Ford Excursion :: Blinking Interior And Exterior Lights / Clicking Noise From Dashboard When Open The Door
Aug 8, 2016
I have my Ex parked in the driveway, as the weather has been nice and I've been taking my motorcycle everywhere.
I went to get something out of it the other day... Opened the door and it sounds like I've left the hazards on... There's a clicking coming from the dashboard and the overhead lights, and running board lights blink. If I shut the door, it stops.
Do I need to call in a priest?
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Is there any way to keep the interior lights and running board lights from coming on when you open the doors, really would like to keep them off all the time.
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Truck is a 2000 Excursion, V10 4x4 auto about 160k miles. Tried searching couldn't find anything relevant The problem is it wont start, not even a solenoid click, and the interior lights are blinking as if they were hooked to the turn signals (steady blinking and you can hear/feel the relay in the fusebox clicking). Turning on the key, hazard flashers or headlights makes the blinking go away, turning them back off starts it up again.
The blinking also effects the power windows (the windows go up about 1 inch at a time in time with the blinks). Hitting the panic button on the keyfob causes the horn to go off very faintly in time with the blinking. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were all fine, the #1 and #2 position relays (the ones in the fusebox) are clicking in time with the blinking. The truck started doing this suddenly and with no warning (no dead batteries, jump starts or anything recently).
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The interior lights on my '03 X do not turn on when any of the doors are opened. All of the lights work when the dimmer switch is flipped and when the individual switches are flipped on. The lights also turn on automatically when ignition is turned in the off position after running. Where should I begin to look to get this resolved?
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When the rear window was up, the interior lights stayed on. I couldn't find the valet switch to depress/turn them off. How can I turn off the interior lights while the back window is open? I have only had the Excursion for a month so I am still figuring it all out.
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Looking for a process to have the interior lights 'shut off' with the doors open?
I do a lot of camping, and having the doors open with the music playing is a real nice feature of my truck (2007 F-150 Super Crew 4X4), vut the fact that every internal light stays on just beats the heck out of the battery.
I would love to know if there is something that can be done to have them 'dim off' after the doors have stayed open for a certain amount of time.
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I have a 2005 Excursion V10 4WD Eddie Bauer edition. Within the past month I have noticed that the interior dome lights and running board lights don't always come on when I open the doors. The dimmer switch is set to the highest level without being turned on and all of the dashboard lights work. I turn the dimmer switch on and sometimes the interior lights work and sometimes they don't. The door switch seems to be in good shape as well. If I turn the dome lights on individually they work so I know that there is not a problem with the bulbs. Where I can look for the problem?
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Two nights ago I got into the truck at night and realized the interior lights don't come on. I tried the rocker switch it will only dim the dash gauges now. It did work before guessing its a bad rocker switch. I can turn them on manually front and back....
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Did a search and read the manual and I cant seem to turn of the dome lights when I open the doors. For example... Sometimes my daughter falls asleep and I want to open the door at night without the lights coming on... Or If the mosquitoes are going crazy I might want to turn off the light so I don't get killed... I know I can hold the switch to the right and it turns lights on with doors closed, and hold for a second to the left to turn off. But what about opening the door? I know my old 2007 was able to do this function...
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I just got myself 07 santa fe. Have small problem though. When I open the door interior lights are not going on, doesn't matter which door are open it is not working but I can turn them on manually, so fuse is fine I guess. What my be a cause of it?
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1 weird problem.... when I open either door, only 2 light on top of the mirror light up, but the rear one right beside the handle is not lighting up.
I play with the button at the side, it's only ON/OFF. no door option like the front....how can I make all of them light up when door open?
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When I open the driver's door, the car does not register that the door is open: the dome light and other interior lights don't come on, the red alert light inside the door itself doesn't come on, and sometimes my alarm will go off when I start the car because it does not know that the door has been activated properly. When the passenger door is open, all the lights function properly. I'm thinking this is a fuse? Hopefully a simple fix?
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For the last couple of days my interior lights are not turning on until I open the drivers door. My Coming Home and Leaving Home functions are turned off due to the HID Headlights, but the interior lights worked fine since the HID installation in 11/13. It is a 2013 Passat SE 2.5. Is there a setting in VCDS for the interior light function.
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When I open the driver door at night, the brake pump would dim the interior lights a little while running. Is this normal for a 6 month-old aux battery? All my trips are 30 mins or longer so it has plenty of opportunity to recharge.
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I have not driven the F in awhile and had to jump start the car due to dead battery. Afterwards I noticed that whenever I was driving the interior and exterior lights would flash every couple of seconds and the power steering light was on. Do I need to take it to the shop? Drive it around so the batter would juice up more?
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I first thought it was just a cold thing, but now it's not starting at all in a warmed garaged. The electrical system seems to go in and out, makes this crazy clicking kind of noise, and eventually will make the dashboard lights go entirely, the message system saying then the breaks have failed, pull over, etc., On a cold morning it won't crank, and when it finally does it will immediately shut off. Once I finally overcome it, the electrical system clicks and clicks, and eventually will lose dashboard lights and functions... no turn signal, nothing.
If I can get driving for 15 minutes or so without the electrical interference happening, it will run fine like normal and I can restart the car fine the rest of the day... but the next morning (especially if cold) I go through the process again.
Now it's just not cranking at all...it's clicking, but it sounds like a louder clicking than a dead battery... it's like the electrical system is overriding it entirely and won't let me get the car started at all.
Other symptoms: when I get the key near the ignition (not putting it in) the clicking of the electric system starts. Interior lights flicker, etc. Today it won't start.
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I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
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My 2003 Camry's battery was drained this morning and there was a rapid clicking noise. Upon further investigation, the clicking noise was in two places, a large red relay under the hood and also inside the car. The open door indicator was flashing rapidly in step with the clicking noise. The clicking stopped when I inserted the key into the ignition but it would not start.
I first tried removing the door open fuse but there was no change. I then removed the relay and the ECU-B fuse and all clicking stopped.
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I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
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My front interior light/map lights combination does not come on when the doors open. The rear seat and cargo area lights work when the doors open. Do the front interior lights are not designed to work in conjunction with the other lights when the door is opened?
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I wanted to know what do you use to clean the interior of your GX? For example the wood, the chrome parts, the display, the plastic around the door switches? I am using the Meguiars Gold Leather spray for the leather which is doing a decent job, but I don't know what's best for the dashboard and the other parts.
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