is dead by now), followed the steps and now I'm dumbfolded...what could be wrong?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Big X. Original alternator was replaced as it only was producing 9 volts under a load. Replacement alternator failed within a day. Did I just get a bad re-manufactured one or would something else cause failure?
View 14 Replies2005 Excusrion V10 6.8L .. Have the PO720 code ..
Replaced alternator it was bad when tested
Replaced OSS - the voltage on this when running varies in the 1.3 - 1.7 range.
What should the ohm voltage read? What would you try next?