I have an 02 Excursion, V10. It has the extension brake switch harness, with the fuses. I had a blown 2a fuse. I have a brake pressure switch, that is still open. Any better approach to the redundant switch. If not, I would like to know an updated switch part #, and is there any reason I could use key run, for the battery? Using a Bosch relay coils thru the switch, then battery to the cruise servo?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
View 14 RepliesAbout three weeks ago driving. My truck would not shift come to find out it was a fuse that blew. Well I pull over and replace the fuse it starts right up I get about a mile from my house and it blows again so I shut off my x and then replaced the fuse. Will not start...
Now I am getting a Pats code 1:6 and my obd2 reader says no link on my x. It used to read it all the time. I am trying to figure out what I can check to fix this problem are there any relays. Oh also my check engine light does not come on when I turn the key but my truck does crank. does this mean there is no power to my ECU. I did replace my ecu and it did not solve the issue.
I have a fuse blowing in my 98 Citation that is in the panel light/exterior running lights (front and back). Could the short be in the dimmer switch in the dashboard or is that unlikely?
View 2 RepliesI finally got around to trying to fix my inop cruise control. Did the self test and got a flash code 2, BPP switch. I replaced the switch but its still inop and still have flash code 2. Got my meter out and started checking system.
I found the fuse in the deactivation switch recall harness was bad. I removed the harness and plugged the two remaining connectors together and the cruise works. I returned home and unplugged so it wouldnt short out. The connectors are clean and no signs of fluid.
Says on jumper harness that the fuse isnt serviceable and to replace with 9F924 harness. Well the fuse is serviceable and the harness ohms out good. Is there a need to buy a new harness or would I be ok with a new 5 amp fuse?
I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
View 1 RepliesI have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
View 2 RepliesI was having intermittent fuel pressure problems. I replaced fuel pump and relay and was still having the problem. A figured out that wiggling the 20 amp fuse would cause the intermittent. Looking at the connections for the fuse, I can see one side was damaged. I figured I could pull the connector out from the back and fix the connector, but when I took the back off (see picture) I have a purple wire (labeled 1) going to one side of the fuse and a multi-connector (labeled 2) from one wire going to the other side. My luck, it's the multi-connector side that is damaged.
It Looks like the multi-connector goes to the Black and yellow wire. Instead of replacing the box, I figured I could just create an inline fuse for the fuel pump with the purple wire and splice it into the Black/yellow wire.
I can't see any problem with this, just looking for a second opinion. And I'm not sure how it would effect the relay. I can't find a fuse panel wiring diagram anywhere.
I need to replace, its either a brake pressure sensor or speed control deactivation switch . Would like to know which it is and can I get a generic one from other auto parts beside a ford dealer Can post a pic of part as soon as I figure out how to do that exactly. 2002 f250 super duty....
View 8 Replies1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
View 6 RepliesSo the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
View 1 RepliesThis is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
I noticed I was not shifting into 4x4 electronically and replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment. Now the 4x4 light goes on, but I don't think it is engaging the system...
The back end breaks free very easily, but there seems to be a little pull in the front. Is it possible to have unequal power to the wheels?
I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
View 4 RepliesMy 03 5.4 the obd2 port isnt working i have tried 4 bluetooth adapters and a snap on scanner and nothing will connect to the ecm. im having problems and trying to read codes my check engine light isnt on but that don't mean anything. my truck is running really rich and blows a little bit black smoke when i rev it up after its been idling a few min and getting horrible gas mileage again. yesterday i went to start it and i had to crank on it 4 time before it finally started and then when i reved it up it almost died on the way back down but it caught itself. then today i go out and it starts right up and runs fine but its still running rich but i still cant get an obd2 adapter to connect to the ecm. I checked the fuse and its not blown my cigarette plug and the power port both work. i really dont know where to start in trying to figure out this problem. Right now iI don't really want to take it to a shop right now.
View 4 RepliesAm i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
View 1 RepliesI just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
View 1 RepliesHorn isn't working found fuse blown. Replaced fuse and horn stays on. Swapped relays still stays on. With fuse out pressing left side of horn cover on steering wheel I can feel/hear relay click. Pressing right side not so much. What and where to check? Is there a way to disconnect the horn buttons on the steering wheel?
View 1 RepliesI drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......