Ford Excursion :: Brakes Not Working Completely?
Apr 14, 2012
Down hill toward intersection with light that turned red. I braked fairly hard and then all of a sudden, brake pedal goes to floor and I go through the light. I pump brake once or twice and still nothing. Luckily I made it through without hitting anyone and eventually stopped with emergency brake. Turns out the line to the rear brakes blew. It was probably weak and maybe the pressure from braking hard blew it. This was sudden. There was no warning whatsoever. Reservoir was empty and practically no brakes in the front. There was enough front brakes to keep the truck from idling forward, but that is it. I thought that I should have had full front brakes with a modern day master cylinder. Looks like Ford blew it with this one. Very dangerous design.
Is there an upgrade available? I never want this to happen again.
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Just noticed this tonight. While making a left turn, I had the blinker on and had the brakes applied and noticed the indicator on the instrument cluster was blinking. Once off the brakes, it took it a few seconds for it to resume blinking.
When I got home, I checked to see if the right signal did the same and it did. I also checked the rear lights and when the signal is on and the brakes are applied the light does not blink nor does it brighten up like they're supposed to when the brakes are applied, it stays dim as if both the blinker and brakes are off.
I did a quick search. I have not checked any of the bulbs or wiring, but I'm thinking it might be the turn signal switch/ lever. What the problem might be?
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I was driving my F2007 Ford Focus and all the lights on the dash went on and then all the power went off and the car stopped. Once it stopped, there was no way to get the power on and I couldn't switched gears. I guess I shifted into park once the car started freaking out and now it's impossible to switch to neutral. The only light on the dash that works is the anti-theft symbol, which seems to go on for a second when I turn the ignition on. It doesn't stay on solid.
From what I've googled, it seems like the car's computer got tripped into activating the car's anti-theft locking system? I'm not really sure. (I was driving the car while this happened -- scary!) But AAA towed the car to a random auto repair shop near my house. Should I be having a Ford dealership look at this? Or is it fine in the hands of a private repair shop? Timing couldn't be worse -- I was going to drive my car across country for a new job in two days, so I'm hoping this can be sorted quickly and my car will be safe to drive by then.
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My 2001 Excursion's 4x4 low and high do not work at all. Any chance it could be a simple issue? I bought the vehicle last spring and didn't notice any issues until it started to snow.
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Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
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My 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
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It has a 5.4 v8, and won't start. It started fine when I bought it and quit a few days later. It turns on with the key, but when the key is turned to start it doesn't turn over. (Doesn't click, goes completely silent)
I can jump the positive post on the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter and it turns over and starts right up. This leads me to believe the starter itself is okay.
I replaced the fender mounted starter solenoid. Did not fix the problem. I am thinking about replacing the starter itself as they are pretty cheap and come with the solenoid attached but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
Because it worked and quit so suddenly I feel like it is a component issue and not a wiring issue. But I could be completely wrong, and that is why I am here.
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I made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
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I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
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On my 2000 E-150, what is the thread for the wheel spindle, the one that holds the wheel bearings in place?
I had the outer wheel bearing completely shred yesterday, and I don't know if the threads were hurt yet as when I got home and the tow truck dropped it there, I didn't want to tear it apart. So I'm at work and would like to take a die home to chase the threads just in case.
Autozone's website has the spindle nut kit, but it shows:
Thread Size: 3/4-16 & M20-1.0
A machinist here tells me that they are not the same, so how do I know what I have?
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I tried oiling the hinge and installing a new wiper but it seems like the spring isn't strong enough.
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We've just towed our 2012 Prius as far as PA and found that the brakes are completely blown. What did we do wrong? Front wheels were up.
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I have had neuspeed p-flo intake on my Passat for about 2 months now and I still can't manage to get the brakes to completely stop vibrating. I know it keeps rubbing up against the master brake cylinder, but how I should put it/ anything I can do to fix it?
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2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
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I have a 2001 E350. The front HVAC completely stopped working, but still getting good air flow from all rear vents. Checked fuses, but not sure where to go next. Not sure if it could be the blower if rear vents still work. Have read that a vacuum leak would cause it to default to the defrost setting, but that isn't working either.
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I have the TyrolSport Brake Caliper stiffening kit on my R. My brakes were squeaking and I had not greased the pins in a bit so I thought that might be the issue. When I went to grease them, I notice one pin was completely loose. It was my driver front lower. I greased it and tightened it back up. That was maybe 2 -3 week ago. I checked again on Friday before my track day on Saturday and the same pin was lose. Not all the way like last time, but not locked tight. This one pin is the only one that seems to have issues. The other three are rock solid.
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The touchscreen for radio, navigation, etc. stopped working. Completely locked up. My truck is a 14 with less then 3000 miles.
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The brakes in my new '05 Treg are really, really touchy, especially when going super slowly (1 mph or less), or stopping completely. I find it almost impossible to bring the entire vehicle to a complete stop without the vehicle "jerking" backwards - if you know what I mean. It's almost like the brakes were being operated by an on/off switch. I got the "nothing can be done, that's how they all are" speech today from my dealer. Any solutions? Different brake pads, maybe?
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What is the common cause of brake light failure? I drive a 2005 F150 Lariat 4X4. When i started the lights flickered until they completely stopped working. To me it seems like a short, is there a specific, common place where a wire is not properly mounted or rubs on something?
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE XM (153K miles). The speedometer and odometer have quit working completely. The speedometer doesn't even move from zero, no bouncing around or anything. The odometer also is not logging miles. My transmission shifts gears just fine and the cruise control works as well. I bought an OBD-II scanner and no codes came up. My first thought was maybe the vehicle speed sensor, but everything I've found on that say the car will shift poorly and the speedometer bounces around.
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