Ford Excursion :: Big Click And Truck Went All Dead - Loose Battery Connection
Mar 6, 2016
My husband was kindly pulling the Ex into the garage for me. I drove it around town today. He came in and He said he pulled it in and turned it off. Then went back to turn it on to pull it in a little farther. When he tried to restart it there was a big "CLICK" and it went all dead. He said the theft light briefly flashed after everything else went dead. Also, aux power such as cig lighters still work. Could it be a fuse?
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I changed the battery in my key fob recently. Since then the car has randomly given me "key not detected" signals. At these times, the door lock/unlock buttons don't work either.
When it does, I open it and push the battery around, trying to make it connect, close the fob back up, and it works for some apparently random amount of time. So my best guess it that there's a loose connection to the battery.
If so, have you found a cure, such as the right place to wedge in something small to make the connection secure? Anything else?
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Rookie move. The battery went dead on the excursion so I nabbed one out of my Focus so I could just move the beast to another parking spot. Long story short, the battery's design was exactly the same, aside from the polarity on the posts. I didn't check and now I'm not getting a response from the vehicle at all. No lights, no clicks, nothing.
I'm assuming I blew a fuse, and possibly fried the PCM. Where to start? I'm not sure which fuse I'm looking for, as none of the diagrams have a "main fuse" listed.
The details: 2000 Excursion, V10 6.8.
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i have a 2003 with v10 limited excursion its 4x4 has new battery in it also when parked on level groundi have no issues and when parked with the front end down i have no issues. however when i park the truck with the front end up in the air. example when parking in driveway about 30 to 40 degree angle with the nose up. the battery will go dead after sitting for just one day
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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I have a 2000 Silverado Z71 with a 4.8 and Auto Trans. Here lately if the truck sits for more than a day with out being cranked the battery is dead. Put a new battery in last July. When i put a meter on it the Alt. shows 14 volts out put. once it is cranked it will start every time with no problem.
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2013 Prius c, 59,xxx miles ....
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VAD mobile scan sporadic connection. The camera would go in and out sometimes while backing like a loose connection. Now it does not operate at all. Is there a harness that travels through a hinged location? I'm going to rescan as soon as my Palm is charged.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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Inconsistent connection through 7 wire plug and no taillights on four wire plug.
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My truck trailer connection has no power to the + pin, called the Trailer Tow Battery Charge. I traced back to the fuses and relays and discovered the relay missing. Unbelievably Ford is having a hard time with this relay. They don't seem to be sure which one it is. My owner's manual says it is a Full ISO relay. But Ford doesn't like that description.
What can I use there? Is there any after market relay available that would fit. Napa said they don't have anything listed, and O'Reilly and Autozone look at me with a stupid expression. I also need one for the starter relay. Mine was replaced with a anti theft device that has a remote control. I want that removed so I need the realy.
All the relays appear to be the same. I plugged in the blower motor relay in the trailer tow charge position and got power to the + pin. But I need the blower motor. The Ford guy said that it might be the right one, but he couldn't be certain and if I plug it in and it doesn't work it's my loss.
This is for the 2006 F-150, 4.6l truck.
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I have a 2003 Taurus wagon (a real babe magnet) that has 63K on it. On random occasions recently, I turn the key to start it and there is dead silence--no groans, no clicks, nada. This happened for the second time last week at a tire shop, and the technician had me hold the key in the start position while he tapped the starter with a metal rod, which worked miraculously. He showed me where the starter was and how to perform this miracle. Unfortunately it is a two-person job, and I was stranded the next evening alone at my house, and missed work the next day. Later that day it started right up like nothing had happened.
It stranded me again two days later, and nice lady in the parking lot held the key in start position while I used my cane to tap the starter as I had been shown. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem and my temporary solution, hoping they would know from this exactly how to fix it. After four days, they said they could not duplicate the problem, that the car started right up every time they tried it. Meanwhile the car I had borrowed from a friend broke down in a busy intersection, stranding me again for a short while. I went back to the dealer and brought the Ford home, figuring there isn't much to do but play the odds....Logic suggests that because tapping the starter seems to get it to go, that the problem must be in the starter. Yet the guys at the dealership wouldn't touch anything until the car refused to start for them. Where does one go (or in this case, possibly not go) from here?
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B5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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The problem occurs intermittently... about once every few months. The hand brake would be loose (no click) pulling the handle up to engage. If I pull the handle up and down many times, somehow it would return to normal.! I searched my Bentley manual but didn't see any page about the hand brake mechanism. Passat 2002, 1.8t...
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After installing new battery, I have no functioning air conditioning or heating system. When I select the climate button I get a message (check connection to air condition). What is going on?
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I had my car battery replaced about three months ago and when it was replaced they put those little anti-corrosion felt pads at the base of the terminals as well as anti-corrosion grease. My positive terminal would never maintain a secure connection so I removed the felt pad and replaced the terminal connection. Now my only problem is whenever it is very cold outside and I try to start the car, I lose power instantly as soon as the starter is about to engage. I always have to twist the positive terminal back and forth a couple times, listening to the crunching sound of the anti-corrosion grease, and power is restored.
Is there any brand of grease I can use that won't cause this issue? Yes, I have removed the terminal, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with another pouch of the cheap stuff at the autozone counter and that didn't work. There is no corrosion buildup on the terminals but I've consistently had the problem for the past few months.
I know Honda had a recall on ignition switched a while ago, and they replaced mine, but I'm not sure if there is any direct connection since my daily fix involves me manipulating the battery terminal to get the car started. 2003 Accord EX ...
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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I have a 2006 GS300. Changed out the battery today, and immediately after the AC quit working. Pushing the climate control button reveals the message "Check the connection of the air conditioner".
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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