Ford Excursion :: Brakes Hard To Push To Stop?
Mar 7, 2017
Ok, my brakes have felt the same since I got the truck. I push a little harder than I should have to (not a hard pedal, but further to the floor than normal to where it's harder to push) get the truck to stop. If I want to brake check someone that's riding my bumper I have to REALLY smash the pedal and even then it doesn't grab hard or lock up. Since I have owned the truck I have put all new pads, rotors, and calipers on, Russel braided lines front and rear (all 3 on the rear), and flushed ALL of the old fluid from the truck (Twitch and I went through 2 large bottles when we did the brakes).
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After all of this there has been no change in my brakes at all. Not one bit. What's odd is sometimes after it rains when I first get in the truck the first time I stop I get massive awesome brakes, but just the once. I never have a spongy pedal, and I never lose pressure, I just have brakes.
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I have a 98 Accord with rear disc brakes and ABS. The rotors on the rear brakes are rusted like the pads are not grabbing at all and when you push on the brakes you have to push really hard to get it to stop. I did tests for the booster to see if it is working and it seems to be. Right now I'm thinking it may be the proportioning valve.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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I bought my 2005 Turbo diesel awhile back, and I was having an intermittent problem with the brakes. If I have to suddenly stop, and hit the brakes, it feels like I didnt hit them at all. Sure, I stop, but only after 3-4 seconds of OH CRAP IM GOING TO HIT SOMEONE.
So I just had my truck in the shop, and they replaced my front rotors, turned back back rotors, and replaced all of the pads.
So, I figured that should fix the issue. Not so.
Tonight my daughter was in a car accident, and I was hurrying my way to her, and the light in front of me flipped yellow/red pretty quick. So I hit the brakes, and thought I was going to go right through the intersection..
When I hit the damned brakes, I need to freaking stop. Not keep moving and then slow down gradually. Scared the crap out of me multiple times now. One time I'm not going to be so lucky.
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When I hit the brakes hard on slick surfaces, the radio shuts off. Black screan, and all. Hit the power button, the clock lights up, hit the power button again, and than than it turns back on. Where to look?? I was thinking a weak alternator maybe.
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Just noticed this tonight. While making a left turn, I had the blinker on and had the brakes applied and noticed the indicator on the instrument cluster was blinking. Once off the brakes, it took it a few seconds for it to resume blinking.
When I got home, I checked to see if the right signal did the same and it did. I also checked the rear lights and when the signal is on and the brakes are applied the light does not blink nor does it brighten up like they're supposed to when the brakes are applied, it stays dim as if both the blinker and brakes are off.
I did a quick search. I have not checked any of the bulbs or wiring, but I'm thinking it might be the turn signal switch/ lever. What the problem might be?
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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Can get up to speed about 55-60 in my 2003 f250 6.0 4x4 truck and hit the brakes hard and the pedal gets hard almost like you cut the truck off and the truck doesn't stop well I can let off the pedal and hit it again hard and it works like it should. Also when it does this the power steering doesn't work. I was on an exit ramp and almost wrecked when I exited off the interstate I hit the brake pretty hard and couldn't steer I let off the brakes then hit them again and it worked fine and so did my steering. It would seem that the two are connected somehow. What's wrong?
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 140K miles on it. When I am going 60+ miles an hour and try to brake, the brakes shake. Or at least that is the best way I can describe it. It makes it hard to stop well when going fast, I have to release the brake and kind of pump them until the shaking is under control. What causes this? and what needs to be fixed? I wonder if it is the way I drive or just a normal occurrence?
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I drive a 2016 Golf TSI S and I am having this weird brake problem. Every time I try to modulate my braking, it would suddenly bite and brake hard then let go. It feels like the front and back brakes are not in sync or something. This happens when I am going slow or less than 20mph. Its really hard to slow down to a smooth stop especially in traffic when this happens.
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Wife just called on her way home from work and said the brakes grind when she pushes the pedal down. 08 with 39000. What am I in for and what kind of tools do I need? I'll pull off the wheels in the morning and take a look. Everybody seems to say the newer trucks go bad in the rear first,and she never uses the e- brake.
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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Wife drove her truck yesterday and not one issue... Today she has no brakes. I checked the fluid and I'm going to try and bleed the brakes but would like to know what else I need to check>
I was in her truck yesterday going to church.. so I don't get it. The brakes push all the way down to the floor.. When you pump them they seem to build pressure but loose it..
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