Ford Excursion :: Burning Smell From Rear Driver Side Wheel
Mar 8, 2012
After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
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I am getting a burning smell from the drivers side rear wheel. It does not seem to occur all of the time but when it does, when I get out of the truck I can smell it. We found its location just by smelling around the truck.
The brakes are not noticeably grinding and I don't recall ever getting a smell like this from brakes.
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Today I noticed a strong burning rubber or plastic smell coming out of the right rear wheel well. All other wheel wells did not have this odour.
We had a bout of freezing temp's here recently and some snow, I'm wondering if the brake on that wheel may have seized slightly through the all wheel drives tourque vectoring or through parking brake use.
I'm going to drive it to the dealership tomorrow without making an appointment in hopes they will look at it right away as making an appointment this time of year is probably going to take forever.
Something I might be missing or can do?
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A few months ago I bought a used 2008 Mazda3s sedan, and ever since I get an intermittent burning rubber smell from my rear left wheel. I recently got new tires, brake pads, and had the rotors turned, with no change.
The smell does not always happen, it will be there maybe one out of 3 or 4 times, and it is more likely to happen after long drives (e.g., one hour highway driving).
The wheel well also feels very hot. The obvious answer would be that the brake caliper is sticking, causing friction, heat, and the burning smell. However, if I touch the rotor it feels the same lukewarm temperature as the other three.
One additional thought is that this is caused by the exhaust, which is right next to this wheel well. I have noticed that the area of the floor of the trunk right above the exhaust gets very hot, which I had not seen in any other car I owned.
Could it be that the exhaust is causing the rubber of the tire (or something else) to overheat and smell bad? Visually, it does not look like the tire has a different wear or different appearance, compared to any other one.
This may or may not be related: my handbrake seems to be useless If I leave it on I can easily drive with little to no noticeable slowdown... I guess the previous owner did not read the part of the manual where it says you have to release the handbrake before you drive.
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Just like the title states, there is an intense burning smell (like plastic or electronic) inside my 2007 chevrolet equinox. I first noticed it this morning; last night there was no smell. The smell is most intense on the driver's side under the steering column. I checked the fuses and none of them are blown and everything seems to be working on the interior of the car. I am having electrical issues with the back windshield wiper not working and the passenger airbag seat indicator not working, but both of those issues have been going on for a while now. The only other issue I know of is that sometimes (but not every time) my key won't come out of the ignition when I turn the egine off. To get it out, I push the little release button on the interior of the steering column. I have been doing this for about a year now, but I wouldn't think that that would have anything to do with a burning smell....
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2002 Excursion Limited V10, 96k miles...
History - 3 of 4 calipers have been replaced, to include the caliper on the suspect wheel, along with new brake lines. On occasion, while driving, i can smell the brakes. It emanates from the right rear wheel. I'm reluctant to think it's the caliper. At this point I'm thinking the him needs replaced. Any reason for this too is, on occasion the ABS light will flicker on.
I'm uncertain as to the cause of this because of it's intermittent nature - both the brake smell and the ABS light. When the ABS light comes on, it only flickers on, but when it goes out, the speedometer will drop to zero and come right back up. The truck has an electrical ghost, I know. For that matter, the door ajar light is always on, and the codes say it's all four door sensors - it's not the sensors, and it's not the GEM.
More importantly, though, I need to figure out the issue in the right rear wheel.
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I always smell oil burning when I drive my Ex.
I don't have leaky valve covers and I don't have a lot of oil on the side of the engine.
What I did notice was there was a lot of oil in the intake tract. It's coming from the tube on the left side of the engine where it connects the driver's side valve cover to the intake tube before the throttle body.
What would cause this?
My PCV valve is clean and flows one way as it should. The plunger inside moves freely.
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The seat in my 2000 gasser Limited is 3" to the right of the steering wheel and lines up with it on the left side. Is that normal?
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So I had been smelling an electrical/rubber burning smell on the Ex about a month ago. After a week or so I popped the hood and poked around. This is what I found!
Now I had a no start in May. The shop that I had it towed to checked the wiring harness, replaced the cam sensor, scratched the truck up and ran through 2 tanks of fuel.
I repaired the harness and all is good. What the 3 wires run/go to.
One was solid Gray with a white stripe.
One was solid Black with a yellow stripe.
One was Tan with a green strip.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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The rear most drivers side window, behind the spare, is not working. It has been intermittent since new but always worked at the dealer. Now its out of warranty.
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So far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
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Got home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
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Started hearing a squeak from drivers front wheel area when turning right, thought maybe pads might need replacing but they were fine as were the pins. So I checked for play with tire off ground and there was def some play pulling from top to bottom, so that lead me to the front hub, I read some posts about pulling the abs sensor and getting some grease in the the hub bearing so I did that but when I replaced the sensor and spun the hub it was scrubbing on the bearing.?
So I shimmed the sensor with a washer but now the abs light comes on but there doesn't seem to be a squeak when turning right anymore. Any example of doing this and had the sensor scrub? And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon...
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
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I have a 93 Aerostar RWD 4.0L that I was driving around town a few weeks ago and I noticed it wasn't braking that well. The pedal is usually firm but easy to push and very sensitive...instead it was a lot firmer and didn't brake as quickly when i put my foot down. The van itself felt a little under powered, like something was holding it back and I had to put my foot down a lot more to get it up to speed. After awhile I began getting a really bad burning smell coming in through the driver window. I pulled over and saw small faint lines of smoke coming out of the front driver side wheel well, upon closer inspection I got a good wiff of burnt brake pad (I am familiar with the scent) and the hub cap on the wheel was really hot. I automatically assumed the caliper was ceased.
Later when I had free time took the wheel off removed the caliper from the wheel and everything looked fine. I was able to push the piston back in with ease using a C-clamp, but there was a lot of corrosion in and around the piston, I wire brushed it off and greased and cleaned everything up. I took it out since then on a few short trips to the store, everything seemed fine. Today however it happened again, and I began smelling burnt brake pad from the same wheel well. It only seems to happen when I have been driving it for a long time like 30mins to 1hr, short trips everything is fine. Is this the caliper or the Master cylinder? Due to the excessive heat around the wheel hub should i maybe think about replacing the inner and outer wheel bearings as well?
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I have been noticing a gas smell coming from the rear drivers side. There isnt any traces of gas on my garage floor. But I have noticed that I have been buying gas more frequently.
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When I slam on my brakes there is a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel and the smell of rubber. Also when I do a u-turn the same thing happens. I own a 1999 Honda accord v6....
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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Big trail of clear liquid on garage floor this morning. Truck is dripping on drivers side to rear of drivers side wheel well. Not brake fluid. Trans or antifreeze would have a color to it and a smell. None of that. Was quite humid last night and I did have truck out for about an hour run time. Trying to figure what the heck this is. Don't want to waste my or dealer service time if it's just AC moisture.
2016 f350 crew cab miles under 8k
Where the ac condensate drain is passenger or drivers side?
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What is that Burning Smell?
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I recently puchased a 2012 F-150 with the "ecoboost" engine. Recently I've been noticing an odor of what seems to be like rubber burning coming from the rear end of the truck.
It's very prominent when I stomp the gas pedal, with the traction control disabled especially. There's quite a bit of smoke coming from the rear, and the truck seems to over-accelerate for a V6. Should I take it to the dealer for repair?
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