Ford Excursion :: Brake Line From Front To Back Has Hole?
Jul 20, 2012
I have a 2000 ex v10 4x4 the brake line that goes from the front to the back has a hole in it and is rusted out. I need the part number?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 ex v10 4x4 the brake line that goes from the front to the back has a hole in it and is rusted out. I need the part number?
View 6 RepliesI am not sure if it is the high pressure or low pressure line. The line had rubbed on the frame and it wore a hole in the line. I want to get this fixed and wondered any remedies or if I need to replace the whole line. Someone said I could take it to a radiator shop and they could repair the line???
View 14 RepliesHow to replace a front brake line? I am having trouble getting mine off of the frame.
View 3 RepliesOn my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
View 14 RepliesHad a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
View 11 RepliesI think the top AC line that runs from the back of the compressor is leaking on my '01. It looks straightforward to replace, but I don't have any way to evacuate or recover the R134a refrigerant. Is this something that an AC place has to fix, or is there a way to do this on my own?
View 1 RepliesRoutine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac v-6. This truck has been the bane of my existence since I bought it back in September, but I finally fixed all of the issues I was having and it's been great. But, today I discovered that during the most recent work, the transmission cooler line ( Ford part # 7L2Z7890A) was left unsecured against the tensioner pulley. Needless to say, today a hole appeared that gushed tranny fluid everywhere.
I have two questions please- First, need to find the hose diameter so I can do a quick fix insert long enough to drive 1 hr. home? Second, I read online that there is a fluid fill point on the passenger side of the transmission case, is this correct and do I need to be aware of anything else to add enough fluid to safely drive the 80 miles home?
I haven't lost enough fluid that my driving is becoming sluggish and hesitant, but I can tell it is very low.
So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
View 3 RepliesDon't drive my R every day these days. Recently had to get it out and get it smogged when I noticed there is no AC. Turns out the aluminum AC line next to the radiator clip on the passenger side has a hole in it. It has been vibrating against a screw head which finally drilled a hole through the line.
I heard the "ticking in the dashboard" sound.
My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
View 2 RepliesI noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
View 1 RepliesSo I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesWhat is the easiseat way to add tranny fluid down the dipstick hole? That anle looks pretty hard to use a funnel.
View 10 RepliesSo this may be a really dumb question, but here goes. I have a new to me 2001 v10 gas 4x4 ex. It has obviously been lifted in the past. The springs seem totally shot as the back end is quite a bit lower than the front and drops dramatically while towing. I am adding a helwig and have a wd hitch but have not set it up yet. So my question is can i do the spring swap? It would seem that i would need to address whatever changes are made from the stock ride but im not sure. I like the current lift and would be fine keeping it and adding the lift from the new springs.
View 14 Replies1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
View 7 Replies2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.