Ford Excursion :: Brake Felt Soft - Metallic Smell?
Apr 18, 2016
It is around 90 today in Seattle, and I was on the last leg from Downtown to my house. (hour plus drive with traffic). I did stop for about 30 min to run a quick errand, but then I jump back in the Ex and headed down the local hill, when all of the sudden my brakes no longer felt "grippy." The peddle was solid, but the brakes felt soft/slippery. I nursed it the last mile home, without incident. I did notice a metallic smell, but could not figure what wheel it could be coming from. All four brakes were hot enough that a quick splash from the hose immediately boiled off...
All fluids are full.
These are brand new discs, calipers and pads, all less that a month old and greased with the manufacture (Power Stop) provided grease.
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I got the attached warning today on my 2010 LS600. The pedal felt a little soft after the warning. It kept popping off and on, dinging every 30-40 seconds.
I checked the brake fluid, it was full. Car has 36k
I had it towed in to Lexus and they couldn't get the warning to come back up.
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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Purchased new 2012 Ford F350 to haul slide in camper. When I step on the brakes they go 3/4 of the way down. If I pump again, they go 1/4 of the way down (normal). Brought this to Ford dealer, they test drove the vehicle and admitted I had a problem with the brakes. They told Ford and Ford faxed a letter stating they are aware of this issue and there is nothing they can do about it. Stated this is a "soft braking pedal problem" with some of the 2011 and 2012 Ford trucks.
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I just picked up an 01 V10 Limited 4x4 and one thing I noticed is the drivers side running board has a very soft spot right where I step to get in. It seems solid both forward and behind that area. Any suggestions for reinforcing the stock runingboards?
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I'm cleaning my mother's 91K mile 2003 Camry LE while she is out of town. The interior has a horrible and somewhat strong metallic smell that after some work I've eliminated the smell from the interior fabrics but it comes back after a while when you are driving with the AC on. It's 100 degrees here now so it's on high all the time. Then when I park the over night, no smell anymore until you use the car again and it doesn't come back immediately. I did a evap core clean with Klima-cleaner foam and used a febrese like product on the headliner, seats, carpets. I'm also using a clip on fan and some odor absorbing products while the car sits in the garage. The cabin filter has been out of the car during these processes but a new is installed now.
What can be done about this smell?
Other then that smell: The interior is in great shape and needs very little cleaning. Typical for a retired person's car.
The paint is the worst part of this car, dull and slightly oxidized but my test on the hood with my Flex Polisher and HD Uno (after washing with dawn and claying) means I won't have to make too many passes with the buffer to get it ready for a couple of coats of Duragloss sealant.
The engine looked pretty dirty but cleaned up easily to almost new looking. I changed the spark plugs, air filter and put on some Bosch ICON wipers. I'm not even sure if mom drives in the rain anymore.
The tires are 7.5 years old and dry rotting so bad you can barely read the brand and model, they are Michelin but I'm not sure which one. I'll get a new set of Michelin Premier AS's put on next Saturday.
I did order some new speaker grills for the rear deck. I had to scrape the black stuff off the inside of the edges of the glass and I conditioned all the seals with Wurth Rubber Care but I'm pretty sure that living in Texas the black on the glass is just part of Toyota life??? I don't own a Toyota myself and none of my 4 cars have this kind of issue (or the AC smell).
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I have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
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In the last week the I've noticed a moldy metallic smell when I turn my ac on. I've tired to come up with what I would liken it to. Almost as it the ac hadn't been turn own in months or it was almost out of freon. It's only a month old so I wonder what it might be.
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I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
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I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
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I was driving around running errands when my AC stopped blowing cool air, a funny kind of "metallic" burning smell was coming from the engine, and there was a slight knocking noise that was apparently coming from the engine and would go faster as I accelerated.
My car is still under warranty so I know stuff will be covered. My question is : what the heck is going on with my Santa Fe? I need to know whether I should call into work or drive it anyways.
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 that developed an odd problem almost two years ago that no mechanic I've taken it to has been able to find and fix, and I and my more car-savvy friends haven't had any luck with either.
About maybe 50% of the time when I sharply turn left (only left, never right) the brake pedal goes "soft" and the vehicle's braking power drops dramatically (but not entirely). Because of the sharp angle required to make this happen, and the low speeds I have to be moving at to even handle that sharp of a turn with this vehicle, this has only ever happened when I pull into a parking spot, and the vehicle still manages to come to a complete stop safely before being in danger of hitting anything. It never ever happens at any other time, and brakes like a champ normally.
I've had numerous other issues with the brakes in this vehicle in the last two years, all of which I've fixed. This one eludes me and every mechanic I've taken it to, though. I've replaced both calipers, both rotors, the brake pads, bled all four brake lines, and had the ABS control unit and ABS motor replaced.
