Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
View 12 RepliesI am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
View 9 RepliesI really enjoy my 2009 Smart car, excellent gas mileage, fun to drive too. The only drawback is all the dust coming off the front disc brakes that makes my front wheels look filthy even when the rest of the car is clean. Are there other brake pads that work as good as the factory originals yet don't give off so much dust?
View 4 RepliesMy front dust shield on the driver's side is falling apart and scraping against my rotor. On the passenger side the dust shield is long gone.
My question is do I need the dust shields? Is there any issues without having them?
In a perfect world I'd like to replace them, but I have a feeling that this is going to be one of those dealer only items that's severely overpriced.
Seeing as I have the passenger side shield missing, and I never noticed anything before hand I'm thinking this is an item that might not be necessary.
Driving at hwy speeds and head a pop noise in front end. Stopped and couldn't find anything, heard it a couple of more times, still nothing found, now I have a grinding noise left front wheel. What the issue may be. 2001 Ford EX 4X4.
View 6 Replies2002 Excursion Limited V10, 96k miles...
History - 3 of 4 calipers have been replaced, to include the caliper on the suspect wheel, along with new brake lines. On occasion, while driving, i can smell the brakes. It emanates from the right rear wheel. I'm reluctant to think it's the caliper. At this point I'm thinking the him needs replaced. Any reason for this too is, on occasion the ABS light will flicker on.
I'm uncertain as to the cause of this because of it's intermittent nature - both the brake smell and the ABS light. When the ABS light comes on, it only flickers on, but when it goes out, the speedometer will drop to zero and come right back up. The truck has an electrical ghost, I know. For that matter, the door ajar light is always on, and the codes say it's all four door sensors - it's not the sensors, and it's not the GEM.
More importantly, though, I need to figure out the issue in the right rear wheel.
The front brakes are pulsing (slightly, enough to spill my coffee when they line up together) with each rotation. I can't tell if they're warped, or if they have a rough patch on each disc.
View 9 RepliesSo my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
View 2 RepliesReplaced both rear calipers about 4 months ago, both were frozen. A few weeks ago I started getting some bad squeaking from the front brakes. The front calipers seemed fine when I did the rears.
Tonight I had even more fun with the beast. Drove to my sons baseball game and felt an odd "grinding" when braking. *Seems* to be coming from the front. On the way home, the grinding was worse and then the fun really started. Hit the brakes and the wheels started hopping enough to shake the whole friggin' truck. Leaving from a light, you could feel the brakes stick and then release, next stop was more shake n bake.
Not sure where to start on this one.
Just bought a 2001 v10 ford excursion limited with 127xxx miles. I have a few questions.
1. I can't get the front tires to rotate while parked and stepping on the brakes. I thought it was caused by the 35 inch BFG goodrich all terrian tires and a lift kit i dont know how tall but apparently i'm just a sucker. From the searches i did, i think the problem is that either the power steering or brakes doesn't have sufficient pressure to power both at the same time. what is the fix to this?
2. I found metal shaving in the rear differential. For lack of picture, the best i can describe it is that it looks like shaving off an ice block. Also, the fluid is gray and consistency of sludge. I searched and some said the shaving is normal and others said fix now. Which is it? I assume that the rear differential fluid needs to be changed.
I have a drag/click coming from my front wheel. I had thecaliper off so it was definitely in the hub assembly. I went ahead and greasedthe hub through the ABS sensor but the drag/click was still there. I amthinking it is either the wheel bearing or the axle bearing. My question is ifI lock the hub and the drag/click goes away does that mean it is the axlebearing? Also, is it possible the auto locking hub could be part of the problem?
By the way, my Ex has 130K on it and the 4x4 auto selectworks fine. There is no play in the hub and no noise that I can hear. The onlyreason I am digging into this is a drop in gas mileage that led me to find outthat both front wheels are very tough to rotate (with the front drive disengaged).
On my way home from work I was turning a corner and felt a pop / clunk from the front end through the steering wheel, and the steering wheel was no longer centered going in a straight line.
With the truck not moving, when I turn the wheel left and right, I can hear and feel a pop / clunk through the steering wheel. I'm assuming this is a ball joint failure?
I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
View 7 RepliesThe brake dust on my front rims seems next to impossible to remove. Truck is a 10 F150 4x4 Lariat. What are people using to remove this? I expect to get in and scrub, but don't want to damage the rims as well.
View 14 RepliesGoing down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
View 5 RepliesWell its been almost 2 weeks since I've had the Ex (has 103K miles). Planning on new V code springs, Bilsteins front and rear , and rear Hellwig bar going in this weekend. Once I see how that that works I may also upgrade the rear springs to B code.
When I had it up yesterday I noticed the front right wheel does not spin freely. I can hear what appears to be the brake pad dragging.
Right not everything wrong with mine seems very common:
- very poor ride, 3/4" clearance between the front bump stop and suspension
- 4 door locks don't work (that's after the suspension fix)
- drivers heated seat not working
This past week I changed out the front wheel bearing hub assemblys on both sides. I'm curious if completely disassembled one of the units? If so what did you use to get the large nut with the 4 notches in it off?
View 2 RepliesOverall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
I have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
View 14 Replies