Ford Excursion :: Brake Intermittent - Hard Pedal And Pulsing Feeling Randomly
Apr 23, 2014
I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
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I have a 2011 4 door and I drive it VERY LITTLE... I have a company truck so the car sits most of the time but when I get in it to drive on the weekends or whatever, sometimes when I hit the brakes it feels like they stick while depressing the pedal. Its nothing unsafe feeling just annoying and it forces me to kinda slam on the brakes. it seems to go away after I drive it a while, I have been attributing it to sitting so much but wanted to double check.
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The brake pedal on my Golf 4 GTI 132KW pulsates when I put my foot on the pedal going over uneven terrain without pushing the pedal in.
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I have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
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I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
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I bought 09 GX-470 4K miles ago..has 50K on it. Ran perfect when we bought it. wife said it started doing it 1 week later. I drove it and felt like warped rotors to me. replaced front rotors and pads with cheap wearever brand...I Know...I was sort of trouble shooting..did nothing ...did the back rotors and pads and seemed to fix it..did proper bed-in of new parts but, never checked at speeds above 55mph. recent trip got us up to speeds above 55... at these faster speeds when brakes are applied we get a nasty wheel wobble and a pulsing pedal...braking below 55 it feels fine.. thought's ?? last car was a 4runner which has the the same rotors and pads and never had a problem...could it be ABS ?? should I go with new oem rotors and pads ?
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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Installed the Riffraff gauge kit and the check engine light came on about 20 miles after install and the Ex now randomly has a hard jolting miss, just for a second then its gone. Took it about 4 or 5 times of the jolting miss then the check engine light came on.
Could something have been unplugged or could the manifold air intake heater delete be causing the light. Ran fine until the gauge install. I remember reading something about the ground for the manifold air intake heater being a issue if not care full. I could not get the dam thing off so tapped the end and left it. The ground post kept spinning not allowing the ground to come loose. This thing is becoming a pit I cant feed fast enough.
If I can figure this out before Monday that would be great. If not I am tired of dicking with it and am just going to take it in. Don't have a scanner that will read the codes so SOL there. Unless there is some way to get them off with a flashing light sequence. I would love to find out how to do that. I don't want to drive it anymore than I have to as if one more thing goes wrong with this dam thing........
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I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx that randomly dings and shows me the battery light.
It usually happens when going uphill or during really hard accelerations.
It is also showing OBDII code P0621.
The car has no other issues. Always starts, always runs well.
What causes this problem? Where should I start looking? I'm thinking it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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The vehicle is a 2000 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. I have never owned a diesel before....
First issue is that I have developed a hard start. It started last Saturday, and went from sporadically starting hard, to starting hard every time. I have 146,000 miles on her. She cranks strong, but will not turn over the first time, sometimes takes 2, 3, or 4 times. (Foot on gas pedal) I don't know if it's an issue of not getting enough fuel or what. Occasionally, even after she starts, it's very rough (shaking the whole vehicle, and acting like she wants to die) until I rev the engine and she smoothes out. After she smoothes out, there is no problem with wanting to drive, she's strong. If I kill the ignition, and start up immediately, she starts the first time, it's only after 10 minutes or so of being off.
My next issue is a clunking noise when I press the gas pedal. I don't know if it's the tranny, because she shifts pretty smooth for the most part, doesn't miss gears, etc. I could be travelling say 50MPH, press the gas pedal very little, and I can hear the clunking, and actually feel it every time I press it. (Don't have to be mashing the pedal, happens on very light presses as well).
I have the TS Performance 6 position chip, otherwise she's stock. I tow roughly a 7000 travel trailer every couple of weeks, never any problems before this.
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Got stuck in the sand pits today. While trying to get out by going forward and back. I always get the front end starts bouncing hard. I always let off. Is this wheel hop or axle wrap?
Whatever it's called. How do I minimize this. It's a shame to have all that power and not be able to lay it down.
2002 excursion 4x4 7.3 l all stock.
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
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My truck is experiencing a hard to press brake pedal. It comes and goes and does not seem to happen at any one time while driving. I know that my truck uses a vacuum pump and instantly replaced this as I figured that with the age of the truck it should be done. However even with a new vacuum pump it did nothing to correct my problem with a hard to press brake pedal. I inspected all the lines to ensure that they are holding pressure and replaced two of the three with new lines. Again it still did nothing to correct the issue. I do not have any leakage coming from the master cylinder and no hiding noise from the brake booster.
1996 F250 7.3l Diesel Turbo 270,000 miles Manual Transmission
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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