At the time the issue first appeared, I had two damaged calipers caused by shoddy brake pads disintegrating on me (almost new, barely worn, but covered in pockmarks, looked like a Michigan road) and clogging up the calipers. That caused the vehicle to lurch to a halt with screeching tires if I so much as barely tapped the brake pedal. Replacing the calipers and brake pads fixed that issue, but did not fix the soft pedal issue when turning left. I ended up with the same screeching sudden stop problem recently when the ABS module went bad, replacing it fixed that, the brake pads and calipers are still in good condition, and replacing the ABS did not fix the soft pedal issue.
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Got Elantra GT 6 month ago. Good car, but it seems I have a very common problem of Elantras - lost of brakes. My car has TCS, but no ABS. It started 4 month ago. Car is fine for several weeks, but then within two days brake pedal getting from bad to worse. My mechanic already replaced master cylinder and right rear caliper. Did not work. Yesterday it was third time when I almost (very soft pedal) lost brakes. Today in Hyundai dealer service they bled the brakes and said "that they hope it will work". Their mechanic found air in both (left and right) rear brake lines. So, my question if I have a leak in, say, left line will it propagate to the right line? I am asking because I do not know the hydraulic schema of the brakes and want to collect as much info as possible.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Durang. 105k miles.
Brake pedal is real soft goes pretty far down (close to floor) before brakes kick in.
Check front disc pads and rear shoe pads, both look good. Fluid level is good. Bleed brake lines.
Pump brakes up when car is off, pedal is real firm till I turn car on an push on brake pedal right to the floor.
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I have an 07 v6 SE with 220k on the clock. Recently switched out my rear pads with no problem, but still had a small shake under braking - so tonight we pulled the front wheels off and switched the front pads and rotors out - did an oil change while it was there.
On it's first test drive - there's something wrong. The brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and is SUPER soft. It still stops. If I mash the pedal, the car will come to a sharp stop - testing on some sandy roads, the front brakes are definitely working - but the front pedal travel is WAY more than it was prior to the pad/rotor maintenance.
We ran out of light, so tomorrow we're going to get some new fluids and flush the system in case we got air in it.
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My B6 purchased exactly three weeks ago has had a soft brake pedal since day one. By "soft," I mean that when parked with the engine running and applying moderate pedal pressure, the brake pedal provides some resistance but sinks to the floor. If I pump it up a few times, it temporarily gets much firmer, but eventually sinks to the floor again after a few seconds. Now the car so far has never failed to actually stop, and it can get into the ABS. But during an abrupt (okay...panic) stop last week, it did go to the floor while the car was still moving. That's when I decided that was enough and took it back to be serviced.
My expectation was that there was just a small amount of air in a line somewhere, and that they could bleed the system and fix it. That was my experience with my B5: it was very sensitive to the least little bit of air, and if it wasn't thoroughly bled after brake service the pedal often got mushy and could find the floor. But bleeding them always get the pedal back to normal. So the service advisor said that he "had the service manager drive [my car] and compare it to a new Passat [on the lot] and talked to "Quality Tech. Manager to confirm." And the confirmation was that my brake system is "working as designed." In short, they say the brakes are working properly and there is nothing to fix. So I have now picked up the car and it still does the same thing.
Now I can (and will) bleed the brakes on my own over the weekend. But I would like feedback from others as to whether or not their brake pedals regularly see the floor. I just can't see this being the way any hydraulic brake system should work..
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 V6.
For over a month I have had a soft brake pedal. For those that may not know what that is, I push my brake pedal down 3/4 of the way, and I'll finally feel the brakes catch; however, I cannot stop quickly. I have had to use the Sports Mode to slow down my car many times.
I brought it to my local mechanic and he has done the following:
1) he thought it might have been the master cylinder, so he replaced it. he checked the old master cylinder and found nothing wrong.
2) bled the brake system a couple of times, but it still came back
3) brought my car to the local dealer to drain the ABS system. The problem still came back.
I waited over an hour as the dealership's service department checked out the car. Someone finally came to me and said they checked the lines and they are not leaking, so it has to be the master cylinder. I told the guy that it's a brand new cylinder, and when the mechanic looked at the old one, he said there was nothing wrong with it. All he could say was it's not the lines, it's the cylinder. If I had the problem before & after the master cylinder was replaced, & nothing was wrong with the original master cylinder, how is it the master cylinder?
I called my local mechanic on my way home from the dealership and told him what happened. He said he was going to do some research, mentioned something about replacing something with the ABS and he would call me today.
I searched the forums for brake issues and saw something about cracked ABS rings. Could that be an issue? Could it be something else?
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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