I am getting a burning smell from the drivers side rear wheel. It does not seem to occur all of the time but when it does, when I get out of the truck I can smell it. We found its location just by smelling around the truck.
The brakes are not noticeably grinding and I don't recall ever getting a smell like this from brakes.
After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
View 13 RepliesJust like the title states, there is an intense burning smell (like plastic or electronic) inside my 2007 chevrolet equinox. I first noticed it this morning; last night there was no smell. The smell is most intense on the driver's side under the steering column. I checked the fuses and none of them are blown and everything seems to be working on the interior of the car. I am having electrical issues with the back windshield wiper not working and the passenger airbag seat indicator not working, but both of those issues have been going on for a while now. The only other issue I know of is that sometimes (but not every time) my key won't come out of the ignition when I turn the egine off. To get it out, I push the little release button on the interior of the steering column. I have been doing this for about a year now, but I wouldn't think that that would have anything to do with a burning smell....
View 5 RepliesI always smell oil burning when I drive my Ex.
I don't have leaky valve covers and I don't have a lot of oil on the side of the engine.
What I did notice was there was a lot of oil in the intake tract. It's coming from the tube on the left side of the engine where it connects the driver's side valve cover to the intake tube before the throttle body.
What would cause this?
My PCV valve is clean and flows one way as it should. The plunger inside moves freely.
So I had been smelling an electrical/rubber burning smell on the Ex about a month ago. After a week or so I popped the hood and poked around. This is what I found!
Now I had a no start in May. The shop that I had it towed to checked the wiring harness, replaced the cam sensor, scratched the truck up and ran through 2 tanks of fuel.
I repaired the harness and all is good. What the 3 wires run/go to.
One was solid Gray with a white stripe.
One was solid Black with a yellow stripe.
One was Tan with a green strip.
The rear most drivers side window, behind the spare, is not working. It has been intermittent since new but always worked at the dealer. Now its out of warranty.
View 14 RepliesSo far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
I have been noticing a gas smell coming from the rear drivers side. There isnt any traces of gas on my garage floor. But I have noticed that I have been buying gas more frequently.
View 2 RepliesI've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
What is that Burning Smell?
View 14 RepliesI recently puchased a 2012 F-150 with the "ecoboost" engine. Recently I've been noticing an odor of what seems to be like rubber burning coming from the rear end of the truck.
It's very prominent when I stomp the gas pedal, with the traction control disabled especially. There's quite a bit of smoke coming from the rear, and the truck seems to over-accelerate for a V6. Should I take it to the dealer for repair?
Got home today and smelled the "oil burning" smell. Blue smoke, didn't smell like brake pads. The smoke was evident from the right rear wheel. Put her in the garage and pulled the wheel. By the time this was done there was no smoke and no fluid anywhere, but there may not have been when it was smoking either. The drum was hot, the axle housing was not hot until closer to the drum/disc/wheel. The differential was slightly warm. Vent was not plugged. No obvious accumulation of lube or fluid on the inside of the wheel. Plenty of disc pad left. The actuator for the emergency brake that sticks out the back of the brake/plate assembly was super hot.
If I decide to pull the hub/rotor to inspect the brake shoes am I getting in far enough to commit to doing a full hub/bearing/seal inspect replacement? I'm getting old enough to pay a shop for this stuff and save my back, but if it's a no-brainer repair to get new seals I'd like to do it and save some bucks. Might as well do both sides right?
I'll be driving cross-country in June with a slide-in camper and want it done rather than a band aid job. It's never been checked before. 2006 F350 -- 150k miles. I'll keep searching the forum for answers but would like some opinions...
I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
Having rubber-like burning smell from the rear-right of 2009 Sonata?
View 4 RepliesOkay so I changed my rear brakes, disc and pads on March 18th. The change went okay. Now I'm getting a burning smell from the front pad, specifically the passenger side.
View 1 RepliesToday I noticed a strong burning rubber or plastic smell coming out of the right rear wheel well. All other wheel wells did not have this odour.
We had a bout of freezing temp's here recently and some snow, I'm wondering if the brake on that wheel may have seized slightly through the all wheel drives tourque vectoring or through parking brake use.
I'm going to drive it to the dealership tomorrow without making an appointment in hopes they will look at it right away as making an appointment this time of year is probably going to take forever.
Something I might be missing or can do?
I have a 2000 Outback, 80K, and I've been having brake issues. The first thing I noticed was a burning brake smell. I pulled over and found that my two front wheels were very hot. I pumped the brakes a few times and let them cool down and drove on. Pulled over in a bit to check them and they were fine. Took the car to the dealer who said, "We can't really find anything wrong with the fronts, but the backs are sticking a bit and we fixed that." So, off I went. Of course, it happened again. Left front seemed the hottest, but this time I noticed that the rear wheels were warm as well. Took it in again. Again, "We don't know." "Could it be the calipers or the lines or the ABS chip," I asked? "Well, yeah, maybe the front calipers." So they replaced the front calipers.
Picked it up and noticed two things of interest on the print out: "Rear brakes hanging up," and the front pads are a 8mm and the rear at 3mm! Hm... Seemed fishy to me. I had all the pads replaced a year and half ago. The last set lasted 75K, so this is odd, as is the discrepancy between back and front. I had the dealer pull the service record. In May the rear were at 5mm. Two weeks ago they were at 3.5mm. Yesterday they were a 3mm. I asked, "What would cause that?" They said, "Well, probably whoever did your brake job didn't clean the brakes up well so they are getting stuck and wearing down." I took the car and drove 60 miles, mostly on the highway. Fronts wheels were cool. Rear wheels were warm to hot.
I have an 04 2.8 v6 5spd. I have recently began smelling oil burning as in leaking on exhaust or something. There is no visible oil under the car, on the engine and no oil at all on ground even with car parked for days. It seems to be from the backside of the engine on passenger side. I am thinking a leaky valve cover gasket. I know a drop of oil will burn and smell strongly. I still want to fix it though. Should I just get a valve cover gasket kit and replace them. Its very hard to see back there.
View 7 RepliesI have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
After driving the corolla 10 mi or more , I always smell burning rubber at the rear tires.
Could it be the rear alignment?
Is it adjustable?
I bought a 2012 Sonata limited a month ago and have no complaints so far. I have never owned a Hyundai before and just wanted to ask if a burning smell above rear wheels after driving a bit is normal , due to the fact that the car is still technically breaking in ? It has 850 km on it. I can not smell that rubber burning odour when I park outside though. But when I park in my garage and just walk around or try to get something from my trunk I do get the smell. It used to come form both rear wheels and now it seems to be coming from the right one only, just above exhaust system. I checked the rear rims and breaks for temperature and they do not seem to be any hotter than the front ones. I did get undercoat shield protection called Platinum Shield frome the dealer and from what I could see it does not look like that they put anything on the exhaust system itself.
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