Ford Excursion :: Cabin Drone That Sets In At About 75 Mph?
Dec 7, 2013
What is the reason for the cabin drone that sets in at about 75 mph? The drone gets much less at about 90 mph and then almost disappears. When I take my foot off the gas pedal within that speed range, the drone seems to be gone.
My Ex V10 2004 4x4 has the following mods:
(1) SUSPENSION LIFT. ProComp 4".
(2) GEARS. Re-geared to 4.56.
(3) PERFORMANCE. Banks PowerPack, i.e. Banks cold air intake, Banks exhaust manifolds, Banks y-pipe, and Banks Automind programmer.
(4) EXHAUST. Flowmaster Super 44 muffler, single-in-dual-out (SIDO). Stock cat remained in place.
(5) WHEELS. Moto Metal MO951 Chrome wheels, 20x10, 8/170, ET -18, BSM 4.79, with 35/12.5/20 (315/60/20) Nitto Trail Grappler tires.
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I have a 97 f250 and when i start it up i get 5 sets of 5 beeps from the airbag computer box . What the code is ?
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I'm going to wire up a few sets of LED lights under the side rails in the bed of my F350 and connect them to the Aux 4. 2 Questions:
1. What's the best way to feed the wire from the upfitter switch out of the cab? Is there a way too feed it out the back, behind the rear seats? Or do you think it would be easier to route it under the cab, out through one of the sill plates?
2. Can I ground it to any clean piece of metal on the frame? Will this create possible issues with the stereo and feedback (ground loop).
The LEDs I'm using are a series of 24 LEDs that are bright white. I wired them into my duck boat under the gunnel rails and they're perfect and work great and their just super glued in place and have been through 3 duck seasons and work like new and are still attached like new.
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We are putting a truck back together after converting a single cab to crew cab and struck a problem. Every time you hit the brake pedal the door locks continually try to lock themselves. Any clues as to the problem or what to test to find out for sure?
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MY mk4 key fob has been working just fine till the other day. I went to unlock the doors with the key fob and the alarm started to sound. Proceeded to unlock the doors with the actual key and then that shut the alarm off. So I can only lock my car with the key itself now. I changed the battery out of the fob and still nothing. Every time I go to hit unlock it triggers the alarm.
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I have a 1998 F-250 LD 4x4 with 462,000 km. I have been hearing for some time quite a drone coming from the rear axle. I am guessing the wheel bearings are due, as both front ones have been replaced, but never the rear. More about the noise, I hear it come to life as I gain speed. The faster, the louder. If I decelerate the noise is still present, but volume significantly decreases. Should I change the oil and friction modifier and see if there's an improvement or go ahead and change both bearings too?
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2002 5.4L XLT. Just want to upgrade the exhaust on a budget to get better mpg. Pretty settled on a Flowmaster 40 swapped in, no fancy pipes or tips or anything. Just wanted to know how the interior drone was at highway speeds (75-80). I drive 15-20 min of highway to/from work give or take if I get off and take back roads home.
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I plan on putting a catback exhaust on my 2016 F350 6.2 gas engine. I have always loved the sound of Flowmaster exhaust but over years have started to become slightly annoyed with the drone in the cab. Is there a exhaust system out there that is capable of sounding like Flowmaster but without the in cab drone.
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I have a 96 f250 7.3 I just cut the cat and muffler, and developed a drone @ 1900 rpms. if I shift out of OD it goes away if I get to that rpm in OD it drones. What would be my best plan of attack to get rid of the drone? Hollow out the cat and re install?
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Having issues with Elantra 2011 and their remote car starter? My car starter occasionally sets off the car alarm. I will be bringing my car to the dealer this week for the 5th time to try to solve this problem.
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Elantra has set for a couple months. Wife totaled her other car so is gonna start driving this again. Well any ways wen the car sets and idles it starts to overheat. When driving it never gets hot. New thermostat and fluids...
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I've got a 2008 chev 2500 6.0 liter. This is a intermittent problem. Turn the key "click" nothing happens, try again it starts. Clock sets back to 1200. Chev garage says it's not starter because clock sets back to 1200. Lights will slightly flicker when you step on the brakes. Grounds have been cleaned, battery 1 year old. Ignition switch tumblers working hard. Any guesses. Chev garage cure is run it til it dies.
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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I just took off my 20" rims and put my stock rims back on for the winter but now I have a humming from the front end that starts at about 15mph and increases loudness to 40mph. At 40mph I can start to feel a light vibration in the wheel and through my feet.
My first thought was the wheels are not balanced but they are fairly new and barely used and where fine at the end of last winter. It just doesn't seem like that is the issue. As I was thinking about it more, when I had the 20"s on I remember thinking it seems like the road noise is considerable louder recently but I just passed it off as the low profile tires because they are in fact a lot louder than the stock tires. After putting the stock wheels on I was expecting to have my nice quiet and comfortable ride back like I always do during this time of year but not this time.
I tried driving in tight circles but I couldn't get the car going fast enough to see if it was a wheel bearing on one side.
It's an 04 camry XLE V6.
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I have a low drone sound when accelerating, what this could be? Is the Water Pump going?
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So I think after 106k miles my VR6 is ready for bearings. It started as a whirring sound from the front drivers side, and now I'm getting a drone like sound right when I hit around 25 mph, almost like someone with exhaust is driving next to me wanting to race. Feels like it's coming from the rear though.
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I've been dealing with a frustrating issue for a while now. Whenever I use my key fob the alarm sets but my front and back driver side doors won't lock. After playing around I've noticed that the driver's side door locks when actually inserting the key and turning. Also, all of the doors lock when I am sitting in the driver's seat and push the lock button on the door panel but the back driver's side door won't unlock unless I crank the vehicle and hit the unlock button. I don't think the key fob has a low battery because I've used both key fobs and it locks one side but not the other. It's all very weird to me. The situation is frustrating for two reasons:
1) Doors are not actually locking so thieves have access to whatever they can grab and run away;
2) I occasionally forget to hit the unlock button and cause my alarm to go off and annoy neighbors, coworkers, etc.
What could be causing this? I'd like a quick fix but I'm afraid I'm going to have to open up the door panels and play around all weekend.
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I have what seems to be flat spots on both my rear tires. I've been getting a drone sound and vibration from the rear end and thought it was bad wheel bearings, but when I had it up on the lift the tech said my rear shocks are bad and caused this tire wear. The shocks aren't leaking and the handling seems fine...I don't get it.
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Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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My car definitely has a driveline vibration, but the steering wheel also vibrates. All vibrations are, however, intermittent as to when they come and go, and the intensity - on both the chassis and the steering wheel - can also vary.
Tires and wheels have been ruled out with 99.9% confidence at this point... What puzzles me is how a driveline issue in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle can affect the steering wheel (even though it can certainly explain the shaking of the whole car). In the end, it's all connected to the same body, but still... I am even wondering if my car has this driveline vibration PLUS something else (e.g., control arms in the front suspension appear to be a popular replacement part in these cars according to other threads).
Here is a link to the TSIB that I borrowed from another thread: [URL] ....
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